Kent Ranger Sailing
AssociationKent Ranger Sailing
Association
Congratulations! You have just joined the rapidly growing group of sailors who own the finest 20' sailboat in the world, the Ranger 20.
Your Ranger 20 was designed to give you years of exciting sailing, but will require a minimum of maintenance to keep it looking new. To insure this, the following is a description of how to operate and maintain your new sailboat.
I. CABIN
The cabin has a unique dinette table. When lowered, it converts the forward area to a queen-sized berth. To lower or raise the table, simply loosen the set screw at the base of the table and slide it up or down the compression strut to any desired level. Retighten the set screw to hold the table in position. When the table is lowered all the way down, it will slip into a groove which holds the table in place while being used as a filler for the berth. To complete the berth, slide the cushion provided over the table and around the strut.
Storage areas are located under both cockpit seats and have easy access from the cabin. Items such as sail bags, paddles, life jackets, etc., fit easily in this area. The two storage bins on either side of the cabin provide dry storage for items such as lunches or towels.
To keep the inside of your Ranger looking new, it requires little time or effort. To clean any of the fiberglass, use a mild detergent (Ivory-Lux) with fresh water and wipe the surface clean. Rinse with fresh water. A sponge is perfect for this type of cleaning. If the cabin floor gets dirty, the same process with a stiff bristle brush should get the dirt out of the non-skid surface.
An occasional coat of wax on the smooth fiberglass surfaces (not the non-skid) will make cleaning easier and help protect the glass finish.
If your boat is equipped with carpet, remove to clean by shaking or vacuuming. The cushions may be cleaned with any good fabric or naugahyde cleaner.
II. RAIN COVER
The rain cover provides protection for the inside of your boat by snapping along the outside edge of the cabin opening. When the boat is in use, remove the rain cover, fold it up, and store it below.
To clean the cover, use the same detergent solution you would use to clean the fiberglass inside the cabin along with a stiff bristle brush. Be sure to rinse with fresh water after cleaning, then dry.
III. DODGER WITH BACKDROP
The dodger with backdrop (optional) can be easily raised or lowered to protect occupants from rain, wind, or sun.
After removing the rain cover, unhook the strap which holds the rolled-up dodger in place around the cabin opening. To raise the dodger, lift the aluminum frame upright and secure with two nylon straps with snap hooks to the eyelets on both sides of the cockpit. When this is done, pull the dodger forward and snap around the outside edge of the cabin opening on the snaps used by the rain cover.
To install the backdrop, zip along the top and snap both sides of the rear opening of the dodger.
There is a zipped door in the backdrop to allow easy access in or out of the cabin.
The dodger with backdrop is cleaned the same way as the rain cover, taking special care not to scratch the windows with rough abrasive cleaners or brushes.
IV. MARINE TOILET
The marine toilet (optional) is self-contained and complies with the most stringent Federal and State laws in effect. The operation instructions for this particular unit is included in your owner's package.
V. OUTBOARD MOTOR BRACKET
Provision has been made to mount an outboard motor on a bracket mounted on the port side of the transom. The bracket is designed so that the outboard can be lifted clear of the water when not in use.
The fuel tank for the outboard is usually stored under the cockpit seat. Coast Guard approved ventilation for the fuel tank is provided as standard equipment.
VI. SPARS, RIGGING AND HARDWARE
Our masts are built to withstand any normal usage but improper tuning or handling can cause problems. Therefore, we do not warrant the mast of your Ranger 20 under our current warranty program. Rigging, as well as tuning, becomes all important when setting up the mast because of the light weight section we use. A knowledgeable person should oversee the rigging and tuning so as to eliminate the possibility of an eccentric load which might occur with an improperly loaded shroud. Special attention should be given to the initial stretch of the uppers and a further gradual stretch of the wire over the first few hard races.
A. MAST TUNE
The mast should be set straight athwartships in the boat and have a slight rake aft. A straight mast can best be obtained by turnbuckle adjustment while sailing to windward in a 5 to 10 mph breeze. The head of the mast should not "hook" to windward. If not straight, it would be more desirable to have the head "fall-off" slightly to leeward. This should give the mast a smooth, even curve from head to deck. Sighting along the back of the mast on each tack, from deck level, will give a comparison and indicate the necessary adjustments.
For normal cruising conditions, we recommend a "loose" rig. Thus a dock-side starting point would have the headstay, backstay and uppers just firm with the lowers fairly loose. Now the backstay may be made slightly tighter to "hook" the top of the mast aft. One should be able to stand facing the mast, reach out and pull on any stay and see the mast move in that direction. Try to get tension on both stays equal with about 1" to 2" of play on the uppers and 2" to 3" of play on the lowers.
When racing, the backstay may be tightened up to compensate for the additional forward loading applied by the genoa. At the conclusion of the race it is best to"slack-off" the amount you "took-up" on the backstay turnbuckle. This avoids setting up unnecessary strains on the hull and rig. Under NO circumstances should any of the rigging be set up "bar-tight".
B. SPARS
The finish of natural aluminum is protected by a clear anodizing. Dust, dirt, smoke, salt, and traffic fumes will adhere to this finish. Coating the mast surface periodically or about three times a year with Turko Guard 100, Vista Wax, Simonize Wax, or with a clear sealer like Coricone 1700, will protect the aluminum surface. If the mast has become tarnished, any high grade cleaner-wax-polish will restore the original sheen. Minor pitting can be removed by wet-sanding with #600 paper prior to polishing and waxing.
C. RIGGING
Clean rigging means clean sails. A quick look aloft, along with damp rags takes care of this problem. Check the entire rig for loose screws, nuts, bolts, cotter pins and chafe which may have resulted from hard sailing. Spreader tips well taped? Periodic inspection of the rig is your best insurance against rigging and spar failure. Keeping halyards tied away from the mast stops the annoying dockside clanking and saves the mast finish.
Salt water will gradually stiffen dacron line. Hosing with fresh water or soaking in warm soapy water will make the line soft and flexible again. Keep coiled and stowed in a dry spot below.
D. HARDWARE
Many materials are used, all of which clean well with fresh water and a chamois. Winches must be kept clean and well oiled (Lubriplate is excellent unless the manufacturer recommends otherwise) as do all turnbuckles, track slides, sheaves and shackles. The chrome and stainless steel brighten up with the chamois while a good automotive chrome cleaner or mild kitchen abrasive like Comet takes care of the tarnished spots.
Keep all gear lubricated and in good working condition. Remember, the less an item is used, a turnbuckle, for example, the more apt it is to freeze up.
VII. SAILS
Mainsail and headsails have been stripped of sheets, properly folded and are bagged below ready to be brought on deck. The dacron and nylon sails do get wet and become caked with salt. When they do, hose them off with fresh water and dry thoroughly by hoisting them at the dock on a still, warm day.
Take care of your sails with periodic checks, especially spinnakers, for small tears and chafe. Hoisting and lowering sails, except spinnakers, while head-to-wind is good practice and easier on the sails.
VIII. FIBERGLASS SURFACES
Periodic application of Tide and fresh, warm water with deck brush and sponge followed by a good hosing and chamois will do the cleaning job. If the gloss dulls or fades, wax the smooth surfaces with Vista or Meguiar's Mirror Glaze paste wax. Surfaces that have started to oxidize can be brought back with Meguiar's Fiberglass Boat Cleaner or DuPont White #7 Polishing Compound. Wax the hull with a power buffer and paste wax once a year. The non-skid surfaces can be brought back to life with a lather of Tide or Mr. Clean. Be sure to follow up with lots of fresh water to avoid streaks on the topsides.
Avoid any metal filings on the fiberglass surfaces as they will leave rust spots. These spots can be removed with oxalic acid or Teak-Brite but first test a small area against bleaching out the surface color.
IX. WOOD SURFACES
The tiller has been well covered with a high-grade marine varnish at the factory. In order to maintain the original high luster and protect the wood, sanding and re-varnishing will be necessary when the gloss fades or bare spots appear. The rest of the exterior wood is teak, which is weather resistant due to its natural oils. Teak does fade to a dull gray, which, if objectionable, can be scrubbed clean with"Teak-Brite". Teak's natural color and texture can be preserved by applications of Weldwood's "Woodlife" or similar sealers.
Teak, when well varnished, produces the ultimate in a sailboat wood finish but requires constant loving care!
Ranger Sailboats' interest in both customer and product continues long after you have commissioned your Ranger 20. Within the limits of our specifications, the company's Parts Department is ready to serve your nearest dealer quickly and efficiently. All replacement parts or accessories are delivered through your dealer. He must have detailed information from you to be certain we send the parts requested.
This brings us to the end of our "Sailing Check List" and leaves only the securing of your Ranger 20. If we ran the list in reverse, adding only one item, your Ranger 20 will be ready for the next sail. This one important item is a GOOD HOSING. Nothing keeps a boat better than fresh water and the chamois. Use plenty of pressure, especially in the cockpit scupper, non-skid areas and metal surfaces. Turn to with sponge and chamois and you will be rewarded with a sharp, sparkling sailboat that is only matched by its comparable performance.
Good Luck and Happy Sailing
Ranger Sailboats
[ Ranger Club homepage | Technical Manual homepage | Return to top ]
|
|
|
| Fact Sheet | General Arrangement | Price Quote |
[ Ranger Club homepage | Technical Manual homepage | Return to top ]
Our thanks to John J. of Baileys Harbor, WI, sail #420, Rah, for generously providing this material.
© 1999, 2000 Ranger Fiberglass Boat Co. and Kent Ranger Sailing Association
. See the fine print.
Site development by Mark Kelsey, who accepts responsibility for everything on this site
that nobody else will own up to.
