South Early Winters Spire, Southwest Couloir (I, class 3)

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Elain and I drove up to the South Early Winters Spire yesterday, with the hopes of hiking to the top of the spire. The trail from the Blue Lake trailhead was easy to follow, and the snow was well-packed. Observed many spectacular avalanches coming down some of the larger peaks in the vicinity, but the approach to the Early Winters Spires seemed relatively safe. The hike up to the entrance of the Southwest Couloir took two hours at an easy pace. There was no evidence of fresh snow, or avalanche debris in the couloir, so we decided to continue. The snow conditions in the couloir varied from firm wet snow, to ice, to sugary snow, with the firm wet snow being predominant in the lower 400' and the sugary snow being predominant in the upper 300'. There was a very short (less than 10') steep section of hard ice, but otherwise, there was regrettably little ice to be found. We ascended unroped up to the "fork", and simul-climbed the rest of the way above the fork. At the top of the couloir, there was a large accumulation of snow overhanging the East (?) face of the spire, which we carefully avoided stepping onto. We decided against taking the final 50' rock scramble to the summit, but it looked like easy 4th class. There were no other parties in the couloir. Seems like everyone else was going up the South Arete; we counted at least four parties heading that way. Descended the couloir as follows. Belayed a down-climb about 100'. Then two rappels to get to the fork. Then down-climbed unroped to exit the couloir.

Overall, the snow conditions were pretty soft, especially in the upper part of the couloir. It appears to be melting out very rapidly. I'd be surprised if the couloir is still 100% snow-covered, a week from now. It was a fun hike. Technically I'd rate it an AS 1+ (alpine slush rating).

Gear used:

9mm x 50m dry rope
2 pickets
#10 BD stopper
slings
ice axe
ice tool
crampons

The South Early Winters Spire. (Photo courtesy of Dave Burdick). Climbing route is the right-hand branch.

Steve on the trail to the base of the South Early Winters Spire

Elain at the base of the southwest couloir

Steve at the base of the southwest couloir

Elain at the summit

Steve at the summit

View from the summit

Steve downclimbing the couloir