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Gear Information

This is the list of gear that we currently use for alpine climbing and hiking in the Washington Cascades. The items that we use primarily in winter are listed at the bottom of the table.

Item Steve Elain Comment
pack Cold Cold World Chernobyl Wild Things Ice Sac  
sleeping bag Feathered Friends Lark Feathered Friends Egret  
ice tools Grivel Light Wing; Goulottes pick BD Shrike - straight shaft  
ice axe BD Raven Pro, 60 cm BD Raven, 60 cm  
crampons Grivel G12, new-matic Grivel G12, new-matic with anti-balling plates
boots La Sportiva Trango Extreme La Sportiva Trango Extreme EVO GTX  
helmet Petzl Elios Petzl Ecrin Roc  
harness Trango Mountain Harness BD Alpine Bod  
sleeping pad Zotefoams blue foam pad, 3/4 length Z-rest pad, 1/2 length  
belay device Petzl Reverso BD ATC XP Reverso soon to be replaced
headlamp Black Diamond Spot Petzl Tikka Plus  
sunglasses Julbo Cebe  
parka Wild Things Synthetic Wild Things Synthetic  
gaiters OR Verglas OR Crocodiles  
gloves BD Ice Glove BD Ice Glove  
tent BD Firstlight  
stove MSR Simmerlight  
GPS Garmin Gecko  
altimeter Suunto Altimax  
rope Mammut Genesis 8.5mm x 50m half ropes, super dry treated soon to be replaced with 60m half ropes
cams Wild Country Friends, 0.5-1.5  
ice screws BD Turbo Express  
ULTRALIGHT:
crampons - ultralight Stubai ultralight aluminum Stubai ultralight aluminum  
boots - ultralight La Sportiva Trango S La Sportiva Trango S  
stove - ultralight MSR Pocket Rocket  
WATERFALL ICE:
ice tools BD Rage Grivel Light Wing Android leash on one of the Rages
harness Misty Mountain Arete BD Bod  
crampons Grivel G14, dual points BD Bionic, dual points  
WINTER GEAR:
avalanche beacon DTS Tracker (Backcountry Access) DTS Tracker (Backcountry Access)  
avalanche probe Life-Link aluminum, 8' Life-Link carbon fiber, 8'  
snow shovel BD Lynx Ascension  
tent - winter Bibler I-Tent, 1 door  
stove - winter MSR XGK  
snowshoes MSR Denali Ascent MSR Denali Ascent  
poles BD Switchback BD Ascent  
mittens REI Ridgecrest REI Ridgecrest  
parka - winter Wild Things Belay Jacket Wild Things Belay Jacket  
boots - plastic Scarpa Alpha w/ thermofit liners Lowa Civetta  


The Rack:

Typical rack (winter alpine ice/mixed):

6 Camp tri-cams, #0.5 - #3
2 WC cams, #3 and #3.5
4-6 ice screws (1-2x19, 2x16, 1-2x13)
4-6 pins
1-2 pickets
2 screamers
half set of BD wired nuts (odd numbers between #1 - #9)
2 BD hexes #6, #8
V-threader

Typical waterfall ice rack:

8-10 ice screws (1-2x22, 2x19, 3-4x16, 2x13)
3 screamers
2 V-threaders
2-3 pins
possibly some small tri-cams, depending on the route

Typical rack (summer alpine rock):

3 Camp tri-cams, #0.5 - #1.5
5 WC cams, #2-#4 (inclusive)
2 pins 
1 screamer
full set of BD wired nuts (#1 - #10)
2 BD hexes #6, #8
nut tool

Extra gear for glacier (for each climber):

2 rescue pulleys 
cord for Prussik
1 ice screw (late season)
V-threader (late season) 
1 picket (if there is seasonal snow)