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As soon as dinner is done,
I'm off on my flight of fancy. Here's the monitor, before
the operation. A perfectly good monitor, except for the fact
that it's so dim it looks like it's turned off even when
it's on. A perfect candidate!
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Step 1: Remove the swivel base. This was the easiest part,
and one of the few steps that didn't threaten me with
electrocution.
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With the base off, the next task was removing the back
case.
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Viola! Free and easy.
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Here's what the inside of the back of the case looks like.
Plenty spacious, wouldn't you say?
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Now we need to take off the top grill, so we can get access
to all the goodies inside.
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And here we are. We can see the picture tube, the deflector
board (to the left), and the power supply (to the right).
Also note the happy electrocution sticker, with the number
"18000" on it. Enough voltage to make you and many of your
friends lay down and be very still forever.
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Of course, the problem is getting one's hands in there to
disconnect things. Kind of hard to do from the top, if you
follow the "official" directions.
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So we won't follow the directions. I decided to take the CRT
out first, to give me easier access to the
insides.
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Look, it's Greg TV!
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Before we can yank the picture tube, we need to disconnect
the video board inside. Easy enough.
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Now there's just 4 screws keeping me from
access...
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And here we are. One plenty-big CRT.
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Here's the new and improved view of the inner case. Much
easier to get to the remaining components now.
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Now it's time to remove the deflector board.
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Things became much simpler when I remembered that I wasn't
trying to fix this monitor, just take it apart.
Hence, things that should be "unplugged" could now just be
cut. We can see, in the middle, the friendly bleeder
resistor that kept me from tasting those 18,000 volts
advertised on the CRT.
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A nice close-up of the deflector board. Mmm mmm
good.
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And finally, the power supply. We're left with a (mostly)
bare inner case, almost ready for tank-ation.
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One last thing - gotta remove and save the power switch. My
plan will deviate from other 20" monitor aquariums in that I
plan to leave enough room in the back to be able to use the
original switch to turn the lights on and off in the
tank.
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Here's the pile of innards from our adventure. Not to be
confused with the working pile of Mac stuff seen in the
background. Except the Mac II case on the right, which will
become part of the MacQuarium 20". And the Dust Buster -
that's not even a Mac part.
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