Loss & Replacement of Ranger 20 and 26 Swing Centerboards ========================================================= In the past couple or three years (or so) we have had a number of inquiries about replacing the centerboards of the R-20 and R-26. Our advice is that you avoid losing yours. No kidding. Unlike some other CB boats (my Ericson 25 CB for example), the Ranger centerboards aren't pinned in. The R-20s' CBs are held in by "two round shoulders, or bosses, molded to the very front, protruding from each side. They're about [1.5]" [in] diameter & stick out about [1/2]" from each side. These form the 'pivot pin'. These two bosses fit into a corresponding molded slot in each side of the forward end of the trunk. "[U]nder the keel ... you can feel the entry to these slots. The slot is molded in a half circle shape, the forward end is closed off. The pivot bosses hang in there." -- Bulletin #21 Ranger 20. The Ranger 26 swing keel is a thin deep keel that falls down farther than that of the 20. Its forward (pivot) end is held in place by a mechanism similar in general but different in detail. The pivot pin "slots" are more like curved _tracks_. Both centerboards are removed (or lost) by the pendants' coming free. Doing this on purpose, with appropriate planning, is to be preferred over having it occur unexpectedly because the pendant corroded or fatigued and then broke, because the R-20's CB falls free immediately; the -26's must have its forward (pivot) end pushed up past a "hump" in the track. The above-referenced technical bulletin explains removal & replacement of the R-20's centerboard. The factory _may_ still have these molds; the club has discussed acquiring them, but as of this writing no action has been taken. Ranger/Martini Boat apparently has little interest in fabricating boards; owners of those boats may be on their own. mdk_ 17 August 2002 ----- UPDATE--15 May 2003 We have received (A) a potentially helpful piece of intelligence about a fiberglass business that (tentatively, at least) offers to fabricate our replacement CBs for us; (B) the mention of a "spare" R-26 CB that could be used in the cloning process; and (C) a detailed explanation from Raymond H. Richards, the designer of our Ranger sailboats, telling how the DIY-er would go about copying a borrowed centerboard. As a rule, Ray prefers molecular correspondence over electronic, but he was stalwart during the set of e-mail exchanges that has led to our having an excellent _how-to_ document to add to our "technical manuals". We are grateful to all of our helpful friends. --Webmaster ----- (A) The Easy Way ---------------- From: "Lewellyn J." To: "Jacques Meijsen" Subject: centerboards Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 17:48:34 -0700 I have a friend here in Clarkston WA that has made rudders and swing keels for some boats as well as building his own 23 foot trimaran with foam core and vacuum-bagging. I called him about the note in the news letter that some have lost centerboards for R20s and R26s. HeÊexpressed anÊinterest in making replacements. I have an R20 that he could use for a pattern. His name is: Randy Blair, Blair's Wind and Wood Boats, 509- 758- 6436, Louie J. (R-20 #252) ---- (B) Part of the Easy Way ------------------------ From: "Gail T./Bob B." To: Subject: R-26 Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 11:24:24 -0700 Hi Jacques WeÊare the owners of aÊR-26 "Cynomys" and live in Comox on Vancouver Island. We met a few of your members when they were docked on S Pender Is a number of years ago. Read with interest that 3 R-26's have lost their centerboard. We have an extra centerboard; we could supply the dimensions and template if it would help. Take care and great sailing. Cheers Bob B. ----- (C) The Other Easy Way ---------------------- Here is what naval architect Raymond H. Richards, who designed our Ranger boats, has had to say about replacing a lost centerboard: From: RHRremoveNAVARCH@aol.com Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 12:45:53 EDT Subject: R-26 CENTERBOARD To: sajREMOVEmeij@netzero.net << If the tooling (mold) has not been scrapped, perhaps it could be obtained and placed with a small fiberglass boat shop or repairman. Failing that, if someone is up to shaping a plug and taking a split mold from it ~ not a big job ~ I will be happy to supply the drawing. >> << Shaping a plug can be avoided if one of the owners is willing to 'loan' his centerboard to be 'splashed'. That would mean: 1) removing it from the well; 2) resurfacing it to a finish smooth enough to 'release'; 3) fitting a temporary flange, say 2" wide, all around, at the center or half thickness; 4) liberally applying wax, 'Simonize" type, to the plug and flange surfaces; 5) applying gel coat - spray equipment is not needed; a weenie roller will do; 6) applying a releasing agent; 7) laminating a mold half over it; 8) removing the temporary flange; 9) repeat #4 and #5; 10) laminating that half; 11) drilling locating holes through the flanges; 12) removing the mold halves from the plug; and voila'! You will have a split mold for a R-26 centerboard. The flange is a flat ledge or shelf-like projection all around the plug/board-cum-mold. Starting with a piece of 1/2- to 3/4-inch plywood at least 4" larger than the plug/board--preferably one with 'Formica' on it (like a piece of new or used countertop), which will save a lot of filling and sanding later on--lay the plug/board on it, block it up level to compensate for the thickness of the pivot boss, and clamp them together. Lay masking tape on the to-be-flange all around under the plug/board. Being careful to keep your pencil point directly below the plug/board, trace its shape onto the masking tape. Add more tape to more than 2" beyond that line. Draw a line 2" beyond the plug/board outline. Jigsaw all around both lines and you have a plug/flange blank. It may take a bit of additional sawing or sanding out until the plug/board will insert (fit) into the plug/flange. Carefully position the plug/flange at the half-thickness of the plug/board. Stick them together with globs of 'bondo'. To the top or parting face, carefully fill any gaps with 'bondo'--not too much, just enough--and to flush with the parting face. Do steps 4 - 7, and add the box-like frame described below to the first mold half while it is on the plug/board. Separate the plug/board from the new half-mold. Step 8 simply involves breaking the plug/flange away, and scraping, grinding, and sanding away any 'bondo' left sticking to the plug/board. Return the plug/board to the first half-mold. Go to step 9 and beyond, and add the box-like frame to the second mold half. The next task is that of laminating and trimming the two halves of the new board while in their respective molds, and then fitting the ballast and foam fill in them. The fill must be trimmed to flat and flush with the flanges of the mold. With a releasing agent on the flanges, resin and a layer of light mat can then be applied to the open faying (facing) surfaces, and the halves can be brought together and clamped tight until the resin 'goes off'. The mold can then be opened and the new centerboard taken out. It will still need some trimming, sealing, and cosmetic touching up all around the 'parting line'. Don't forget the wax. The laminate for the mold might be (in pairs or plies): A) 2 oz. mat & 7-to-10 oz. cloth B) 2 oz. mat & medium woven roving (say) 16 oz C) repeat 'B' The board laminate can be: 'A' + 'B' or even 'A' + 'A' Once the board is out of the mold and the parting line is trimmed, it would be good to grind (sand) about 1 1/2" either side of the parting line and then add a 2" strip of cloth. More sanding, some gel coat, and more sanding will be required to bring the edges back to fair and smooth before adding the primer and anti-fouling coatings. A box-like frame of 2x4 or other should be tabbed on to each mold half and a 1/2- to 3/4-inch plywood back should be screwed or nailed to each. The objective is to stiffen the mold halves against warping. For the same reason, the mold halves should be joined and bolted or clamped when not in use. Care must be taken to ensure that too thick a board does not result from the process. To that end, and especially if the borrowed board fits almost too snugly in its well, I would locate the temporary flange about 1/16" shy of the half thickness of the borrowed board (plug). With the temporary flange removed after laminating the first half of the mold, I would then lay a 1/8" thick, gasket-like spacer on the first half flange and then laminate the second half. The result should be about 1/8" thinner than the borrowed board. Adjust the thicknesses to suit the need. Any reasonably capable do-it-yourselfer should be able to do the dusty, itchy job. A fiberglass laminator will do it quicker, but not necessarily better. Ken Wheeler can no doubt provide insight and guidance. >> << Keep t' win'ard, Ray >> Raymond H. Richards, P.E. Naval Architect ~ Marine Engineer Newport Beach, CA 15 May 2003