RONCESVALLES to ESTELLA   <MAP>

I got to Roncesvalles the evening of my arrival in Spain. I actually stayed a short distance west of Roncesvalles in Burguete, at a lovely little spot called the Hotel Loizu. (For you cyclists, the manager will take you to a garage about a block away where you can store your bicycle for the evening.)

Unless you're determined to stay at the Refugio in Roncesvalles, I'd recommend staying in Burguete, which is more of a village, with shops, places to eat, etc. There's a cafe across the street from the Hotel Loizu that has great coffee and croissants.

After I reassembled my bike and checked into the Loizu, I walked up the road to Roncesvalles. I happened to arrive in time for the blessing of the pilgrims. The priests who hold the ceremony ask that you say a prayer for them when you get to Santiago. It was a lovely walk, and I got the first stamp in my Credencial.

The next morning, as soon as I got on my bike, I was passed by a peloton of cyclists. I had the luxury of going downhill for 1 kilometer before the road started climbing. When I got to Erro, I had a choice. Continue on to Pamplona, or skirt the city and pass by the church at Eunate. I chose the latter, as suggested by my Confraternity cycling guide. (I don't think this is a legitimate option for people who are walking). But if you're cycling, I'd recommend this. The road is quiet, pretty, and largely devoid of traffic. It's also mostly downhill or flat, unlike the road through Pamplona, which I heard later has a nasty climb at the Alto de Perdon.

The route I took led directly to the Knights Templar church at Eunate. This is a tiny, octagonal church modeled after the Templars' church in Jerusalem. Its window panes are thin, translucent slabs of marble, and the exterior is decorated with lots of decorative carvings.

It's pretty much flat riding until you get to Puente la Reina. I stopped for my sello and ran into the peloton of cyclists that had passed me that morning. They were French cyclo-touristes. There were 39 of them, from all over France, who were riding with support vehicles.

The bridge at Puente la Reina is a famous Camino landmark. It marks the convergence of two routes in from France. Every pilgrim since the 11th century has crossed the bridge.

On the way out of Puente la Reina, you have a choice of taking the "old" or the "new" road. While the "old" road is beautifully maintained, and lightly traveled, it's a very steep climb out of town. So much so, that you can hear traffic below you on the "new" road. Take the "new" one.

While the day had begun with beautiful weather, it started to rain when I left Puente la Reina, and continued all afternoon. The wind picked up, too.

About 1 1/2 hours later, I arrived in Estella. Got my sello at the refugio, and directions to a bike shop. When I put my bike back together in Burguete, I had noticed that the back axle was loose, and wanted someone to check it out. The refugio recommended Cycles Alonso. If you need any bike work done early in your trip, stop there. At the shop, I met a great Dutch family, the Quartels, who live in Belgium and who were also riding to Santiago. They had taken the same uphill road out of Puente la Reina, and thought as ill of it as I had.

My final destination was the Hotel Irache, about 4 km. west of Estella, just past the Monasterio Irache, and another Camino landmark, the wine fountain at Bodegas Irache. Free wine or water. As much as you want.

The Irache is a modern, comfortable hotel with a restaurant on the lower level. They let me keep my bicycle indoors in a locked storage room.

Day one: 9:17 hours, 5:15 on bike, 100.1 kilometers.