La La La!



A few weeks ago, Russell and I went for a bit of a weekend stroll through the Old Quarter, heading in the general direction of the cathedral on Nha Tho street. This area has plenty of restaurants so we figured we'd just wander and decide when we got there. We happened to head down Ly Quoc Su street, and went past a really lovely looking place that was new. We checked out the menu at the front of the restaurant, we thoroughly tempted, and headed in. If you read the article below (from Vietnam News), you'll probably understand why we've been there once or twice a week ever since. It's fantastic!

I, for one, can't wait to see the new brunch menu!!



Wayne’s world: Owner Wayne Sjothun has created a calm, cool, relaxing environment for diners.
Square meal: Succulent chicken breast perfectly complemented by crispy garden vegetables will bring your tastebuds to full-throttle delight. — VNS Photos James W Coates
La Restaurant & Bar
Address: 25 Ly Quoc Su Street
Tel: (84-4) 9288933
Hours: 8am - 11pm (kitchen closes)
Prices: VND40,000 - 150,000
General comment: Gourmet dining in a relaxed atmosphere.
(07-05-2006)
La turns a new culinary leaf in Ha Noi
Feel like the same old restaurants are going to seed? The grass is suddenly greener in the capital dining scene. Carina McIntosh sets out to pasture.
Like probably every newbie in any international city, I initially had trouble getting acquainted with the seemingly bewildering array of eateries dotting the urban landscape. After being involuntarily subjected for three years to the culinary capers of the Chinese – which is not always suitable for those looking for a great deal of variety in the tastebuds department – scouting out the capital’s bakeries, deli’s, coffee shops, bia hoi food and multitude of delicious local dishes (those condiments!) has been like going to heaven. But, according to people in the know, every heaven has a downside and sooner or later you’re going to get enough of the same old fare and will look for something new or different to coax your tastebuds back to full-throttle delight.
So, after realising that so many local eateries are mere copies of another one down the road or around the corner, my two dining companions and I decided to try a place offering something different from the usual run-of-the-mill grub and plonk.
Acting on something we had heard through the grapevine, we arrived at La Restaurant&Bar on Ly Quoc Su Street on one of the recent sweltering evenings.
What a pleasant surprise, and change from the monotonously regular! Man at the helm Wayne Sjothun (Ha Noi old-timers will remember him from Cafe Thyme) has managed to transform a typically Vietnamese style restaurant space (which can be awkwardly "long"or cramped) into one exuding calm and spacious coolness. I’m not sure if it was the beautiful wooden sliding doors and huge windows in front, or the high ceiling, soothing wall colours and tasteful decorations inside that had the best welcoming effect. Maybe it was the absence of a blaring television set or equally deafening "background" music. Thankfully, like just about everything else in this delightful establishment, the background music that was just that: in the background, with understated elegance.
From the word go, the service was impressive. We were swiftly shown to one of the spacious tables, where we immediately ordered cool beverages and were given menus to study. Having grown used to the tomes presented at most eateries in Ha Noi, La’s short menu caught us unawares – but not for long. Wayne seems to have covered all bases, and they certainly aren’t short on delectable treats.
"Our menu is small because we believe in keeping things simple, keeping things fresh. But this does not mean we compromise on quality. We try to source our ingredients locally as much as possible and that’s why only the freshest vegetables and salads make it onto our tables. We use imported beef and lamb, however, because the quality is exceptionally high," Wayne says.
After our drinks were served from the well-appointed bar and we placed our orders, a generous basket of fresh bread and real butter were brought to the table, accompanied by the house red wine. The quality of both the bread and wine had us swooning.
"We follow the old French method of making every meal a special occasion: pay attention to the bread, pay attention to the wine. The quality of these two things can’t be messed up," Wayne laughs in response to our oohs and aahs.
He explains that the bread is baked daily in the old French manner, according to an original, unique French recipe. The house wine that night was a Fleur du Cap 2003 Shiraz from the winelands of South Africa – full-bodied, but with a distinctive fruity, woody aftertaste. Again moving off the beaten track, Wayne boasts at least five South African wines in his excellent collection: "They sell themselves because they are of a consistently good quality."
Our meal orders were served with surprising speed, given their culinary contradictory nature – a sure sign of an organised kitchen running like a well-oiled olive press. One of my companions chose a thick and creamy soup as a starter (potato, roast garlic, Gouda and Parmesan – VND45,000) and confirmed that it was as delicious as the dish’s look and aroma had already intimated.
Our three main courses consisted of the Daily Special (on that day, roast leg of lamb with red wine, thyme, jus and sauteed nugget potatoes – VND115,000. The special on a return visit was braised ribeye of beef with red wine, pepper jus and herbed mashed potatoes – VND110,000) and two poultry dishes. They were pan-seared breast of duck with sesame, honey and soy (VND145,000) and chicken breast with orange, ginger and red wine reduction (VND140,000). According to Wayne, over and above a selection of Vietnamese dishes, his seafood menu also attracts a lot of attention, with the stand-out favourite dish the filet of salmon with passion fruit and Sauvignon Blanc.
I enjoyed the duck’s breast that was cooked to a perfect balance of texture and taste. It is easy to serve poultry that has become too dry through prolonged heating or standing waiting to be served, but it was clear that the chef’s personal attention to the finest detail did not allow that injustice to be visited on the taste extravaganza on my plate. What impressed me even more was the red wine reduction’s excellence – without the slight bitterness through too hasty heating that can blight the end product, but full of earthy nuances capturing the essence of the accompanying orange and ginger. In short, my meal was superb, and my companions enthusiastically agreed about theirs.
And then, the perfect end to any evening of extremely good dining: dessert. We managed only two, the apple tart and Parmesan crisp, and the chocolate espresso brownie tart, the latter made to an exclusive (and secret!) recipe which is bound to earn itself a loyal following of addicts. Both servings were beautifully presented and both offered an extraordinary taste sensation. Heavenly!
Wayne has plans for his establishment. Apart from following a seasonal trend with the menu, a weekend brunch will soon be served until 2pm. The specialty will be eggs benedict, he says, "but with a twist".
For those who want to twist to a different culinary beat than they did last summer, look no further! — VNS

Posted: Tue - May 9, 2006 at 09:44 AM          

©