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ESTELLA to SANTO DOMINGO DE LA CALZADA <MAP> |
| This was a bad day to be on a bike. A storm blew through during the night with winds strong enough to blow patio furniture around. While the skies were turning blue, the wind hadn't abated when I left for Santo Domingo de la Calzada. It was blowing so hard I had to pedal to go down hill. Plus the terrain was up and down all day. Riding was so tough that I was convinced something had broken on my bike.
I stopped in Los Arcos for a sello. The refugio keeper keeps statistics about where pilgrims are from and where they started their pilgrimage. In Viana, I ran into the Quartels, whom I had met the day before in Estella. We found the place to get our sellos and had lunch together. The next town of any size is Logrono, which for pilgrims, is really well organized. The walking route into town is paved, like a cycle path, and you can get your Credencial stamped right on the outskirts. Then it's straight through town - everything is really well marked. This was not a day for peaceful meditation. It was just push the pedals down. There were a number of nice looking villages near the road, but I didn't have the heart to deviate from my route. I am in the heart of the Rioja, where Spain's most famous wines are made. There were vineyards on both sides of the road for most of the day. Almost all the riding was on a major "National" road . These roads are great to ride on. They have a painted line with about a 5 foot-wide shoulder. I believe the shoulder was originally designed for slow-moving vehicles, like farm equipment. It makes a perfect cycle path. Not only is the pavement smooth, but drivers treat cyclists with respect. It's very different than what I'm used to. Where I live, most drivers act as if cyclists are breaking the law by riding their bicycles in the street. I did stop in Najera for a sello. As I was looking for the place to get it, I ran into the Quartels again. They had failed to find a place to stay in Najera, and were heading for Santo Domingo de la Calzada. They told me how to find the albergue where I could get my sello, but I got lost anyway. Once I did find it, I saw some German cyclists who had seen me at the bridge at Puente la Reina. The road from Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada is uphill most of the way. I arrived at my hotel - the Parador Santo Domingo de la Calzada. After showering and washing my clothes I went out to look for some postcards. I ran into the Quartels on more time. They invited me to dinner, but I was too beat to walk anywhere. The Parador let me keep my bike in their garage. Day two: 7:56 hours. 5:57 on bike. 95 km. |
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