Mon - May 29, 2006

Limits


I remember shopping sometimes in Australia and literally having a full-sized shopping trolley/cart filled to the top with groceries. Then they would all be loaded into the car to go home.

Here we don't have a car. We have a motorbike. The way people (including us) carry things around is to hang the bags on the small hook at the front of the motorbike. The thing is that you really can't hang that much (reasonably) on this hook and still get around okay.

So now when I go shopping I always ALWAYS shop with just the small basket. A full basket is about the right amount of stuff that can fit on the motorbike. So it's definitely a case of limiting what we buy in any one shop.

It's kind of easier if both of us go shopping because then I can hold some bags and sit behind Russell, who also has some bags hanging on the hook. It is a bit of a hassle though.


Posted at 10:30 AM    

Sun - May 28, 2006

Tay Tax


Russell and I call the extra price added to items we buy "tay tax". Extra money charged because we're westerners.

Today I just wanted to buy a hair clip. I found one I liked and it had the price tag of 37,000 dong. I handed it to the store owner and she picked up her calculator. I thought it was a bit strange because the package already had the price on it. But she handed the calculator to us: 50,000 dong. Huh? There is a price tag on the item saying 37,000. I pointed. She shook her head. I laughed. We walked out.

Wow, the nerve. I can understand charging more when foreigners don't know the price (like with bread, etc.). But when there is an actual price tag on the item.

I'm not going to get into a haggling fight over a hair clip. But I'm not going to entertain this woman's blatant tay tax attitude.

Posted at 07:29 PM    

Thu - May 18, 2006

Where's the cheese?


There used to be a quite annoying advertisement on TV in Australia that had the tagline, "Where's the cheese?"

I often find myself repeating just this question in supermarkets here. For quite a number of weeks, the supermarkets where we normally shop (Fivimart and Intimex) have been out of decent cheese. They have the horrible plastic, pre-sliced stuff which I really doubt has much actual cheese in it. They also have crappy (and I mean, really bad) imports of brie and the like: I've tried them and they are really hideous. BTW, this practice kind of annoys me as well: it's like other countries dump their horrible, low-end products here and wonder why brie and the like haven't become popular. Maybe send some of the good stuff man!

One thing that really irritates me about Hanoi supermarkets is that there is no guarantee that you will be able to get what you need, even if it was sold there last time you shopped. Cheese is the latest example, but there are many more. One day, there were potatoes. The next day, when I needed more, there were none. Tins of baked beans or soup. I can kind of understand fresh things made that day (like bread) running out. But long-life things should be pretty easy to keep stocked up. Especially when the out-of-stock thing lasts for weeks. The current one is those little dog-bone things. When Miss Bella has to do without, it's a sad day for everyone (well, it's a sad day for her, at least).

Funnily enough, a similar thing happens with restaurants. Russell and I tried a new place the other day. The menu was very large and we were initially quite impressed. But then, when several of our requests were met with a "we don't have", it got a bit tired. This wasn't the special, this was actual menu items. I guess it's a different expectation about reliability of supply.

I can report, though, that SOME supermarkets seem to have a good consistent supply and range. The best (that I know of) are:

* Citimart at Hanoi Towers. It has a pretty good range of cheese. Also has a nice selection of Australian wine. Has a lot of very western, hard-to-get stuff like custard powder, some spices, sauces, etc.
* Veggies on Xuan Dieu. I really like Veggies, but I hate its location. Unlike many people, I'm not really a fan of the West Lake area, especially the dreaded dyke road. This road is a total death trap as far as I'm concerned. However, the store itself is a little wonderland. They have lots of fresh meat from Australia, including the very-rare-in-these-parts lamb! The veggie selection (as you'd expect, given the name of the place) is excellent and includes a lot of herbs that I have never seen anywhere else in Hanoi. Also has an excellent cheese selection.
* Big C and Metro are huge supermarkets with a good selection, but are also a fair drive to get to. Metro is kind of weird because it's really like a bulk store and many things are sold in large amounts. The queues always seem to be enormous. It's like you need to plan on 1hr for travel, 1hr for shopping, and 1hr for queueing! Tedious!

So, after what seemed like an eternity without cheese, we stopped off at the Citimart and hit paydirt. The checkout people obviously thought we were a bit weird with one basket stacked with cheese. Hey man, you've gotta stock up when you can! So I promptly went home and made 4-cheese sauce with tasty, blue, mozzarella and parmesan cheese. Yum, happy days.

Posted at 11:13 AM    

Sat - May 6, 2006

Shoes=Good


I love these slipper-sandal-shoe things that are available in so many shops in the Old Quarter. They come in all sorts of styles and colours, including thong/flip-flop types with beads. They are really comfortable because they have a sort of straw matting as the base (although it takes a little getting used to at first). They are so vibrant and perfect for slipping on in hot weather. I do find that they wear out a bit and get water and dirt in them so then I just throw them away and get another pair. It may sound rah-ther wasteful and extravagant to just throw shoes away like that, but these ones cost me 30,000 ($1.96USD).

And no, they're not just for tourists. I have had quite a number of students wear these to class, although I have to admit that the new "Puma" thongs and other colourful plastic thongs are the big trend right now.


Posted at 10:05 AM    

Sat - April 29, 2006

Not the same


I was going to call my last entry "not the same" but I wanted to use it for this entry.

The reason is because being in VN is so different to being anywhere else. Vietnam was closed for so long and is a very "pure" culture. In Melbourne, Australia, where I'm from, we pride ourselves on our "melting pot" status. Any person of any colour, race, style, etc. could say they were from Melbourne, and it would be accepted. But in Vietnam, if we go to HCMC and say we're from Hanoi, we are immediately asked, "no really, where are you from".

It won't matter HOW long we're here. We've been here over a year and we walk down the street and get treated like we just arrived. Do we want postcards, t-shirts and photos with the basket-ladies? Nooooo! But we look western and therefore we will ALWAYS be foreigners. And always treated as such.

P.S. I do say, above, that I'm from Melbourne, but I was born and raised (in early childhood) in England. Our Vietnamese teacher insisted that that meant I was English. She also insisted that, since Russell's parents were English, HE was English. So, it means, in Vietnamese, that no movement of nationality can happen. If you think about the implications of that, it's kind of scary, but totally makes sense to me in regards to how Vietnamese treat foreigners.

Posted at 08:26 PM    

Not as Easy


My students often see/ask me about my transportation to work. Quite often, in the evenings, I taxi to work and Russell picks me up after class.

The students get kind of weird about me getting a taxi to work. A taxi seems like a real indulgence, really expensive. A total waste of money.

But then we talked about the situation. I asked how much it would cost to get a xe om (motorbike taxi) from my home to work. They said it would be 10,000 VND max. I said that the minimum price I have been quoted is 50,000 VND. I said that I can get in a taxi and the meter is running and I know the cost is going to be about 20,000 VND. OR... I can haggle with a xe om driver, get 50,000 at best as the price, get a drunken driver (most likely), and it's all a hassle. The students said to me, then, that they really understand why I take a taxi.

Later, in another class. The students were asking if I got "ripped off" (we were doing phrasal verbs and idioms) often. I told them that we have learnt to adapt. Supermarket shopping helps: prices on everything. But I do get really annoyed when someone tries to charge me 10,000 for a 1-2,000 piece of banh my (baguette). Or 80,000 for ONE orange. It happens all the time, but we have adapted. We know what we will pay and where we will buy things. It's okay. It's not the same as a native Vietnamese person, but then I really don't think that would be possible or worth the hassle. Occasionally we have a problem, but we live and learn and choose not to shop at that place again. It's cool.

I thought it was interesting for my students to understand how different their "tay" teacher was treated by other Vietnamese people. They were kind of annoyed on my behalf which I think is really considerate. I have some nice students :-)

Posted at 08:11 PM    

Sat - April 22, 2006

Products


Shopping in supermarkets in HN is an interesting proposition.

There are a whole range of goods from all over the world. Some are in English-language packages, and look "just like at home" (lots of chocolates fall into this category: M&Ms, Mars Bars, etc., and cheeses like Bega and Mainland Vintage Tasty, yum!). Others are from other countries, but often have 2 languages on the package, one of them being English (I've got Pantene conditioner right now from Thailand with Thai and English on the bottle). Then you've got your Vietnamese language products.

Whilst we often recognise the brand names and the products (although we regularly have "hmm, dau goi, is that conditioner or shampoo?" moments STILL!), the whole marketing guff is completely and utterly lost on us. The best we can understand is "moi" for NEW things (love new stuff!). But all the rest is just unintelligible (to us) nonsense. It's quite liberating to have so much advertising attempted-brain-washing completely pass you by.

The only problem is when the we-don't-understand thing goes too far. There are some products and brands in the supermarket about which we totally have no idea. What is it? What does it do? How do you use it? No idea. It's, in a way, like being illiterate. And it can be quite a humbling feeling.

On another note, in regards to products, are the canny strategies employed by the major companies like Unilever, etc, in VN. Take, for example, the bottle of Sunsilk shampoo below. In Australia, the RRP of Sunsilk shampoo is about $7.50 AUD or $5.60 USD for 350ml. In Vietnam, the bottle is bigger (400ml) and the price is much less: 35,000 VND or $2.25 USD. The scenario plays out similarly for many "big name" products we see in the supermarket. It totally makes sense. Make the products more affordable for Vietnamese customers, establish brand awareness and loyalty, increase market share and then, as spending power increases in VN (which it is doing all the time) prices and profits can increase as well. Worth the investment, I think. (Russell will tell you that Microsoft, for example, have THEIR strategy all wrong for VN: cut down product, not a low enough price, and a product that is very easy to source via "alternative" means, if you know what I mean).


Posted at 12:05 PM    

Mon - December 19, 2005

Smoking Part II


Interestingly, smoking and drinking are primarily men's domains in Hanoi.

Veeeeeeerrryyyy occasionally you see women having a beer (sip) at a special occasion, but generally not. And it is extremely unusual to spot a woman smoking (scandal!)!

But what we did notice in HCMC was a clear difference, with young and old women smoking and drinking a lot more than in Hanoi. It seemed that the "cool" culture of smoking had certainly caught on amongst young Saigonese women. Seeing 2 Vietnamese women (after coming from Hanoi), sitting together and drinking beer and smoking cigarettes, was quite shocking! Mind you, in Melbourne, it would hardly be an unusual sight - okay, maybe they would be drinking chardonnay instead!

Posted at 08:09 PM    

Smoking


Check out the following from VietnamNet:

Tobacco causes poverty for 1.3mil
17:18' 19/12/2005 (GMT+7)

VietNamNet – Ministry of Health’s statistics show that tobacco consumption causes 1.3mil people to fall below the poverty threshold.
 
Annually, cigarette sales consume around VND8bil, enough to build 20,000 health stations. Meanwhile, spending on cigarettes in poor families is 1.5 times higher than health expenses, according to statistics released on December 18.
 
In addition, long-term smokers often have to spend VND11mil/year on average for curing tobacco-related diseases.
 
The rate of smokers in big cities seems to have reduced, but has tended to increase in rural areas. The statistics also point out that if spending on cigarettes was used to buy food, 11.2% of needy families would escape from hunger and malnutrition.
 
Le Ha

Posted at 08:04 PM    

Wed - December 14, 2005

Hang Be Market


Hang Be Market is probably the most tourist-ed market in Hanoi because of its location right near Hoan Kiem Lake. It also happens to be our closest market (along with Hang Da). We tend to find that Hang Be is more "on our way home" than Hang Da Market, more often than not, so it's our regular market for meat and vegies. Vietnamese ladies I've spoken with tell me that the market is good quality, but expensive.

On weekends we often have a dilemma because we go out to have some lunch and want to pick up the makings of dinner on the way home. The only problem is that the market is effectively closed between 12 and 2pm. It steadily starts to pick up again after that, peaking in business around 4ish. So... do we hang around and have a looooong lunch, or go home and then come back out later. Yes, you can see the hard and complicated life we have ;-)

Mind you, if you do get there as the market comes back to life, you get the freshest meat. And I mean FRESH. There is this guy who chops up the pig on a rug in front of the vegie stall that I usually go to, so I have to go around near the vegie-lady so I don't stand in the middle of the pig!

Here is the pig. And the vegie stall and owner - no, she doesn't smile much. However, she has steadily reduced her prices as I have used her stall more and more (which says "relationship" to me!). Whilst individual stalls might have better produce for one particular thing, I think this lady has the widest and best range. She also teaches me the Vietnamese for things I buy, which is kind of cool :-)






Posted at 08:49 PM    

Fri - November 18, 2005

Big C


A few weeks ago, we headed out to Big C (yes, Big C) Supermarket, on the outskirts of Hanoi. Several students had recommended that I check this place out. My French student promised that they had a good wine store! Okay, so maybe that convinced us ;-)

It was so funny! It was the epitome of the VN saying "same, same but different". It had all the features of a western shopping centre, but... umm... different.

There was a big parking garage, "just like home"! It even had the various bays colour coded and numbered.



There was an escalator!! Yes, I know, we've been here too long when we get excited about seeing an escalator!



There were even people eating crappy take out food (food court, anyone??!).



Mind you, in the actual Big C supermarket itself, they had thit bo UC!! (Australian Beef!!!) and also Australian Lamb (frozen). V. exciting!


BTW, this centre is quite a way from the centre of Hanoi, and there is a huge load of housing development happening. Check it out.



P.S. And the wine store was great! We got a D'Arenberg High Trellis Cab Sav! Together with the Aussie beef, it was perfection!

Posted at 07:21 PM    

Thu - September 22, 2005

Egg-xiting


I like this unstructured way of transporting eggs. You can buy any quantity you like and they are a bit dirty from coming straight from the farm. They just throw them into a plastic bag, so be careful taking them home! I think they are about 1000 dong each - (well at least for Tay-girl me) - so that's about 62 US cents for 10 eggs.

In the supermarkets, they often sell eggs in packets of 10. No hang-ups about dozens or half-dozens here! They also don't seem to have any particular sizing happening. Becomes a bit dodgy when cooking when they ask for "3 large eggs" or "2 size 65 eggs". I just have a guess! Imagine asking the woman in the market: "but what size are your eggs, exactly?"!



Posted at 11:44 AM    


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