Places in the Tokyo/Kanto: Harajuku

[Chiba] [Inage] [Kichijoji] [Shinjuku] [Shibuya] [Harajuku] [Yokohama] [Asakusa/Ueno]
[Ikebukuro] [Other places]

Heading south from Shinjuku past Takashimaya puts you in Yoyogi and walking a little further you reach Harajuku, itself on the Yamanote loop line and also the Chiyoda subway line and is a place which is effectively an extension of Shibuya (within easy walking distance of the latter) but has it's own distinctive character and a diverse array of wonders highlighting the various aspects of today's Japan, both old and new. Harajuku is undeniably the home of the youth and, along with Shibuya, the place where all the trends begin. Exiting the station, one generally heads towards the wide elm-lined promenade known as Omotesando and regarded as Tokyo's version of the Champs Elysees. It's lined with cafes, restaurants and fashion outlets and is always nice for a gentle stroll even though like everywhere else it is often overcrowded.

Walking along Ometesando, you reach the intersection with Meiji Dori (Avenue). This street is one of Tokyo's major arterials, running up the entirety of the west side of central Tokyo, bisecting Shibuya, then Harajuku, Shinjuku and Ikebukuro. This large intersection can be considered the hub of Harajuku, at least in the fashion sense. On one corner is a clothes shop, on another are restaurants and on a third is an outlet of 'Condomania' which, despite being quite small, really stands out (for some reason) and thus makes a good meeting place. Everyone knows it even if few will admit to entering. But even more well-known is the complex found on the other corner, La Foret (replete with a French name so it has to be chic) where all the fashions are decided. I rarely go there because it is too expensive and I have never been one for fashion as you know. Added to that, most of the places are aimed at girls, who of course buy a lot more than guys although Japanese guys do their fair share of buying and I think they are much more fashion conscious than the average Aussie bloke.

More important in my personal case is the building hidden behind La Foret, Tokyo International Church (TIC), a Seventh Day Adventist Church which Efaniel attends and I have often gone with her both this time and also when I was at Todai so I have a few friends there too. The church is quite large and must have once been larger because it supposedly used to incorporate the property which is now La Foret. There are two services held simultaneously, one in English and the other in Japanese, although there are communal sessions where both communities come together. In the English section there are many people from the Philippines, Latin America and Africa plus a few from America, Australia etc as well. The English language pastor is an American of Spanish descent with a Japanese wife and thus fairly well covers the different elements of the Church with his linguistic skills. Apart from that, he is one of the best and most interesting orators I have heard. I don't always agree with him but I always enjoy the sermons at the very least. Added to the Saturday programme, the TIC also has an English language school and bible classes and things.

Walking north along Meiji Dori from the Church you get to Takeshita Dori which runs back to Harajuku station and is always crowded. It is basically an eclectic succession of shops, mostly aimed at youths but with fast food restaurants and a convenience store and even a dentist, you simply don't know what you might find. While there is nothing really worth buying unless you like the stuff from the novelty shops, it is at least worth a look.

Having returned to the station, it is now time to look at the area beyond it to the west. This is the area which makes Harajuku so special for me because it is the largest area of greenery in the Tokyo area. Due west of the station is the Meiji-Jingu, a shrine dedicated to the Emperor Meiji who was the symbol of the modernisation efforts of Japan at the end of last century (about which I am researching). His remains are interred there as well. The entrance to the shrine is a huge torii (wooden gate) made from immense trees which had been imported from Taiwan. Beyond that is an extraordinary array of trees and also a flower garden. Rather than the shrine itself which no better than Heian-Jingu in Kyoto or Hachiman-Jingu in Kamakura, it is this outside area that makes it special for me. You can just walk around there for hours or sit an do nothing. Unfortunately I never seem to go there enough.

Further north is a place called the Meiji Jingu Outer Garden although it's a great distance away from the Inner Garden and the shrine itself. This area is home to the Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery which is worth a look and especially interesting for me since the pictures are from the Meiji Period and thus somewhat related to my research. Also found there is the huge National Stadium, built for the 1964 Olympics and to be used in 2002 for the World Cup. Right now it is the home of the Yakult baseball team (Tokyo's other baseball teams the Yomiuri Giants and Nippon Ham Fighters at the not so distant Tokyo Dome). The outer gardens also contain the Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium which is interesting more for it's architectural value (shaped like a samurai helmet) than the pool and gym). Just near here in Meiji Koen is a large flea market which has been known to provide some bargains.

Just below Meiji Jingu is Yoyogi Park, the largest in central Tokyo, built on the site of the old Olympic Village. Two stadiums remain from the Olympic time, including Yoyogi National Stadium which was an architectural and engineering marvel of its time although now a tad outdated. The park is a nice place to while away some time, walking around or just sitting down near the pond or whatever. Even more interesting for the tourist, however, are the locals, who dress up in all manner of bizarre clothing from gothic to punk and everything in between. They used to have the run of the place every Sunday when the adjacent road was closed for a parade but that was stopped in 1996 (meaning I never got to see it).

One more place for mention is the other major flea market site at another shrine, this one called Togo-jinja for Admiral Togo Heihachiro whose fleet was victorious in the Russo-Japanese War and was therefore enshrined for use as a propaganda tool during Japanese previous period of imperialistic ambition, along with Meiji-Jingu, nearby Nogi-jinja and the infamous Yasukuni-jinja.

While I like Shinjuku and Shibuya, Harajuku must be considered my favourite place in central Tokyo. Not just because it has more greenery than anywhere else, this place has the most variety of any place in Tokyo and is always alive without being as suffocating as Shinjuku and Shibuya can be. It is a place of fun and yet it can also be a place of relaxation. It's one of the few places in Tokyo that doesn't drain you and that is definitely a plus.

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[Chiba] [Inage] [Kichijoji] [Shinjuku] [Shibuya] [Harajuku] [Yokohama] [Asakusa/Ueno]
[Ikebukuro] [Other places]