End to End Diary 2003 Cycled by Angus and Tom WhiteWritten by Angus White ( first day by Tom White)
Nuthurst to Wick, 30th July 2003Kevin took me and Dad to the north terminal at Gatwick. I saw two Formula 1 reporters with their bags going to the Grand Prix at the weekend! We had to take our pedals off our bikes, let the tyres down and then put the bikes in huge plastic bags. Nice flight, I was sitting by a very big man. Very nice new hire car from Inverness airport. For the flight we let our tyres down so on the way to Wick we thought it would be a good idea to pump them up ready for tomorrow. We stopped in two different petrol station to pump the tyres up, after carrying on, on our journey my back tyre just decided to go pop. When we got to the hotel in Wick I changed the tyre, at the same time Dad checked his bike. Supper was nice in the hotel, but before that I had to go upstairs in the lift which didn’t have a door, the wall just moved past! Had a walk around Wick which looked just like Cornwall, then went to bed. Distance: Zero miles
John O’Groats to Dornoch, 31st July 2003, Day 1Nice warm dry comfortable taxi dumped us at by derelict ‘Hotel’ at John O’Groats in driving rain. We took pictures and left quickly – we needed to. Rained and rained – hard work but fantastic run down to Helmsdale in warm sun – very beautiful. All along by the sea with incredible views of the Moray coast (Tom thought it was Sweden – he was wrong) Shopping in Helmsdale and carried on. Legs were bad. Last few miles were relieved by lovely short cut to Dornoch through woods and by the Loch – like the Camel Trail by the Camel estuary – but no one there. Burghfield House Hotel and Dornoch most desirable. Lots of deep heat. Average: 11.1 mph Max: 30.5 mph Time: 7 hours 24 minutes 5 seconds Distance: 82.30 miles Overall: 82.30 miles
Dornoch to Invergarry, 1st August 2003, Day 2Dornoch looked lovely – sunny and pretty but how was Dad’s leg? After 10 miles not good but pushed on. At the summit of the Black Isle surgery was performed – deep heat and large bandage. All well to Inverness and then the wind began – gale force from the south west. We had been warned! All along Loch Ness we struggled against strong wind and bad legs – but did we get to Invergarry Hotel eventually? Of course we did! Will we make Crianlarich tomorrow? God knows but weather forecast not bad. P.S. at Whitchurch – What Dad didn’t say was that this day was the ordeal of a lifetime! Average: 10.3 mph Max: 27 mph Time: 8 hours 13 minutes 42 seconds Distance: 85.04 miles Overall: 167.34 miles
Invergarry to Crianlarich, 2nd August 2003, Day 38:30am left Invergarry Hotel in hand drizzle and lowering skies. Sped along Loch Lochy with magnificent views – we biked through Middle Earth and the land of Mawdor – very dramatic. By the time we reached Fort William the weather and the traffic was truly hellish. Round the coast to Ballahullish – where me and Bulloughs had moored in 1994. Approached Glencoe with trepidation but nature actually smiled upon us – the gale blow us up to 1141 foot with smiles on our faces. Back to Mordor and a long plod with BAD LEGS and sore bottoms to B&B in Crianlarich. Nice dinner but the following Anti-Smoking homily probably sums up the place really well: ‘The Lodge House’ is a No Smoking Establishment (in red). Please remember this is our home and it is our, and the majority of our guests’ wishes that it be non-smoking (in red). If you are a smoker, you may think that if you smoke by the window or in the toilet no one will know, believe me we will know, as it can take us two days or more to get rid of the smell. If you have to smoke please do it outside. Anyone found smoking in The Lodge House will be requested to leave. Also quite liked: Please help us by ordering breakfast prior to retiring. Average: 10.2 mph Max: 27 mph Time: 7 hours 24 minutes 54 seconds Distance: 75.82 miles Overall: 243.16 miles
Crianlarich to Kilmarnock, 3rd August 2003, Day 4I had the distinct feeling that Gordan and Maureen were quite glad to see the back of us. Don’t know why – Gordon gave me a very withering answer to – what are Monros? Monros are mountains over 3,000 foot and they have 4 quite close, Oh yes. Sunday morning so wonderfully quiet – no traffic, no wind but plenty of rain. Down hill to the north end of Loch Lomand. Lack of wind made it feel like heaven. The road follows the Loch closely – much better view from the bike than a car – we kept stopping. Traffic got very busy by 11am and so we took to various footpaths and side roads wherever possible. Dried up by mid day and then on to big dual carriageway as we approached the Erskine Bridge across the Clyde. Then endless roundabouts, bad leg (me), bad shoulder (Tom) and a few navigational digressions. I gave Tom a few massages which seemed to help and my bandage fell off in Paisley – by which time leg felt better – maybe it changed shape. Went through dead grotty bits south of Glasgow, crossed a road and suddenly hit a rather splendid residential area called Newton Mearns. Getting warmer – anorak off for first time since Inverness, shoulder better, leg better and we flew to Kilmarnock. Travel Lodge – clean and they leave you alone and they don’t have stupid rules or point out how we could ‘make things better for them’. About to dine at the Little Chef. We’re on holiday and we’re liking it. P.S Easiest day so far – by far. Average: 11.9 mph Max: 71 mph (pooh – ed) Time: 6 hours 24 minutes 2 seconds Distance: 76.49 miles Overall: 319.65 miles
Kilmarnock to Gretna, 4th August 2003, Day 5Today was dominated by lovely weather, rolling countryside, poor road surfaces and splendid Scottish lorries – they’re really smart. The A76 wasn’t really as bad as we expected – quite nice really. Fun hurtling past Dumfries and then the road got as bad as the A281 from Horsham to Guildford. We grabbed the map to explore alternative and yes! There it was - nice little B road deserted and just as quick. One of those occasions when a bike ride can turn from Hell to Heaven in 30 seconds (or visa versa). Stopped for ice cream in rather sad place called Annan and powered on to our destination in Gretna – Solway Lodge – chicken wings, Chardonay, Thai Chicken etc. Dad’s legs pretty good – Tom’s suffering from sunburn and bad (occasional) shoulder. Another point of interest is the way the body (at least at 54) seems to compensate for various pains – ask Dad for details. Average: 12.2 mph Max: 26.5 mph Time: 6 hours 48 minutes 40 seconds Distance: 83.34 miles Overall: 402.99
Gretna to Garstang, 5th August 2003, Day 6Over dinner at Garstang – slightly squiffy after 1 and a half large glasses of Chardo. Bit worried about this one – the longest + a large mountain. We did it but God didn’t we need a lot of Bananas and apple pies? Fast start – we liked Carlisle, Penrith nothing special but then confronted with a big climb – higher than Glen Coe. Through Shap (ice creams and nice chat with local chap about biking) up to 1400 ft – wonderful! Today was HOT – on Shap fell it was cool, the A6 was deserted and the views down to Kendal and beyond were fantastic. Hurtled down to Kendal, through the town, onto the other side and we both bonked (bike-speak for major lactic acid build up and blood sugar plummet) big time. Both slept on grass verge for 20 minutes after eating bananas and apple pies with our heads about 3 ft from thundering lorries going past. Extraordinarily restorative – how many people have experienced this? Took off on the final 30 miles to Garstang. Liked Lancaster and saw the beautiful Carnforth monument in the distance (will go back one day) arrived at Crofters Lodge (very comfortable and welcoming) tireder than usual. A tough day. Average: 12 mph Max: 64.5 mph (pooh – ed) Time: 7 hours 19 minutes 13 seconds Distance: 88.04 Overall: 491.03 miles
Garstang to Whitchurch, 6th August 2003, Day 7Expecting terribly hot weather (we had been warned by all) left as early as possible. The route looked complicated on the map but turned out to be quite fun and not very hot – for the first 50 miles anyway. Preston was pleasant, prosperous and well organised. Wigan, Warrington and many other forgettable townships were not. Some poor and miserable places – full of angry males in old bangers driving with much self-conseaous aggression. A noticeable change leaving Lancs into Cheshire. Long rest in lovely churchyard in Stretton / Appleton – a safe distance south of Warrington. Tom needed a hat and I chose a smart Mercedez / AC car shop and was intrigued by their ability to ignore us until I – rather pointedly – interrupted one of their conversations. Rather depressing – all these well turned out chaps where car-related status evidently took precedence over EVERYTHING. Got a hat though! Raced (and lost) a couple of other end-to-enders and arrived in quiet and pretty Whitchurch at a civilized 4pm. Somewhere between Preston and Wigan an old timer on a bike said, as we passed by in the opposite direction ‘End to Enders?’ ‘Yes’ we both replied ‘Brilliant’ he replied in a very strong Lancs accent. Kept me laughing for several miles, nice man. The days seem to get easier and easier – no ills just tired. We didn’t suffer today and it all seems wrong Average: 12.9 mph (13 mph when first arrived) Max: 47 mph (pooh – ed) Time: 5 hours 55 minutes 23 seconds Distance: 76.73 miles Overall: 567.76 miles
Whitchurch to Hereford, 7th August 2003, Day 8Nice people at Dodington Lodge Hotel gave us a 7am breakfast – ready for an early start – what with more blasting weather forecasts. Set out in cool mist, busy but easy road. The mist went and the heat began at about 11. Through Shrewsbury – at 10am on a hot morning – very prosperous and pretty. Shopping at Safeway - Tom got ludicrous amount of bananas (we recognise their diettry value but still are getting a little tired of them) and cakes. Struggled on at good speed to Ludlow which was impressive but very touristy. Bought ready made rolls and set off to find quiet churchyard on road to Richard’s Castle. Excellent advise from nice chap in Ludlow. Escaped the worst of the dreaded A49 on lovely quiet road – we should do more of that. The day was the first to be dominated by the heat that we’d been warned about. Angus discovered Calipso ice lolly things – oh yes! Hit Hereford and found our very smart digs – Castle House Hotel – and now waiting for various Bulloughs to turn up. Tired but not hurting. Certainly our quietest day – so far. Tom’s comments: Got so hot, mega busy road and bike squeaking again. P.S. Had very nice meal with Willy and Tom Bullough and Charlie at the Left Bank in Hereford. They were slightly withering about the restaurant but it was cool (don’t forget this was in the middle of the biggest heat wave since 1990) and the best meal we’ve had since leaving. Willy paid. Fun was had by all. Average: 12.7 mph Max: 29 mph Time: 5 hours 49 minutes 4 seconds Distance: 74.39 miles Overall: 642.15 miles
Hereford to Churchill, 8th August 2003, Day 9Breakfast 7am on the dot so left before 8 – more ___ weather warnings but was so misty we put on our rear lights. Took the direct route to Monmouth, (NOT avoiding ‘hilly route’ on the A49) which was an amazing and rather enjoyable switch back on endless not very big hills. Tom remembers the river and woods which is the road by the Wye between Monmouth and Chepstow - so well known to me in various VWs visiting Llanhowell over the years. It was hilly but still not too hot due to mistiness. Then the amazing Severn Bridge and our very own road way. It was misty and dramatic and many photos were taken – it moves and judders and sways like crazy – almost had motion sickness at one point. Settled down on grass slope above unaccountably serene services at Aust on the Gloucs side for an hour of reading, eating and sleeping in the shade of an elm tree and then the fun began. Only 30 miles to go but it was hotter and we had the road to Avon mouth and Bristol (even failed to enjoy the Clifton suspension bridge). Eventually to our relief found the A38 to Taunton – more hills, lousy road surface and very busy all the way to Churchill – one of the worst sections of the whole trip. They always seem to be good fun in the morning and an ordeal in the afternoon – surely due to fatigue but it doesn’t always seem like that to us. Made it eventually – comfortable room but down at local pub seemed the best idea. Average: 11.4 mph Max: 34 mph Time: 5hours 57 minutes 28 seconds Distance: 68.38 miles Overall: 710.53 miles
Churchill to Exeter, 9th August 2003, Day 10Winston Manor Hotel rather claustrophobic room – good breakfast though. Being Saturday, couldn’t have breakfast until 8, so late departure at 8:45 with no cool mist to protect us today – HOT from the start. Dreading the A49 but it seems the heavy traffic of last night that made the ride so grim was due to balloon festival near there. Traffic at 5:50am was very heavy – much lighter by 8am – they were all going ballooning weren’t they? So – A49 not as bad as anticipated – apart from 495?? miles and then hit the Somerset Levels – nice and flat to Bridgewater, almost to Taunton. Each day is an individual ordeal - whether 90 miles or 60 miles it makes little difference- it’s all planned in the mind right from the start. It was hot and the roads were rough ( re-chipped roads- we noted- are always particularly bad under trees- why?) A49 traffic got thinner and thinner as it was syphoned off at various motorway exits. Did Wellington, Cullompton and ended up on quiet B road intertwined with the M5- we could often hear it but not see it. Long lunch with sandwiches in Willard churchyard - we seem to have reverted to south-of-England mode. Up north we never had long breaks- just quick banana breaks. Day dominated by HEAT AND SADDLE SORE as far as I was concerned - all other functions in good order. Royal Clarence Hotel in Exeter v. Comfortable and supper in Pizza Express with views of cathedral - very civilised. Terrible night – it was like an oven Average: 12.2 mph Max: 57.5 mph (pooh – ed) Time: 5 hours 13 minutes 44 seconds Distance: 64.08 Overall: 774.61 miles
Exeter to Bodmin, 10th August 2003, Day 11Back on old territory- the A30. Had a bit of a tour round Exeter- got slightly lost actually. Humid, misty. We ploughed on uphill and down dale. Sunday morning so billions of cars off to Cornwall- they were probably disappointed by the weather there- temp at Heathrow at 3pm was 100.5 *F. We still sweated away with nothing much to report except noise of traffic until had usual BANG TINKLE I always get on the A30 as back tyre exploded. Repaired it, got very mucky and established that my back wheel was a bit out- will it make the last 60 miles tomorow? Bliss it was to leave the A30 for long cut to Bodmin via the Camel Trail to fetch up at Westberry Hotel in Bodmin, drinking beer and waiting for mum and Sal to visit. Average: 11.5 mph Max: 33 mph Time: 6 hours 10 minutes 8 seconds Distance: 70.98 Overall: 845.59
Bodmin to Land’s End, 11th August 2003, Day 12A mere 59 miles to go – mere bagatelle – we thought. Hills, hills, hills, noise, noise, noise. We didn’t have a break until 45 miles – nowhere to buy food and nowhere to stop. Cloudy and cool when we left – sunny by lunchtime. Sleep and ate at service station. Stopped at Hardy Exotics – Clive and Julie in fine chatty form and we may meet up next week. Determined to savour the last 14 miles to Land’s End but hadn’t counted on STUPID CORNISH HILLS – so many and so steep they made me quite cross. Penzance to Land’s End was as bad as any of the whole trip. Arrived to find reception committee from Fran, Sal, Edie, Julia and Charles. Photo session, bikes in Charles’ car - reception commitee left. Tom and Dad return to their wonderful rooms in Land’s End Hotel and now looking forward to dinner over the ocean. No aches and pains but very weary – nicely so, but Mackay’s Hotel in Wick seems a very long time ago. I enjoyed the trip greatly – I think we both did. Very relaxing in a rather unrelaxing way. The weather and the comfortable Hotel and just the two of us here makes it a very fitting end to our holiday. P.S. Watched most of the Fastnet boats heading west towards Ireland. Rather too far out to be a fine sight. Average: 12.2 mph Max: 30.5 mph Time: 4 hours 48 minutes 41 seconds Distance: 58.81 miles Overall: 904.4 miles
John O Groats to Land’s End, 31st July until 11th August 2003Average: 11.7 mph Time: 77 hours 29 minutes 4 seconds Distance: 904.40 miles
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