|
||||||||||
|
|
ÒRockyÓ ItÕs the
strong silent type, the American National Park which connoisseurs would
prefer to keep to themselves.
Simon Willis explores by car and on foot. I have long
been convinced that National Parks have personalities, and nowhere is this
more clear than in the United States.
Yellowstone and Grand Canyon are the experienced elder statesmen of
the American National park system, still retaining their impressive physiques
and the first stop for many visitors.
Yosemite is the flamboyant show off, and its spectacular granite domes
and soaring cliffs draw so many summer visitors the valley must sometimes
close. So itÕs not surprising
that a park which comes across as the strong silent type, is largely
overlooked by European visitors.
It is neither the biggest, nor the highest, nor the longest, so fickle
tourists whoÕre drawn to superlatives make the mistake of thinking there is
nothing worth seeing and drive on past.
For those of us who spend time in Rocky Mountain National Park, thatÕs
yet another blessing. ÒRockyÓ as
the locals call it, is really two parks in one. Most visitors are content to drive the Trail Ridge Road
and marvel at the scenery on either side, watching it pass through the frame
of their car windscreens. But
this park holds its secrets close to its heart, and the best way to enjoy
them is to pull on a pair of boots and head into the back country. Trail
Ridge Road Three
million visitors come to the park every year, and most do nothing more than
drive fifty miles along the highest continually paved road in the United
States. It passes through
spectacular alpine environments and climbs to more than twelve thousand feet,
so anyone who does step out of the car will find the altitude breath taking. Walk away from the road corridor and
the reward is superlative scenery, even solitude, but hikers are asked to
stick to the maintained trails because the fragile alpine tundra plants grow
only one inch in a hundred years.
A careless group of people can destroy centuries of growth in a matter
of minutes. The road
crosses the highlight of this park, the Continental Divide. This geographic line splits North
America in two, on one side, the rivers run East to join the Mississippi,
while on the other, they reach the Pacific or die in desert sands. The Trail Ridge Road also connects
two towns which sit either side of Rocky Mountain National Park. Grand Lake lies to the West but most
visitors enter, as they always have done, from the town of Estes Park. It is named after the first settler
in the area, Joel Estes who moved with his family here in 1860. It was said his wife Patsy swept the
cabinÕs floor with the wings of eagles.
Six years later, their cabin was converted into visitor accommodation,
and Estes Park has been a tourist town ever since. Since there are no motels or hotels in Rocky Mountain
National Park, visitors seeking a comfy bed should stay in one of the towns
where thereÕs a wide range of accommodation. Camping For anyone
used to the American idea of Òroughing itÓ in a fully serviced camper van,
the five main campgrounds will come as a shock, since there are no showers,
laundry facilities, electricity, or water hook-ups. But the sites themselves are in superb, sheltered
locations and once the day visitors have left the park a very special calm
descends, bringing with it a quiet beauty only found after dark among
seriously large mountains. In
summer, National park Rangers give campfire talks. In fact, the only better place to camp is on one of the
backcountry sites, but you have to hike there and a permit is required to
limit the number of people who overnight in any one place. Hiking With 300
miles of trails, the only problem is where to start. The staff in the Beaver Meadows
visitor centre offer knowledgeable advice on where and how to view wildlife
such as elk, big horn sheep, moose and beaver, and theyÕll also suggest easy
day hikes which give the body time to acclimatise to the altitude. ÒFlatlandersÓ, as the locals call
those of us who live at sea-level, should spend at least one night at around
8,000ft before venturing higher.
Once lungs and legs are feeling fit, hikers tend to have two worthy
backcountry goals, Longs Peak and the Continental Divide. The
Continental Divide - Flattop Mountain A free
shuttle bus drops hikers at Bear Lake, the starting point of many popular
trails, and the water tap here is the last clean supply all day. The summit of Flattop Mountain is
just eight miles away, but getting there involves climbing from 9,400 to
12,300 feet in temperatures which, during summer top 80 degrees. Due to the thinner air thereÕs a
greater risk of sunburn so a wide brimmed hat and plenty of sun screen are
essential. The trails are obvious
and well made so youÕd think getting lost would be quite a challenge, but
people do. As the trail climbs,
the vegetation changes from lush forest to low bushes and then to sparse
grass. You will be
watched. The small furry animals
which poke their noses from behind the rocks, looking and squeaking like
angry little hamsters, are called Pikas and the higher sections of the hike
are accompanied by their regular high pitched calls. Anyone who
reaches the summit of Flattop Mountain will be ready for a rest, and there
are few better places than this, perched high on the spine of the United
States straddling the Continental Divide. It is an awe inspiring spot. Face North and the Rocky Mountains stretch into Canada and
Alaska, then turn around and imagine them marching South all the way to the
Mexican border. The hike to the
summit of Flattop Mountain took me just three hours carrying a large
rucksack, and I continued down the other side, walking the twenty one miles
to Grand Lake across the whole park in a single day, but itÕs not a route IÕd
recommend to novice hikers. Those planning to return to Bear Lake might wish
to take a side trip from Flattop Mountain along the Continental Divide to
Hallet Peak, returning the way they came, but be off the ridge before
afternoon when sudden lightning storms can turn it into natureÕs shooting gallery! Longs
Peak The
centre piece of the park, and the prize for many hikers is the summit of
Longs Peak, 14,255 feet above sea level. Whatever day of the week you choose to tackle the fifteen
mile round trip you will not be alone, as it is one of the most popular
routes in the whole. Before
mid-July and after October only mountaineers, fully equipped for winter, can
attempt the peak, but within the summer weather window we mortals can attempt
whatÕs called ÒThe KeyholeÓ route.
Standard practice is to start very early in the morning from Longs
Peak Area Ranger Station, hike by torch light, and try to go up and down in
one punishing fifteen hour day.
I chose to break the climb into stages, partly to acclimatise and
partly because I wanted to camp at the famous ÒboulderfieldÓ backcountry
campground. Of course, this
involves lugging a tent, sleeping bag, stove etc. up to 12,760 ft but the
reward of watching the sunset over the park was worth the effort. The next day
I scrambled up to the rocky gap which resembles a keyhole, then worked my way
along a well worn route to a series of tilted slabs that make reaching the
summit a little tricky, and getting down slightly harder. The climb from Boulderfield Camp to
the summit took three hours, the descent two hours, and while Longs Peak does
not have the most beautiful of summits, it is impossible to deny its utterly
superb location. I looked down
on the huge chain of the Rocky Mountains which rise abruptly from the great
plains, the far off city of Denver shimmered in the distance, while the
magnificent ramparts of Rocky Mountain National Park rose towards me on every
side. It might
seem rugged, but in todayÕs world such places are alarmingly fragile. Paradoxically, theyÕre both helped
and hindered by the twin, often conflicting, responsibilities of the American
National Park System, which is designed not only to conserve the land but
also to promote its enjoyment.
Rocky Mountain National Park succeeds precisely because of its split
personality, allowing most visitors to appreciate some of its beauty from the
comfort of their cars, while saving the best for those whoÕre prepared to
expend a little effort to discover what lies beyond the tarmac. Simon
Willis travelled as a guest of British Airways Travel
Brief Getting
There British
Airways (0845 773 3377) www.britishairways.co.uk flys daily to Denver. Rocky
Mountain National Park is an hour and a half drive north of Denver. Shuttle
busses from Denver Airport to Estes Park - reservations essential. Estes Park
Shuttle Tel 970 586 5151 Emerald
Taxis 970 586 1991 Shuttle
busses from Denver Airport to Grand Lake - reservations essential Home James
transport 970 627 8400 Accommodation Estes Park
Visitors Centre Tel. 970 586 4431 Grand Lake
Chamber of Commerce Tel. 970 627 3402 Camping There are
five park campgrounds, non have shower, laundry, electrical, water or sewage
facilities. During summer, stays are limited to seven days at most. Reservations are required at Glacier
Basin and Moraine Park campgrounds Tel.1800 365 2267 Backcountry
Campground permits Tel. 970 586 1242 Sprague
Lake Handicamp is designed for disabled people, accommodating up to ten
campers with up to five wheelchairs. There are five wheelchair access trails
- details in the big print publication ÒAccess RockyÓ Tel. 970 586 1242 When
to go July to
October is peak season when temperatures are highest, although snow storms
can sweep in at any time. Afternoon
thunderstorms are frequent during August, so be down from peaks and know what
to do if caught in lightning.
Strong winds are common above the tree line. Guidebooks
& Maps Good
websites - http://www.nps.gov/romo/ http://www.explore-rocky.com/ Most will
be available in Estes Park. There are no shops in the National Park. Hiking
Rocky Mountain National Park, by Kent & Donna Dannen Trails
Illustrated map No. 200 Rocky Mountain National Park Families
looking for easy and moderate hikes consult A Family Guide To Rocky Mountain
National Park by Lisa Gollin Evans (Pub The Mountaineers 1991) |
|
||||||||