The Heart of the Heart of the Country
In another essay exploring the boundaries of
traditional beliefs and the modern world, Nicolas Rothwell has written an
epitaph of mystery and magic for Yulparija artist Spider Kalbybidi, who took up
the brush in Bidyadanga a few years ago to paint for Emily Rohr ("In the Shadow of Modernity," The
Australian, December 13, 2008). Kalbybidi was a maparn, a "clever man" who
was in touch with the spirits that stalked the ancestral country of the
Yulparija. Despite having left that land decades ago, the Yulparija have not
lost their fundamental beliefs and their connection to the animating force of
the landscape (see my post, "Strong Law in the Desert," April 16,
2006).Eight months ago, Kalbybidi
disappeared from Bidyadanga without apparent warning. His tracks and those of
his two dogs petered out quickly, and there was much consternation about what
might have happened to the old man. Our western sensibilities would worry about
an old man subject to exposure in the harshness of the desert, but the Yulparija
had other concerns. Rothwell's recounting of the tale is a fine exposition of
the physical and metaphysical search for Spider's fate, compounded of equal
parts of Indigenous logic and Rothwellian
romanticism.The story of the
Yilparija's exile and return to their country around the Perceval Lakes was
exquisitely documented recently in the film Desert Heart (Rebel
Films, 2007), which premiered on ABC in March, 2008. Like Painting Country, the 2000 documentary about
the return of artists from Balgo to country they had not seen for many years,
Desert Heart records an extraordinarily emotional odyssey. What gives
Desert Heart extra poignancy is the fact that the journey was organized
and the film is narrated by the equally extraordinary young painter Daniel
Walbidi: the desert heart of the title is not simply that of the Great Sandy; it
is also Walbidi's.Walbidi was born in
coastal Bidyadanga many years after the old people walked away from the desert
to settle in the LaGrange Catholic mission. Having learned the stories of his
country from these old people, he became determined to preserve them and thus
took himself to Broome and to Rohr's Short St Gallery, ushering in a new school of
Aboriginal artwork, unique in its visual imagery that combines the stories of
the desert with a saltwater aesthetic (see "Matters of Representation", April 2, 2006). But
Walbidi had never seen the country himself, and painted it only from hearing the
stories the oldies told him.The old
people themselves, including Kalbybidi and the more well known women painters
like Weaver Jack and Alma Webou, had spent forty years in LaGrange, not knowing
what had become of the land the drought forced them away from. For them,
knowing that their fathers were gone, never to return, the sense of time
slipping away was acute, a compounding sense of loss and
sorrow.So when the caravan of vehicles
sets out from Bidyandanga for the four-day journey back to Wirnpa, the ladies
are glowing with excitement, especially after they reach Punmu and take on Mukki
and Wooka Taylor, the last two old men who lived at Wirnpa, who can now guide
the party past the end of the road to the waterholes where these artists played
as children.The arrival at Wirnpa is a
marvelous homecoming. The artists cut branches to help them announce their
approach to the waterhole where Wirnpa, the great snake, still lives. Striding
single file across the grassy landscape, they arrive at the waterhole itself,
sheltering under a copse. There is great agitation as the women sit at the
edges of the depression in the ground, softly keening and wiping away their
tears. One of the Taylor brothers walks down into the waterhole and confirms
that Wirnpa is still there. "He's woken up," the old man reports, "Wirnpa stuck
his head up, he's crying." Weaver Jack replies, "My country. I have come back
here alive." It's an exquisite
moment.After their first day in
country, and after overcoming the strong emotions of the return, the artists sit
down to paint, and the black-primed canvases are soon a riot of color, dominated
now by the white of the salt lakes. But soon another expedition is launched, as
a helicopter arrives to take Weaver Jack and her son Wokka and grandson Terence
out to Lungarung. They walk through the scrub, near the edge of a large
saltpan, until Weaver is overcome and sits down, weeping. "I've been worried
about this water of mine." Back at Wirnpa and at work on another painting of
the lake at Lungarung she judges "Now I'm happy, no more worrying about these
waterholes. I've got to sit down now. That's good I saw it, all the jila. ...
I've become satisfied for all my countries." And though it is a moment of
peace, resolution, and some joy, there is also an inescapable undercurrent of
sadness, of finality, of a life and a work
completed.Apart
from
this extraordinary exercise in storytelling, the DVD of Desert Heart features a
gallery of extras that is actually worth watching. Still photographs of the
journey itself and a gallery of paintings by all the artists involved (including
Walbidi's spectacular new works based on his first-hand encounter with the
country) are fine additions to the feature. Emily Rohr speaks briefly in an
on-camera interview about the artists and their work, but the two most moving
extras provide a fascinating historical
perspective."Contact Stories (Before
Whitefellas)" offers a blend of archival footage from Film Australia with first
person reminiscences, largely by Mukki and Wooka Taylor. The stories are
somewhat familiar--the first encounter with airplanes, the lure of the mission
and the fear of being trapped there--but the subtle warmth of the storytellers
makes them engaging, and the the archival footage in skillfully integrated.
Towards the end of "Contact Stories" Margaret Baker is
introduced.Baker was a nurse who
worked at Bidyadanga for over a decade, starting in 1963 at around the time the
Yulparija walked in from the desert. It is she who narrates the second
historical short, "Mission Life." Her delight in having worked at the mission,
her obvious affection for the people she met as they came out of the desert, and
her good, common sense are a winning combination that effectively complements
the story the Taylors tell. Desert
Heart brings a freshness, immediacy, and vigor to a story that has been told
many times in many ways in recent years as filmmakers have attempted to peer
into the origins and meaning of Aboriginal art. What makes this film unique is
its narration by one of the artists: Walbidi's gentle, understated voice gives
the film its sense of authenticity and sincerity. Walbidi has been an ardent
and articulate spokesman for his people for nearly a decade now. In one of the
central scenes of the film, there is a young boy who is perhaps eight years old
painting with all the other artists in the camp at Wirnpa following their
encounter with the old snake. With luck Walbidi will be the link between the old
people of this film and those, like that young boy, who can carry the tradition
forward.
Posted: Sun - December 14, 2008 at 04:05 PM
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Readings, reviews, and reflections by an American observer of Australian Indigenous art, culture, politics, anthropology, music, and literature.
If you don't wish to leave comments on the blog itself please fee free to contact me directly. Will Owen
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Published On: Mar 22, 2009 09:10 AM
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