LEON to RABANAL DEL CAMINO   <MAP>

I climbed slowly all the way to Astorga, which is a beautiful city. It has a magnificent Cathedral, and, when I wandered in, a choir with soprano soloist was practicing. (It was a Saturday). When I left, I went into the museum next door for a sello. Upon exiting the museum, it turned out that the choir practice had been for a wedding, and I had arrived back in front of the Cathedral just in time for the bride's arrival.

Astorga's clock tower is rung by two clockwork statues dressed in the clothing of the mule drivers (Maragatos) for which the town was famous.

Past Astorga, I stopped in Castrillo de los Polvazares as I was not sure which road to take to get to Rabanal del Camino. Castrillo de los Polvazares turned out to be a village of totally restored Maragato buildings. It's a national monument. From El Ganso (the next village you come upon) to Rabanal del Camino it's uphill all the way, and I saw a steady stream of pilgrims on foot.

The road into Rabanal del Camino is quite steep. I am now convinced that every town in Spain is at the end of an uphill climb.

Rabanal del Camino is clearly the beneficiary of the numbers of pilgrims who come through town. It is the logical jumping-off point for the highest point of the Camino. There are two Refugios, and a couple of other places to stay. My hotel, the Posada del Gaspar, is quite charming, and they let me keep my bicycle locked up on a terrace next to the bar.

I walked around town for a bit, visiting the Refugio run by the British Confraternity of St. James. Back at my hotel, I was writing in my journal when Ivan showed up. We went to the other Refugio where we met up with Nuria and a couple from Vitoria, Luisa and Oscar. I also met some hilarious retired soldiers from Finland.

Everything was fine until I awoke at 2:00. There was a fiesta in the hotel bar featuring really loud disco music. A typical Saturday night in Rabanal, I guess.

6:54 total time. 3:55 on bike. 70.4 km