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Ultralight
in Winter Six months
ago we tested American ÒultralightÓ equipment to discover if it worked in
Britain. Now Simon Willis investigates how light he can go in winter. Could it be
the porridge? As three of us
crunched our way through the fresh fallen snow on the Land Rover track from
Corrie Hallie, I became increasingly aware of a grumbling in the pit of my
stomach. I started wondering if
it was because my boss was with us for two days, TGOÕs Editor in Chief Cameron McNeish, along to take
photographs. In fact, the gnawing
only faded when I finally admitted to what my inner self knew all along, that
my partner Liz and I were heading out on a major winter backpacking
expedition with brand new, unproven equipment, much of which wonÕt be in the
shops until later this year. My
rumblings werenÕt breakfast, they were fear. ÒHow light
can you go in winter?Ó, was the simple question we hoped to answer. Last summer I helped test American
ÒultralightÓ equipment and ideas, originally devised for hiking the
California Sierra Nevada, and found they could successfully adapt to British
summer hiking (TGO-September 2001).
Techniques such camping under a tarp and walking into the long, light
evenings to stay warm worked well in mild weather but winter would be a very
different proposition. Dark from
4 pm until 8.30 am, with temperatures below -10 degrees Celsius and storms
forecast, weÕd need big sleeping bags, lots of food and good books to see us
through the long night. And a
tarp was out of the question! So we spent
weeks tracking down the lightest winter equipment, the bare minimum we could
safely Òget away withÓ, and it had to work in all conditions. For most of us, expensive outdoor kit
must last many years and handle whatever the elements hurl at us, with a
reasonable margin for error.
When it comes to picking gear, IÕm no expert but I know a man who is,
TGOÕs Equipment Editor Chris Townsend, who guided us through the process of
selecting our gear. In our pack
weights totalled 31lb and 26lb of which 7lb was 5 days of food (see kit
lists). Most worked for us, and
where it didnÕt, weÕve said so.
Since it was a genuine test, we carried some back-up gear but this
isnÕt counted in our weights because mostly it was not used (Liz switched
jackets for one day). DonÕt just
stick to our equipment choice, experiment and you may find better and
lighter. DAY
1 Corrie Hallie to Shenavall via
Achneigie 6 ml / 9.5 km ItÕs
amazing how friends, even loved ones, canÕt help laughing at misfortune. We werenÕt an hour into the walk
when, having strayed from the snow obscured track, I stepped into a deep bog
and freezing cold water gushed down the tops of my right gaiter. This was potentially serious, since I
wouldnÕt be able to dry that boot for five days. Each time I tried to stand, the fragile snow collapsed
around me until my other foot was also soaked. And what did my beloved and my boss do? They laughed and took photographs. Thanks guys. Footwear. We know
the human foot contains 126 ligaments that interconnect 26 bones, and yet we
still canÕt agree on the best footwear.
American ÒultralightÓ evangelists like Ray Jardine advocate hiking in
running shoes, calculating that removing 1.75 ounces from each boot can add a
mile to a hikers daily progress for no extra effort (and he was a NASA rocket
scientist). Simon. I happily wear Berghaus Storm fabric/goretex boots,
with all covering Yeti gaiters, winter and summer. They work well with strap-on crampons, even on mixed
ground, although I wouldnÕt climb graded routes in them. Liz. The Kayland Plume K were even lighter, a pair of hers
weigh less than one of mine.
Comfortable from the start, kevlar in the fabric supposedly resists
abrasion and a pair of all covering Extremities Terragaiters kept out the
snow. We couldnÕt fully test
whether theyÕd successfully take crampons but our trials were promising. After four days in very deep snow,
our feet were wet (mainly sweat) but superb Smartwool socks kept them warm. We arrived
at Shenavall bothy, pitched our tents and went indoors to cook. A diminutive fire was struggling to
impress itself on damp fire wood, and I propped my boots against the hearth
where they steamed like a couple of puddings. Ringed by dramatic mountains, Shenavall is one of the best
known bothies in the Highlands, itÕs Gaelic name Òan Sean-bhaileÓ means The
Old Town, and it once stood at the centre of a great hunting area. The clergyman Timothy Pont is
reckoned to be the first to draw maps around here in the late sixteenth
century, and he described it as an Òexcellent hunting place where deer do be
found all the year longÓ. His
maps show ÒfyrsÓ and other trees stretching from Gruinard Bay down beside
Loch na Sealga (ÒLoch of the huntsÓ), past Shenavall to Loch an Nid but today
the deer are still there, the tree are long gone. Tent. One of
the biggest weight savings one can make in summer is to switch from a tent to
a tarp. At Chris TownsendÕs suggestion, weÕd
considered the Kathmandu Trekking tarp/tent for this test and two new designs
of single pole, floorless tents, the GoLite Hex and Black Diamond
Betamid. WeÕd rejected these in
favour of a tough yet truly ultralight two person tent, the new Hilleberg
Nallo 2 Ultra. With generous
amount of room for two plus winter gear it weighs only around 2kilo. We suffered from condensation, and
once woke with worryingly damp sleeping bags, but this was probably due to
weather conditions. Records of
Scottish weather patterns frequently show a period of instability between
Christmas and New Year, and this year didnÕt disappoint. A dump of snow on Boxing Day followed
by rising temperatures, swelled the rivers. The wind swung into the North, gathered its strength, and
assaulted the Highlands with freezing storms. That night, there were two tents outside Shenavall, but by
the morning there was just one!
CameronÕs had been blown somewhere down the glen, and heÕd retreated
into the bothy. DAY
2 At Shenavall Timothy
PontÕs maps describe the ÒclassicÓ route across the Fisherfield Forest, from
Loch Maree to Carnmore by the Fionn Loch, then Shenavall and on to
Dundonnell. James Hogg, an
Ettrick shepherd took the same route in 1803 with a guide when he was looking
for a sheep farm. However, we
had intended to trace the route of Thomas Pennant during his ÒTour in
Scotland and Voyage to the HebridesÓ who in 1772 came ashore at Dondonnell
(also in Òtempestuous weatherÓ), then crossed to Shenavall, down Gleann na
Muice, over the Pollan na Muice to Lochan Fada, then left the high ground by
way of the Heights of Kinlochewe.
This should have given us the opportunity to climb six outstanding
Munros; Ruadh Stac Mor, AÕMhaighdean, Beinn aÕ Chlaidheimh, Sgurr Ban,
Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair and Beinn Tarsuinn, but things were not going
to plan. At ten
oÕclock in the morning the storm was still furiously swirling cloud and sleet
around Strath na Sealga, so with photography out of the question, Cameron
headed back to the road, while we worked out a different route. The swollen river barred access to
Gleann na Muice with a dangerously cold and deep crossing, while the wind had
plastered unconsolidated snow on the mountain sides. But with the map spread out on the
bothy floor, Liz spotted a track down a parallel valley from which we could
cross the Bealach na Croise and join our original route at the mouth of
Lochan Fada. Since we were
carrying food for 5-6 days, we could afford to wait a day at Shenavall and
still make it across to Kinlochewe. Outer Shells. We decided to compare the ÒsystemÓ of a major manufacturer,
in this case Berghaus, with one we put together using the lightest gear from
a range of companies. Simon. I used the Berghaus Paclite Goretex jacket and
trousers and, in my limited experience, consider it the gold standard for
foul weather backpacking. The
weight is surprisingly low, although with age, it can be prone to Òwetting
outÓ and allowing condensation to develop inside. Liz. Liz used the GoLite Fury, the new winter jacket from
the American company introducing many ÒultralightÓ products to Europe. ItÕs waterproof but thin, and in cold
heavy rain felt damper inside than it really was. For one stormy day Liz switched into a spare Goretex
jacket but went back to the Fury and was fine. Her trousers were Paramo CascadaÕs worn next to the skin,
which she liked once she got used to the feeling of no tight base layer. Paramo and Goretex make conflicting
claims about the performance of each others products, but the idea is that
the single Paramo layer is frequently lighter than the combined weight of
most base layers plus over trousers, although not in this case. Back in the
bothy we were on our umpteenth brew using a fascinating, if fragile, new
stove. Bought on the internet
(http://www.adventurelite.com/) itÕs like a trangia meths burner, but home
made from the bottoms of two beer cans.
With low temperatures forecast we also carried an MSR Dragonfly. Our luxuries were books, two head
torches, and Nalgene bottles as hot water bottles. Axes & Crampons. Essential equipment.
We didnÕt use them but because they were light they never seemed a
burden. Simon. The Camp
HL250 is the ski mountaineering version of a classic axe and somewhat lighter
than the walkersÕ version. Liz. This was the first Camp
210 45cm Axe in the UK and at just 205g, it is
astonishingly light. While it
wouldnÕt survive a hard mixed climb, itÕs fine for walking. ItÕs sold as a package with XLC 470
crampons, and together were half the weight of mine. DAY
3 Shenavall - above Loch an
Nid 7 ml / 11 km A thick
blanket of snow had settled overnight and the day dawned calm, still and
utterly spectacular, the sort of morning where the very air itself seems to
sparkle. Deer strolled outside
scratching the ground for food.
A couple of huge sheep, which had somehow avoided the summer sheering,
lumbered past the bothy door, their heavy matted coats looking like snow
encrusted dreadlocks. It was
immediately clear this was going to be a tough trip. Holes, boulders, streams, even the
path, were all obscured as the combination of wind and soft snow had
re-sculpted the landscape, flattening out such troublesome
imperfections. Yet the new
smoother lines appealed only to the eye, because the soft, powder snow was
the very devil to walk through, a glittering minefield of ankle twisting
surprises. Even on what should
have been a good track, it took us the best part of an hour to reach
Achneigie, and I was thankful to be carrying such a light sack. Warmwear. Simon. The Fury is also BerghausÕ new
sweater-type thin fleece covered with a windproof shell. One of their designers advised
putting a Polartec 100 Yukon shirt over it when the temperature
dropped, which sounded strange but worked. Stretch tights kept me warm and dried quickly, even after
I fell in a bog. Liz.
PatagoniaÕs Regulator fleece has a waffle pattern which cuts weight
yet traps heat and worked well for her, but gives little wind protection, so
she also wore a GoLite Bark, essentially a Pertex top. Accounts of
life at Achnegie, or Auchanewy as it was written in 1574, show there were
Alder and Birch trees here in the nineteenth century. Indeed, Achnegie means ÒField of the
place of woodÓ, but today only a few specimens remain. Here we swung south and did our best
to follow the mostly snow obscured stalking track along the bank of the
Abhainn Loch an Nid, reaching the loch itself just as the day took a turn for
the worst. The wind also changed
direction, and the hail that had been battering our hoods assaulted our faces
- goggles should have been on our kit list. It was decision time. We could abandon the attempt to reach Kinlochewe and head
North East, following a lower level track past Lochivraon and Loch aÕBhraoin,
back to the road. Or we could
continue in failing light and worsening weather, into inevitably deeper snow
and head cross country. Hats & gloves. They donÕt get the attention they deserve. We put together two systems which
worked well for us. Simon. Windproof gloves are fairly
warm even when wet but alone arenÕt enough for a multi-day hike. Shell mitts are usually bulky, but
Extremities Tuff Bags were light and flexible, and reduced the need for a
second warm pair of gloves. I
carried some anyway, and the Patagonia soft shells would keep me warm in most
conditions. I also carried too
much headwear, with a headband, hat and balaclava. Liz. Liz suffers from cold hands. She too carried windproof gloves with home made waterproof
over mitts. In addition, the
light Extremities Munro mitts were surprisingly warm even in the coldest
conditions. Jackets
fastened, hoods up, gloves secured.
We ticked off our check lists like fighter pilots, then decided to
battle the elements and go for it, stepping off the track and heading towards
the Bealach na Croise. The wind
had scoured this steep sided valley and blown all the powder snow down into
its base. Now progress wasnÕt so
much like crossing an icy minefield as stumbling down one blinding white mine
shaft after another. We tried to
pick our way between patches of high firm ground, relying on tufts of grass
or heather to find these islands in the sea of white. In one hour we had covered less than
one kilometre. TodayÕs total
mileage would be embarrassingly low! Camp warm wear. One of the basic principles of ultralight hiking is to take only
whatÕs needed, rejecting non-essentials without compromising safety. In summer an experienced hiker may
save a kilo by ditching a change of clothing but in winter every margin for
error must be greater, because the consequences of such errors are far more
serious. We each carried a spare
base layer (top and bottom), spare socks and a synthetic insulated
jacket. LizÕs GoLite Coal weighed
65g less than the new Berghaus Infinity and I preferred its simple design,
although both kept us warm. As darkness
fell, we used our hideously expensive titanium pan to shovel snow, clearing a
patch of land for the tent, but discovered the pegs would not stay in the
soft wet ground. I took apart our
three-stage trekking poles and drove the ends through the loops and guy ropes
into the soft earth, securely holding the tent in position. Unlike most poles, the height
adjusters for the Black Diamond Ôflick lockÕ poles are on the outside, so
they werenÕt damaged. Sleeping Bags.
After the tent, this is likely to be the heaviest thing in your
rucksack but only you can decide how heavy it must be. Simon. I sleep cold, and what I consider a summer bag, Chris
Townsend could get away with in winter!
On his advice I had intended to use a brand new Rab Quantum 600, the
Pertex shell of which is meant to be 30% lighter than conventional
Pertex. But forecasted
temperatures of below -10 degrees Celsius persuaded me to switch to my old
Mountain Equipment Snowline and its 750g of down. The penalty was extra weight, and IÕd have been fine in
the Rab Quantum 600 if IÕd slept in my clothes. Liz. The PHD
700 sleeping bag was excellent and Liz appreciated its uncluttered
design. It has no zip, and when
she first climbed into it at home she felt it was cut too tightly around her
legs and torso. However, on the
freezing hill, this became a positive advantage. DAY 4
Above Loch an Nid - Kinlochewe
10 ml / 16 km Overnight,
another couple of inches of snow had either fallen or drifted into the glen
so we knew today would be the hardest walking so far. In fact, the only thing more
difficult than wading through thigh and sometimes waist deep snow is finding
words adequate enough to describe the frustrating tedium of the task. I feel sorry for polar explorers who
do this day after day then, once safely home and tucked in front of the
laptop, are faced with the even great struggle of writing an interesting book
about it. It took us
about four hours to cover four kilometres, crossing the Bealach na Croise,
then contouring around to Loch Meallan an Fhudair. The distance looks nothing on the map but thatÕs Scottish
winter walking for you. But now
the weather was on our side, and as the clouds parted, a wonderful golden
winter light flooded the peaks and crags which buttress Lochan Fada. This was the magic moment of the
walk, and when I look back on this journey, this is view that my minds eye
will have captured, framed and hung inside my head. It was also the moment when I knew for certain we were
going to make it to Kinlochewe that day. Rucksacks.
Simon. For this test I intended to use the Berghaus Extrem Pro,
the closest thing they had to a light rucksack, yet even with a strengthening
bar removed it still weighed 1345g. However, it wasnÕt big enough, and was still
significantly heavier than the new larger, GoLite Land (1005g). While IÕve been impressed by the other
GoLite rucksacks, this one hurt my waist and nipped my shoulders. Liz. The Gust
(500g) has become LizÕs favourite rucksack. Large enough for this trip, it carried as good as ever. ItÕs not
often I enjoy reaching a boring old Land Rover track to walk out, but this
time I could have kissed the ground.
It was easy to follow, the snow was less than four inches deep, and
all we had to do was put one foot in front of the other. We strolled down the road past the
Heights of Kinlochewe singing Christmas carols as we went. Even though we climbed none of our
intended mountains, or followed our planned route, or even arrived on the day
weÕd expected, it had been a great backpacking trip. And a light one too. Information Map: OS Landranger sheet 19 Accommodation: Start - Dundonnell Hotel 01854 633
204 (they drive hikers to and
from walks) Sail Mhor
Croft Hostel 01854 633 224 Finish - Kinlochewe Excellent B&B
ÔCromasaigÕ 01445 760234 Owners
Tom & Liz Forrest also run an outdoor shop in the village. Kinlochewe
Hotel 01445 760253 Transport: Westerbus,
Gairloch 01445 712255 C&E Taxis,
Dingwall: 01349 866007
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