Happy Vishu/Easter


Friday, in addition to being Good Friday, a big deal for all the Kerala Christians, was also Vishu, a big Hindu holiday.

Combined, these holidays, including Easter today, make for a long holiday weekend. Many places started shutting down on Thursday and won't open again until Monday. My first clue that something was going on was going on was Thursday night. After spending a frustrating hour at Maya's Internet place unable to connect my computer (this is the first place I found, several weeks back, where I had been able to reliably connect), I gave up. I needed to send an attachment to the department assistant at USF, so she could print on letterhead a recommendation letter out for a student who was applying last minute for a job. When I couldn't get my computer connected, I decided I would log on to one of the PCs and use my USB memory stick to transfer the attachment to the PC and then mail it. By now, I wasn't really frustrated, just sort of amused. It turned out that of the two PCs operating in this particular Internet shop, only one had a USB port. For some unknown reason, the computer with the USB port was not getting an Internet connection.

This is pertinent to Vishu because I decided I would wait until later when the kids were in bed to go out to the other Internet place, slightly further afield, where I had been able to connect reliably. I got a rickshaw just outside our flat, but as it approached the railway crossing a few kilometers away, the gates began closing. I told the driver I'd get out and walk across the tracks and get another rickshaw on the other side. Instead I wound up walking the last couple kilometers to the place. On the way, I noticed that the firecrackers we heard going off near our flat were not isolated. The entire area was ablaze with firecrackers and fireworks. Families were on their porches setting off small fireworks one at a time.

I got to the Internet place and wasn't surprised it was closed, since I sensed that the surrounding events must be something special. The next morning, on the way to the train station at 9:30, everything was shut down and there was virtually no traffic along a stretch that is usually teeming with cars, buses and trucks. We knew it was Good Friday, but it didn't seem right that the whole city would be quiet on account of a day recognized only by Kerala's Christians. It also didn't seem to make sense that people would have been setting off fireworks in recognition of Good Friday.

Eventually we figured out that Friday was Vishu, a holiday recognizing Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth. Families light fireworks the night before, and some continue setting them off until sunrise Friday, when it is said to be good luck if the family is visited by Lakshmi.

Friday afternoon, when we drove along a stretch of churches leading up to Wild Palms, it was impressive to see all the Christian sitting outside the churches, queuing to get inside for mass.

The other news from Saturday was that there were more bombings--a serious one in Jammu and two minor ones, with no fatalities, in Delhi. The man at Wild Palms who told us about it, when he saw our moderate amount of concern, explained that it was very minor and of no concern. This seems to be how Indians deal with bombings. It's a fact of life. Perhaps with such a large population, people feel either (a) as if the odds of them personally ever being in the vicinity of a bomb are small, or (b) as if a few deaths here and there, in a country of more than a billion, is no big deal.

Except for reading the paper on Saturday, we've been pretty much out of the loop in terms of local or global news. We don't get a paper delivered here like we did at Aswathy Gardens, and without the Internet our link to U.S. news sources is nonexistent.

Today is Easter. Our landlord, who is Christian, asked us last week if we were going to a Good Friday mass. Then he said that he didn't know of any English masses. So I used that as an excuse to tell him we wouldn't be attending mass. We'll be observing Easter in the flat by going swimming, having lunch and naps, going swimming again, having dinner, and then going to bed.


Posted: Sat - April 15, 2006 at 08:36 PM          


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