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28 February 1999

 

A Tale of Two Italys

 

Whether you prefer the wonders of nature or man, Italy is hard to beat. SIMON WILLIS enjoys ritzy style and rugged landscapes in Sardinia.

 

Sardinia is two islands in one. A stylish and exclusive coast with a rough and rugged interior. Simon Willis takes a two centre holiday to explore the very best of both worlds.

 

There is a practical theory which helps when searching out the good things in life. If you want the best haircut, find the person who does the hairdresser's hair. Likewise, you'll get good treatment from the surgeon's doctor, the dentist's dentist, and so on. So when you find the place where the Italians go on holiday, you'll be sure of warm sun, perfect beaches, good food and a large slice of style. Welcome to Sardinia.

 

Although encircled by excellent beaches, one achingly beautiful part of Sardinia's coastline has become the exclusive social hub of the island. Discovered by what we used to called the "Jet Set", it's now the playground of the Concorde crowd. But they hide themselves away on their white pearls of ocean going ostentation leaving plenty of space for us mortals to enjoy the most stylish stretch of Mediterranean coast, the Costa Smeralda.

 

And yet there is a second Sardinia. It's not on any maps. Indeed, most visitors never find it at all. It's a place where old magic is still conjured for special occasions; where New Year falls on the first of September; where a rebellious, almost lawless, streak still holds sway. It lies behind the silken coastal fringe and deep in the volcanic mountains, where the people are Italian only in name and Sardinian to the bone. They have resisted the attempts of every invading army to tame them. From the Romans to the Phoenicians to the package tour terrorists, all have stuck to the coastline and left the mountain folks well alone.

 

We wanted to explore both Sardinias in one two centre holiday, from the pinacles of pampered luxury to the stark summits of the Supramonte range. We packed hiking boots alongside our best designer labels, and headed first into the land of the bronzed and the beautiful.

 

The Costa Smeralda

 

In July and August the "Closed" sign is hung on the city gates of Rome and Milan, and the smart set sail to the North East corner of Sardinia. The Costa Smeralda is Italy's idyllic holiday retreat, with some of Europe's most luxurious hotels tucked discretely amongst the hundreds of coves that nibble into the coastline. Soft, sandy beaches shelve gently into a sea the colour of a kingfisher's wings; so blue, so clean, and so beautiful it's a struggle to believe this is not the Caribbean.

 

The Aga Khan discovered the charms of the "emerald coast" in 1965 when his yacht sought shelter in one of its bays and he liked the place so much, he bought it. Development has been controlled with a fanatical environmental concern; buildings must be low, conform to strict designs, have a specified area of open land around them and every rock and plant disturbed during their creation must be replaced. The area has a private police force, private refuse collection and private fire service with its own helicopter. Homes are strictly reserved for the seriously rich.

 

The centrepiece is Porto Cervo, not so much a town as a theme port, purpose built to look like a quaint, old fashioned fishing village, without the irritating smell of fish. Everything is painted one of a hundred shades of teracotta. This is where the rich and famous park their yachts and come ashore to sweep through Prada, Gucci and Bruno Magli. Sharon Stone and Goldie Horn were sighted while we were there. Surprisingly, coffees and drinks at the terrace cafes cost no more than I'd expect to pay in any similar resort, although simple lunchtime snacks were disappointing.

 

Less surprising is that Sardinia's most expensive hotels are on the Costa Smeralda, places such as the Cala di Volpe. Were a theatrical designer asked to create a mixture of Venice and Tuscany it would look something like this hotel. Under pan-tile roofs, each room surveys a spectacular view across an otherwise hidden bay, around which timber bridges and walkways connect restaurants, pools, gardens and bars. The presidential suite occupies its own tower, complete with swimming pool. The hotel was full, and anyway we couldn't afford to stay overnight, but we booked a table at dinner to sample a little of this luxury.

 

The meal was as theatrical as the hotel design, the performance directed by a skilful Maitre d' and starring some of the wealthiest people I'll ever rub tables with. "From England are you?", boomed a Texan oil man. "We have an apartment at the Connaught - we try to get there for a month or so each year. Oh you're not from London. So where exactly is Northumberland?". The meal was good but the inter-table entertainment was excellent.

 

Another evening, in a different hotel bar where I could afford more than a mineral water, I started chatting to Marion Puddu from England, a representative with one of the tour companies who has lived on the island for twenty five years. Back home she'd met and married a Sardinian, "and eventually, they always return", she told me. "There are resorts springing up all over the island", Marion explained, "but most people still prefer to come to the North East because the balance is right here. The planning restrictions have meant tourist development has been handled sensitively, and people appreciate that when they get here". I asked Marion to give me a quick run down on the various places in the immediate area, and the next day, we checked them out for ourselves.

 

Just a few miles around the coast from Porto Cervo is Baja Sardinia. It's a busy, family orientated seaside resort, cheaper than Porto Cervo and with non of its reserve, but consequently non of its style. We kept driving and eventually came to Porto Rafael built by Count Neville Rafael, who was part English, part Spanish. It too is constructed around a marina, and is smaller than many other resorts with a pleasant, somewhat arty atmosphere. It is quite a distance from the other resorts, but I rather liked its out of the way feel. The nearby town of Palau is the main ferry port for Corsica and the islands of Maddalena and Caprera. Marion had described Palau as having "all the charm of Folkestone", although a friend, who is a fanatical wind surfer, thought it superb and rode his board all the way across to Maddalena, dodging car ferries. Driving South from Porto Cervo we came to Porto Rotondo. Because it's just outside the building restrictions of the Costa Smeralda, tourist development has been less restrained, but it's still tasteful and not too crowded. There are many well designed apartments here and, in early June, only a few were occupied.

 

Our real challenge on the Costa Smeralda was to find an elegant hotel with good food at a sensible price, and I'm delighted to say that we succeeded. Barely one kilometer from the million dollar yachts of Porto Cervo is the Hotel Le Genestre. It has the ubiquitous teracotta paint job and quaintly fake rustic beams, but non of the stuffiness of the outrageously expensive hotels like the Cala di Volpe. Trur, the setting is not as grand, and the service considerably slower, but we could enjoy the good food without feeling we had to chew every mouthful fifty times to extract maximum value for money. Set in large wooded grounds on a headland, it's a five minute walk from a small private beach, the perfect spot for a 'lie-around-in-the-sun-with-a-book' type of holiday.

 

So that's what we did. Eventually, our pulses slowed and, just about the time that quiet relaxation was starting to change into 'what-are-we-going-to-do-today', it was time to pack up and seek out the second Sardinia. We were heading for the hills.

 

The Mountains

 

Were it required to do so, the steel door to the council offices in the town of Orgosolo could be removed from its hinges and used, quite effectively, to strain pasta. It appears that, when one of the locals had a disagreement with his elected representatives, rather than wait for due democratic processes, he reached for his rifle and ventilated their front door.

 

This is a town of powerful emotions which are displayed for all to see. But rather than take up arms, the locals usually reach for their paint brushes. Since the 1960's virtually every flat, vertical surface has been used as a forum for political protest and huge murals now depict three decades of disputes from around the world. To wander these streets today is to stroll through a huge open air gallery chronicling the worlds greatest political controversies.

 

There is really only one hotel to stay in around here. Others have tried to open but for one reason or another, there have always been... how shall I put it.... complications. Better to leave it at that. The Su Gologone is family run, and a long established part of the community. It began as a restaurant, and as more people wanted to stay after their meal, more and more rooms were added until there are now more than sixty. Navigating between them is helped by the paintings and sculptures which decorate rooms and corridors, all by local artists, some from Orgosolo. The white washed walls are built onto the side of a gently sloping hill and enclose beautiful gardens, through which we strolled to the pool, tennis court and most importantly, the restaurant.

 

Su Gologone is a bastion of traditional Sardinian cooking, a place where the old ways are kept alive for locals and visitors to enjoy. Meals begin with warm sheets of wafer thin unleavened bread being placed on the table cloth. Called "pane carasau" or "carta da musica", the bread was carried by shepherds as it keeps fresh for a long time. Home made pasta would be followed a plate of meat, either lamb, kid or wild boar, slow cooked in old fashioned, wood fired ovens. Local people ate alongside tourists, and chatting to them later, they insisted that the dishes really are authentic fare, "But today no one else knows to cook them. Or has enough time".

 

There are daily organised excursions into the mountains, in which a Landrover does some of the hard work, then the legs are left to tackle the rest. One of these trips took us close to the summits of some of the major peaks in Sardinia's Supramonte range. We followed a rough, high level track through broken limestone terrace to what looked like an abandoned shed but which turned out to be a shepherd's summer house. Our guide, Fabrizzio, explained he was a friend of the owner who was out tending his goats, but wouldn't mind if we looked inside. Dipping under the low beam which supported a corrugated iron roof, held down with rocks, we entered the one room hut. Inside were two beds, a sturdy table and, hanging above it, a rack of ten slowly maturing goats cheeses. In the centre of the floor was a rough stone fireplace, but no chimney. Fabrizzio explained the door would be opened to allow the smoke to escape, "But not too much. It's good for the taste of the cheese".

 

Another walk took us to one of Sardinia's hidden historical sights. All over the island are tower-like structures called Nuraghi, which were built from 1400 BC and vary greatly in function and complexity, from fortresses to watch towers to simple dwellings. We were heading for one of the most famous called Tiscali, an expedition which involved climbing part way up the side of a mountain and then dropping into a hidden side valley. Squeezing through a gap between two huge rocks, we found ourselves in what had long ago been a giant cave, until the roof had collapsed. Here, in the safety of the enclosed, overhanging rock walls, the ancient Sards built their community, and now we could wander around the remains of their homes. Trees had grown in what was probably once a thriving square, but in their cool green light, Tiscali still seemed a special part of this special island, a spiritual centre of the second, secret Sardinia.

 

Travel Brief

 

Packages: Package tours seem better value than arranging flight and hotels independently. Several UK companies offer various locations in Sardinia including Citalia: 0181 686 5533; Magic of Italy: 0990 462442; Costa Smeralda Holidays: 0171 493 8303; Holiday Options: 01444 881414; The Italian Connection: 171 486 6890; Italian Escapades: 0990 437227; Italian Expressions: 0171 435 2525 Italiatour: 0171 605 7500; Sardatur: 0171 242 2455; Voyages Ilena 0171 924 4440

 

Flights: Charter flights from various London airports to Olbia (near the Costa Smeralda), Cagliari and Alghero.

 

Time to go: The short season is June to September. By October, many of the hotels are closed. It's worth avoiding the peak season, mid-July to end of August, when the resorts are most expensive and crowded.

 

Transport: Public transport is infrequent so it's worth hiring a car. It's often cheapest to arrange it through the tour operator when booking.