Sun - July 30, 2006Subsidy System ExhibitionLast weekend, Russell and I decided to go
and check out an exhibition about Vietnam's Subsidy System which was shown at
the Museum of Ethnology.
This system lasted from 1975 - 1986. I think the thing that really struck us both was that the scenes and situations within the exhibit, of course, seemed harsh, but that it was so RECENT. It is so hard to believe - on one level - that Hanoi lived through that such a short time ago. But on another level, it really informs so many aspects of life in Hanoi, so many attitudes. We came out of the exhibit having a bit more of an appreciation and understanding for the motivation behind Vietnamese behaviour we sometimes don't understand. We took so many photos, as it was such a fascinating exhibit. Maybe I need to set up a flickr account! I won't post them all here. A few things we thought noteworthy: * Even through real hardship, Tet was celebrated with enthusiasm, and the government provided for Tet products in its stores. * If you were able to purchase something (say a radio) you would need to take the ownership book to go and buy batteries! * Whilst you would imagine the food-stamp system would mean equality, it actually didn't. People at various levels of society got different stamps to allow more (or less) of each item. Of course, for some people who would otherwise have nothing, the stamps meant SOMETHING, at least. * Whilst many aspects of culture and art were limited, a poem commenting on the lack of results from Ho Chi Minh's vision was published in newspaper. Obviously, this was controversial! * The accountability of the government in regards to the lack of success of this system. Yes, I know it's easy to acknowledge this when you have shown a new style of government which is, undoubtedly, successful. And with the pending WTO accession, it does show the current government in a very good light. Nevertheless, I think it's very brave of the government to go ahead with a display like this and make past hardships known to a greater audience. Below is a photo of ration stamps. ![]() I really don't know whether many young people appreciate what their parents and grand-parents went through. But maybe it's better they don't. Their optimism and enthusiasm is what drives the success of the new Vietnam. Posted at 06:19 PM Sun - May 7, 2006Cyclo drivers after lunchSee how there appears to be a red team and a
blue team of cyclo drivers? They work for companies and the companies hire them
all out to hotels and travel agencies for group cyclo tours around town. So what
happens is that you get these convoys of cyclos going through the streets of
Hanoi. These guys are all lined up very close to the Sofitel Metropole Hotel and
I'm pretty sure the blue team belongs to the
Sofitel.
Then you have the different type of cyclo driver who is just kind of freelance. They tend to hang around the Old Quarter (or Old Streets, as Vietnamese people say) and some of the other touristy spots, hoping to pick up a fare. Walking along, you will often hear them call out, in a kind of sing-song voice, "Hello, cyclo". Funnily enough, Russell and I haven't taken a cyclo in Hanoi. We once caught one in Hue, but never here. It seems that older people or tourists only take cyclos now. They do look pretty comfortable to sleep in, though. ![]() ![]() Posted at 11:18 AM Tue - April 11, 2006Museum of EthnologyOne of my favourite Hanoi tourist sites is
the Museum of Ethnology. It's a little way out of town, but not too far. It's a
really well done museum giving fascinating insight into the different ethnic
groups in Vietnam. The museum is a great primer before you head to the Northern
or Central Highlands. And one of my favourite parts is the large outdoor
exhibition space behind the main building which has full-sized houses of the
different ethnic minorities. It's fantastic. You can walk in and around the
homes without disturbing anyone living there. The houses really allow you to
compare and contrast the different beliefs, traditions and lifestyles throughout
Vietnam.
This exhibition has been a work in progress, with new buildings regularly being added. And now, some more. A home away from home As part of an outdoor
exhibition at the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology (VME) another two ancient houses
built in Tho Xuan District, Thanh Hoa Province will be on display from later
this month. Phuong Lien
reports
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The two houses were built by carpenters in Dai Tai Village, Hoang Hoa District of the same province in 1906. In December 2005, the museum bought the houses from Le Duy Thiet and Le Duy Thu, two descendants of the previous owner of the houses, Co Hoi. Both houses include a nha ngang, an extension built to accommodate children, guests and store food. According to one of the museum’s archaeologists, Vu Hong Thuat, these sort of houses are few and far between in Thanh Hoa province. The good news is there will now be four such houses on display at the museum. “These ancient houses are valuable relics symbolising the traditional culture of the country. But the province has faced a threat of losing such houses over recent years due to a rising trend among locals to build large brick houses,” said Thuat. The provincial authorities, therefore, issued a ban on the removal or devastation of old styled houses. Co Hoi’s house was held under this ban until the museum asked the government to allow the house to be transferred to the museum for preservation. The Kinh ethnic group accounts for 86 per cent population of Vietnam and Kinh people can be found throughout the country, but are mainly concentrated in delta areas and houses located along the Red River Delta, Ma River Delta and Chu River Delta were of particular interest to the museum as they are part of a rich cultural past. After research trips to Ha Tay, Hai Duong, Bac Ninh, Nam Dinh, Ninh Binh, Hai Phong and Thanh Hoa provinces the museum’s researchers selected the first two houses in 2000, before securing the sale of the other two in December 2005. Both of the previously acquired houses have been at the museum since 2000. One is called nha chinh, which is a major house comprising five compartments for worshipping, receiving guests and accommodation, while the other is called nha hoc, a house with five compartments for teaching and study. Co Hoi inherited these houses, amongst others, from Le Duy Hoi, her great grandfather. Hoi was an intelligent man, well-educated and proficient in French and Chinese as well as an active revolutionist before 1945 and died at 1953. After the country’s land reform in 1954, the house was divided up and distributed to others, some who were relatives and some who were not. On a second trip up to Thanh Hoa province for the additional two houses, the VME team discovered an interesting detail: an engraved clock. When rays of sunlight are partly blocked by the roof, there are certain lines of sunshine on the yard. The family took advantage of it to engrave a line and note the time. So the yard has four “clocks” that were used to check the time during the four seasons. The carpenters of the Dai Tai Village have been renowned for their skill and were invited to reset the two houses at the museum. It is expected that a perfect traditional house of Kinh people, including nha chinh, nha hoc, nha ngang and kitchen, together with a brick yard paved in middle of the houses, a well, a house gate leading to village passage, which will be surrounded by a garden of trees banana, orange, lemon, star fruit, papaya, guava and grape fruit, will be completed and shown to public at VME by the end of April, making it a true home away from home. (from Timeout online (part of the Vietnam Investment Review), 11/4/06). Click on the link to see the website of the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology . It has the address and opening times, etc. Let me know if you go and what you think! Posted at 03:20 PM Sat - April 8, 2006Sun - September 25, 2005Hoa Lo PrisonHoa Lo Prison is located to one side of the
Hanoi Tower complex. In fact, part of the prison was destroyed for the
development of Hanoi Towers.
Hoa Lo Prison is now a museum where you can see what life was like for Vietnamese prisoners held there during French rule in Vietnam. It was then called Maison Centrale. There are life-sized models of people in the clothes and confines where they used to be kept. It's pretty sad stuff. Of course, there is also the guillotine. What happened during the American War is that some American POWs were held at Hoa Lo, and there is quite a lot of information about how well-treated they were. Clearly this is meant to contrast against the poor treatment of the Vietnamese in earlier times.
Note body basket next to guillotine... My "little" brother checked out Hoa Lo with me. Posted at 04:15 PM |