Stuupid Guys Hike - I.


Stuupid Guys Hike:

A blessing can be a curse. One of the biggest blessings of my trip is traveling alone. Traveling alone affords me plenty of chances to meet people and do things with them that might never happen otherwise. But then sometimes there are things I cannot do without company.

Several years ago I did my 1st ‘off trail’ hike in Glacier Park. I met a guy who had GPS coordinates about how to climb Rising Wolf Mountain. It was a spectacular hike. So I wanted to do another this trip, and had been recommended a 22 miler. This one would ascend to Hidden Lake overlook, down around the lake, up a ridge to 8,000’, way down to Floral Park, back up to Sperry Glacier, past Mt Edwards, thru Coumeau Pass, and then down past Sperry Chateau to trails end at Lake McDonald (remember these names, you’ll see the pictures). I had a book with instructions, but this type of hike is not one to do alone, too many opportunities to get lost, injured, or eaten by bears. I’d been looking for someone to hike with for over a week, but with no success.

And so it happened that I was in the Ranger Station. I was feeling a bit desperate. I wanted to do this, real bad. These two guys walk in. They looked like hikers. I asked them “Are you guys hikers?” They replied “Yes”. So I told them about my idea to do a 22 mile off trail hike. I was afraid they might detect my desperation. They did, but to no consequence. Later they told me I reminded them of an unpopular girl trying to get a prom date.

So then, one guy looks at the other guy. His eyes get real big. His face gets real expressive. He raises his voice and says “We don’t usually plan on doing stupid stuff !.. we usually just fall into it by accident.” Inquires are made as to where and how. The decision is made to leave at 6am the following morn. The ranger in the background is rolling his eyes… contemplating the odds of a search & rescue.

Its a 1 ½ mile walk up a boardwalk up to Hidden Lake overlook, then down to the lake. Until we find Coumeau Pass, there will be no more trail. We follow instructions from a book. We look for specific landmarks like game trails, ridges, bowls, and peaks. It is so wonderful, beyond spectacular. There are all kinds of beauty. Majestic beauty, serene beauty, quiet landscapes, dramatic cliffs, ridges that reach to the sky, and meditative lakes. The rocks & trees, snow & ice, and wind & clouds conspire to accentuate the awesome views.

I have good news and bad news. My new hiking buddies are into Buddhism. This is good because they have lost the ability to worry or complain. This is good because we have excellent conversations about life, religion & philosophy… transient conversations. This is good because I learn from them new ways to relax & enjoy my surroundings. This is bad because along with loosing the ability to worry or complain, they have lost the instinct for survival. I cannot rush or hurry them. I cannot get them to care that we have four hours of light left… and 12 more miles. Do you see where this is going?

Hidden Lake has a quiet drama. The ridge behind it is steep and difficult but rewards us with such a majestic view. The serenity of Floral Park is in the foreground with its beautiful lakes. Sperry glacier is behind it. This is highlighted by numerous waterfalls. And framed by majestic peaks. We see bears, a mother and two cubs. You will be impressed by the pictures… but photographs cannot do justice to landscape like this.

But trouble is brewing in wonderland. Once we arrive on the glacier, we are to traverse its base toward Mt Edwards where we will find Coumeau Pass. We are using the free map they hand out when entering the park. We did not check the map with the directions before leaving. How stupid is that? Edwards and the pass are not labeled on our map. We dialogue and discuss. We make a decision thru ‘consesus’. We come upon a ridge and see Snyder Lake far below us. We can see that Snyder Creek flows from that lake to our destination. But the sun is beginning to set (this is not yet a great concern because, unlike in the southern USA, sunsets can last for hours). As so we attempt the descent. At first the way is steep but easy. Then the slope turns to a 30’ rock face. We slide down the face to another slope. And another face and another slope and another face. The cliffs are getting steeper. The struggle accentuates each of our strengths and weakness. The Christian and the ‘Zen masters’ find strength together. We work in a sort of desperate harmony. But light is fading fast. The way finally becomes too steep and perilous. We are ‘cliffed out’. I vote to sleep there because its too dangerous in the fading light to climb back up, but they want to try to climb back up. In the darkness we cannot see how steep the cliffs and how far the fall would be, and so we ascend with less fear. Ignorance is bliss. (continued)<...