I remember shopping sometimes in Australia
and literally having a full-sized shopping trolley/cart filled to the top with
groceries. Then they would all be loaded into the car to go
home.
Here we don't have a car. We
have a motorbike. The way people (including us) carry things around is to hang
the bags on the small hook at the front of the motorbike. The thing is that you
really can't hang that much (reasonably) on this hook and still get around
okay.
So now when I go shopping I
always ALWAYS shop with just the small basket. A full basket is about the right
amount of stuff that can fit on the motorbike. So it's definitely a case of
limiting what we buy in any one shop.
It's kind of easier if both of us
go shopping because then I can hold some bags and sit behind Russell, who also
has some bags hanging on the hook. It is a bit of a hassle
though.
Posted at 10:30 AM
Sun - May 28, 2006
Tay Tax
Russell and I call the extra price added to
items we buy "tay tax". Extra money charged because we're
westerners.
Today I just wanted to
buy a hair clip. I found one I liked and it had the price tag of 37,000 dong. I
handed it to the store owner and she picked up her calculator. I thought it was
a bit strange because the package already had the price on it. But she handed
the calculator to us: 50,000 dong. Huh? There is a price tag on the item saying
37,000. I pointed. She shook her head. I laughed. We walked
out.
Wow, the nerve. I can
understand charging more when foreigners don't know the price (like with bread,
etc.). But when there is an actual price tag on the
item.
I'm not going to get into a
haggling fight over a hair clip. But I'm not going to entertain this woman's
blatant tay tax attitude.
Posted at 07:29 PM
Thu - May 18, 2006
Where's the cheese?
There used to be a quite annoying
advertisement on TV in Australia that had the tagline, "Where's the
cheese?"
I often find myself
repeating just this question in supermarkets here. For quite a number of weeks,
the supermarkets where we normally shop (Fivimart and Intimex) have been out of
decent cheese. They have the horrible plastic, pre-sliced stuff which I really
doubt has much actual cheese in it. They also have crappy (and I mean, really
bad) imports of brie and the like: I've tried them and they are really hideous.
BTW, this practice kind of annoys me as well: it's like other countries dump
their horrible, low-end products here and wonder why brie and the like haven't
become popular. Maybe send some of the good stuff
man!
One thing that really
irritates me about Hanoi supermarkets is that there is no guarantee that you
will be able to get what you need, even if it was sold there last time you
shopped. Cheese is the latest example, but there are many more. One day, there
were potatoes. The next day, when I needed more, there were none. Tins of baked
beans or soup. I can kind of understand fresh things made that day (like bread)
running out. But long-life things should be pretty easy to keep stocked up.
Especially when the out-of-stock thing lasts for weeks. The current one is those
little dog-bone things. When Miss Bella has to do without, it's a sad day for
everyone (well, it's a sad day for her, at
least).
Funnily enough, a similar
thing happens with restaurants. Russell and I tried a new place the other day.
The menu was very large and we were initially quite impressed. But then, when
several of our requests were met with a "we don't have", it got a bit tired.
This wasn't the special, this was actual menu items. I guess it's a different
expectation about reliability of
supply.
I can report, though, that
SOME supermarkets seem to have a good consistent supply and range. The best
(that I know of) are:
* Citimart
at Hanoi Towers. It has a pretty good range of cheese. Also has a nice selection
of Australian wine. Has a lot of very western, hard-to-get stuff like custard
powder, some spices, sauces, etc. *
Veggies on Xuan Dieu. I really like Veggies, but I hate its location. Unlike
many people, I'm not really a fan of the West Lake area, especially the dreaded
dyke road. This road is a total death trap as far as I'm concerned. However, the
store itself is a little wonderland. They have lots of fresh meat from
Australia, including the very-rare-in-these-parts lamb! The veggie selection (as
you'd expect, given the name of the place) is excellent and includes a lot of
herbs that I have never seen anywhere else in Hanoi. Also has an excellent
cheese selection. * Big C and Metro are
huge supermarkets with a good selection, but are also a fair drive to get to.
Metro is kind of weird because it's really like a bulk store and many things are
sold in large amounts. The queues always seem to be enormous. It's like you need
to plan on 1hr for travel, 1hr for shopping, and 1hr for queueing! Tedious!
So, after what seemed like an
eternity without cheese, we stopped off at the Citimart and hit paydirt. The
checkout people obviously thought we were a bit weird with one basket stacked
with cheese. Hey man, you've gotta stock up when you can! So I promptly went
home and made 4-cheese sauce with tasty, blue, mozzarella and parmesan cheese.
Yum, happy
days.
Posted at 11:13 AM
Sat
- May 6, 2006
Shoes=Good
I love these slipper-sandal-shoe things that
are available in so many shops in the Old Quarter. They come in all sorts of
styles and colours, including thong/flip-flop types with beads. They are really
comfortable because they have a sort of straw matting as the base (although it
takes a little getting used to at first). They are so vibrant and perfect for
slipping on in hot weather. I do find that they wear out a bit and get water and
dirt in them so then I just throw them away and get another pair. It may sound
rah-ther wasteful and extravagant to just throw shoes away like that, but these
ones cost me 30,000 ($1.96USD).
And no, they're not just for
tourists. I have had quite a number of students wear these to class, although I
have to admit that the new "Puma" thongs and other colourful plastic thongs are
the big trend right
now.
Posted at 10:05 AM
Sat
- April 29, 2006
Not the same
I was going to call my last entry "not the
same" but I wanted to use it for this
entry.
The reason is because being
in VN is so different to being anywhere else. Vietnam was closed for so long and
is a very "pure" culture. In Melbourne, Australia, where I'm from, we pride
ourselves on our "melting pot" status. Any person of any colour, race, style,
etc. could say they were from Melbourne, and it would be accepted. But in
Vietnam, if we go to HCMC and say we're from Hanoi, we are immediately asked,
"no really, where are you
from".
It won't matter HOW long
we're here. We've been here over a year and we walk down the street and get
treated like we just arrived. Do we want postcards, t-shirts and photos with the
basket-ladies? Nooooo! But we look western and therefore we will ALWAYS be
foreigners. And always treated as
such.
P.S. I do say, above, that
I'm from Melbourne, but I was born and raised (in early childhood) in England.
Our Vietnamese teacher insisted that that meant I was English. She also insisted
that, since Russell's parents were English, HE was English. So, it means, in
Vietnamese, that no movement of nationality can happen. If you think about the
implications of that, it's kind of scary, but totally makes sense to me in
regards to how Vietnamese treat foreigners.
Posted at 08:26 PM
Not as Easy
My students often see/ask me about my
transportation to work. Quite often, in the evenings, I taxi to work and Russell
picks me up after class.
The
students get kind of weird about me getting a taxi to work. A taxi seems like a
real indulgence, really expensive. A total waste of
money.
But then we talked about
the situation. I asked how much it would cost to get a xe om (motorbike taxi)
from my home to work. They said it would be 10,000 VND max. I said that the
minimum price I have been quoted is 50,000 VND. I said that I can get in a taxi
and the meter is running and I know the cost is going to be about 20,000 VND.
OR... I can haggle with a xe om driver, get 50,000 at best as the price, get a
drunken driver (most likely), and it's all a hassle. The students said to me,
then, that they really understand why I take a
taxi.
Later, in another class. The
students were asking if I got "ripped off" (we were doing phrasal verbs and
idioms) often. I told them that we have learnt to adapt. Supermarket shopping
helps: prices on everything. But I do get really annoyed when someone tries to
charge me 10,000 for a 1-2,000 piece of banh my (baguette). Or 80,000 for ONE
orange. It happens all the time, but we have adapted. We know what we will pay
and where we will buy things. It's okay. It's not the same as a native
Vietnamese person, but then I really don't think that would be possible or worth
the hassle. Occasionally we have a problem, but we live and learn and choose not
to shop at that place again. It's
cool.
I thought it was interesting
for my students to understand how different their "tay" teacher was treated by
other Vietnamese people. They were kind of annoyed on my behalf which I think is
really considerate. I have some nice students :-)
Posted at 08:11 PM
Sat
- April 22, 2006
Products
Shopping in supermarkets in HN is an
interesting proposition.
There are
a whole range of goods from all over the world. Some are in English-language
packages, and look "just like at home" (lots of chocolates fall into this
category: M&Ms, Mars Bars, etc., and cheeses like Bega and Mainland Vintage
Tasty, yum!). Others are from other countries, but often have 2 languages on the
package, one of them being English (I've got Pantene conditioner right now from
Thailand with Thai and English on the bottle). Then you've got your Vietnamese
language products.
Whilst we often
recognise the brand names and the products (although we regularly have "hmm, dau
goi, is that conditioner or shampoo?" moments STILL!), the whole marketing guff
is completely and utterly lost on us. The best we can understand is "moi" for
NEW things (love new stuff!). But all the rest is just unintelligible (to us)
nonsense. It's quite liberating to have so much advertising
attempted-brain-washing completely pass you
by.
The only problem is when the
we-don't-understand thing goes too far. There are some products and brands in
the supermarket about which we totally have no idea. What is it? What does it
do? How do you use it? No idea. It's, in a way, like being illiterate. And it
can be quite a humbling
feeling.
On another note, in
regards to products, are the canny strategies employed by the major companies
like Unilever, etc, in VN. Take, for example, the bottle of Sunsilk shampoo
below. In Australia, the RRP of Sunsilk shampoo is about $7.50 AUD or $5.60 USD
for 350ml. In Vietnam, the bottle is bigger (400ml) and the price is much less:
35,000 VND or $2.25 USD. The scenario plays out similarly for many "big name"
products we see in the supermarket. It totally makes sense. Make the products
more affordable for Vietnamese customers, establish brand awareness and loyalty,
increase market share and then, as spending power increases in VN (which it is
doing all the time) prices and profits can increase as well. Worth the
investment, I think. (Russell will tell you that Microsoft, for example, have
THEIR strategy all wrong for VN: cut down product, not a low enough price, and a
product that is very easy to source via "alternative" means, if you know what I
mean).
Posted at 12:05 PM
Mon - December
19, 2005
Smoking Part II
Interestingly, smoking and drinking are
primarily men's domains in
Hanoi.
Veeeeeeerrryyyy
occasionally you see women having a beer (sip) at a special occasion, but
generally not. And it is extremely unusual to spot a woman smoking (scandal!)!
But what we did notice in HCMC
was a clear difference, with young and old women smoking and drinking a lot more
than in Hanoi. It seemed that the "cool" culture of smoking had certainly caught
on amongst young Saigonese women. Seeing 2 Vietnamese women (after coming from
Hanoi), sitting together and drinking beer and smoking cigarettes, was quite
shocking! Mind you, in Melbourne, it would hardly be an unusual sight - okay,
maybe they would be drinking chardonnay instead!
VietNamNet – Ministry of
Health’s statistics show that tobacco consumption causes 1.3mil people to
fall below the poverty
threshold.
Annually,
cigarette sales consume around VND8bil, enough to build 20,000 health stations.
Meanwhile, spending on cigarettes in poor families is 1.5 times higher than
health expenses, according to statistics released on December
18.
In
addition, long-term smokers often have to spend VND11mil/year on average for
curing tobacco-related
diseases.
The
rate of smokers in big cities seems to have reduced, but has tended to increase
in rural areas. The statistics also point out that if spending on cigarettes was
used to buy food, 11.2% of needy families would escape from hunger and
malnutrition.
Le
Ha
Posted at 08:04 PM
Wed - December
14, 2005
Hang Be Market
Hang Be Market is probably the most
tourist-ed market in Hanoi because of its location right near Hoan Kiem Lake. It
also happens to be our closest market (along with Hang Da). We tend to find that
Hang Be is more "on our way home" than Hang Da Market, more often than not, so
it's our regular market for meat and vegies. Vietnamese ladies I've spoken with
tell me that the market is good quality, but
expensive.
On weekends we often
have a dilemma because we go out to have some lunch and want to pick up the
makings of dinner on the way home. The only problem is that the market is
effectively closed between 12 and 2pm. It steadily starts to pick up again after
that, peaking in business around 4ish. So... do we hang around and have a
looooong lunch, or go home and then come back out later. Yes, you can see the
hard and complicated life we have
;-)
Mind you, if you do get there
as the market comes back to life, you get the freshest meat. And I mean FRESH.
There is this guy who chops up the pig on a rug in front of the vegie stall that
I usually go to, so I have to go around near the vegie-lady so I don't stand in
the middle of the pig!
Here is
the pig. And the vegie stall and owner - no, she doesn't smile much. However,
she has steadily reduced her prices as I have used her stall more and more
(which says "relationship" to me!). Whilst individual stalls might have better
produce for one particular thing, I think this lady has the widest and best
range. She also teaches me the Vietnamese for things I buy, which is kind of
cool :-)
Posted at 08:49 PM
Fri - November 18, 2005
Big C
A few weeks ago, we headed out to Big C
(yes, Big C) Supermarket, on the outskirts of Hanoi. Several students had
recommended that I check this place out. My French student promised that they
had a good wine store! Okay, so maybe that convinced us
;-)
It was so funny! It was the
epitome of the VN saying "same, same but different". It had all the features of
a western shopping centre, but... umm...
different.
There was a big parking
garage, "just like home"! It even had the various bays colour coded and
numbered.
There was an escalator!! Yes, I
know, we've been here too long when we get excited about seeing an
escalator!
There were even people eating
crappy take out food (food court,
anyone??!).
Mind you, in the actual Big C
supermarket itself, they had thit bo UC!! (Australian Beef!!!) and also
Australian Lamb (frozen). V.
exciting!
BTW, this centre
is quite a way from the centre of Hanoi, and there is a huge load of housing
development happening. Check it
out.
P.S. And the wine store was
great! We got a D'Arenberg High Trellis Cab Sav! Together with the Aussie beef,
it was perfection!
Posted at 07:21 PM
Thu - September 22, 2005
Egg-xiting
I like this unstructured way of transporting
eggs. You can buy any quantity you like and they are a bit dirty from coming
straight from the farm. They just throw them into a plastic bag, so be careful
taking them home! I think they are about 1000 dong each - (well at least for
Tay-girl me) - so that's about 62 US cents for 10
eggs.
In the supermarkets, they
often sell eggs in packets of 10. No hang-ups about dozens or half-dozens here!
They also don't seem to have any particular sizing happening. Becomes a bit
dodgy when cooking when they ask for "3 large eggs" or "2 size 65 eggs". I just
have a guess! Imagine asking the woman in the market: "but what size are your
eggs, exactly?"!