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CHAPTERS
HISTORY
BEFORE I LEFT
ITINERARY >>>
01 Roncesvalles to Estella
02 Estella to Santo Domingo de la Calzada
03 Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Burgos
04 Burgos to Carrion de los Condes
05 Carrion de los Condes to Leon
06 Leon to Rabanal del Camino
07 Rabanal del Camino to Villafranca del Bierzo
08 Villafranca del Bierzo to Portomarin
09 Portomarin to Santiago
10 Santiago de Compostela
PRACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS
BICYCLE STUFF
LINKS
PEOPLE I MET

CARRION DE LOS CONDES to LEON   <MAP>

Same terrain as yesterday. Flat, (good!) no wind, (good!) hot. (Not so good!) In the morning, I met two Canadian cyclists, and while chatting, managed to step on my sunglasses. The road paralleled the walking Camino for a while, so I saw a fair number of pilgrims. There are more pilgrims, in general, than I had guessed there would be. The Camino must be pretty jammed up during the summer.

At Sahagun, I ran into all of the cyclists with whom I've been travelling. I had coffee with the Dutch couple, the Nikkens, who've ridden from Holland. Ivan and Nuria had stopped so Ivan could get some sunblock.

From that point on - all the way to Leon - I was pretty much alone, but made good progress. The road is fairly straight and boring. And it's hot and dusty. I stopped in Mansilla de las Mulas for a Sello, but the Refugio and Tourist office were closed. So on through industrial suburbs to Leon.

I had decided that crossing the upcoming mountains would be too hard with the gearing on my bike. On the way into the center of Leon, I happened to ride by a bike store, and stopped to get a larger rear cassette (32 tooth versus the 24 tooth that came on the bike). The owner laughed at how small it was. Got that, and a new chain, and ultimately a new rear derailleur, as the one that came on the bike couldn't handle the larger cassette.

I stopped at the tourist office near the Cathedral for a Sello, then checked in to my hotel. I'm staying at the Parador in Leon. It's beautiful, huge, and steeped in history. It's attached to a former monastery, which served as a hospital for pilgrims in the old days. The hotel is, itself, part of the Camino.

The Camino is marked across its length by yellow arrows - but in Leon proper, you find your way through town by following bronze scallops embedded in the pavement.

I followed them back to the Cathedral, which has staggeringly beautiful stained glass windows. I understand that it has a higher stained glass to stone ratio than any other Cathedral in the world. I'd believe it.

Walking around a small side street, I ran into the Nikkens, and while I was talking to them, Nuria and Ivan walked by. So we all had dinner together, along with a friend of Nuria's father. We were talking about how we keep running into each other, and Mrs. Nikkens said: "It's the Camino." She's right, I think.

The Parador is very upscale and grand. It's sort of funny - when I checked in I was in a sweaty T-shirt and cycling shorts, and the other people in the lobby were all very stylishly dressed. But no one cares. All the people who work in the hotel - as it has been in every hotel - are really nice. They must be used to pilgrims. They let me keep my bike in a room normally used to store luggage.

Total time: Don't know. 5:21 on bike. 112.9 km

 

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