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Paddle Power Mountains too busy? Put down the backpack and pick up a paddle. Simon Willis sets his sights on sea kayaking. (The
Herald, Weekend Living 12.2.05) There was
a light Southerly breeze blowing across the islands of Eigg and Rum, as six
of us eased out of Elgol and into one of the southern most jaws of the Isle
of Skye, the one with the most vicious looking teeth. The jagged, broken rock of the Black
Cuillin draws mountaineers from all over the world but, for the first time, I
was heading into its heart with no rucksack on my back and no boots on my
feet. Instead, I was wearing
what looked like a sixteen foot long, bright yellow, plastic banana - a sea
kayak. The
paddle from Elgol into the Cuillin is one of the best in Europe. The last time I'd walked to Coruisk
I'd carried unappetising, dehydrated food and the bare minimum of equipment,
just to cut the weight of my rucksack.
Now as we glided across the water of Loch Scavaig, I had a roomy tent,
an inflatable mattress and a selection of tasty meals all packed into the
water-tight hatches of the sea kayak.
Gordon Brown of Skyak Adventures, who guided our trip, estimated that
they could hold the entire contents of a giant expedition rucksack and the
sea, not my shoulders, would take the strain. People
like Gordon, who've been paddling for years, struggle to explain why, all of
a sudden, so many people want to start this sport. Instructors at Glenmore Lodge, Scotland's National
Training Centre, reckon demand for sea kayak instruction has increased every
year for five years and a trade association estimate puts participation up
25% over the same period. Visit
Scotland recently studied which adventure sports held the most potential for
overseas visitors, and sea kayaking was in the top three. No-one really knows why, but its
popularity growing fast.
"More
women over the age of fifty are taking up sea kayaking than knitting",
explained Ian Miller of the Scottish Canoe Association, "and what's
more, they're usually good at it!"
Now, I don't know where he found that statistic, and the seas
certainly aren't full of frantically paddling mothers, but he makes an
important point. Beginners love
sea kayaking because it's so easy to get started. Provided you're not too fat to fit into a kayak, just
about anyone can pick up a paddle and make progress. Trust me, it really is that easy. Of course, you quickly need to learn
how to turn, stay upright and, when that fails, how to get back in your
boat. But a good instructor can
start you on a learning journey that will take a lifetime to complete. And the places you'll visit along the
way are simply stunning. Places
like Coruisk, the Òwater corrieÓ of Skye. Man would struggle to design a more perfect harbour than
this natural shelter. Fins of
rock curve and intersect, shielding the bay from the worst of the southerly
weather while leaving two cannels through which small boats can slip. We dragged our kayaks onto the gently
sloping rock, set up camp and cooked as the sun dropped behind the
Cuillin. Being
among these massive mountains is inspiring and, at the same time, a little
intimidating. Perhaps this helps
to explain why sea kayaking is the new sport of choice for people who love
ScotlandÕs wild open spaces. It
feels like hill-walking as it used to be, before Munro bagging reached
epidemic proportions. There's
that long-lost sensation of humility in the face of powerful natural
forces. Overnight camps return
to being special times in isolated places. Best of all, you never follow a well-worn trail. No one ever left a footprint on a
wave. Grey
domed heads rose slowly from the dark waters, the following morning, the
black eyes of the seals swivelling to watch us leave their harbour home,
heading for the island of Soay.
Gavin Maxwell bought this island in 1945 to set up a shark fishing
business. We ate lunch beside
the rusting remains of a huge steam engine heÕd used to render down the shark
livers into a valuable oil, then picked our way around his crumbling factory
and sheds, all of which are gradually being reclaimed by nature. ItÕs a sad place in a spectacular
setting, and I was pleased to leave and paddle back to Elgol. The west
of Scotland is a "world class" destination for sea kayaking. Just think about that. Few people realise that a sporting
resource of international calibre, one of the very best places in the world
in which to practice this fast growing pastime, is right here on our
doorstep. Adventure sports
magazine in the United States regularly carry articles, written by Americans
who've "discovered" the joys of sea kayaking in the Outer Hebrides,
Skye or the Summer Isles. Ian
Miller of the Scottish Canoe Association explained what made Scotland so
special. "You can kayak in
Alaska or the Milford Sound and the scenery will be breathtaking, but the
water will probably be flatÓ he told me. ÒScotland's combination of islands, sea conditions
and weather gives it a uniquely adventurous edge." Perhaps that's why more of us
are starting to discover it too. TRAVEL
NOTES It's best
to start by taking a course, and progress by joining a kayak club. Glenmorelodge.org.uk 01479
861256 Skyakadventures.com 01471
833428 USEFUL
INFORMATION Scottish
Canoe Association 0131 317 7314 www.scot-canoe.org/ Top Five Sea Kayaking Routes ScotlandÕs
first sea kayaking guide book is published this week, in which authors Doug
Cooper and George Reid pick the countryÕs top 50 paddles. We asked Doug and other guides to
narrow it down further to five routes on ScotlandÕs west coast. Scottish Sea Kayaking Ð 50 Great Sea
Kayak Voyages is published by Pesda Press, priced £19.99 (This
could easily have been another ÔTop 50Õ list, but there wasnÕt space in the
newspaper!) 1. Seil Island Route: The
"Bridge over the Atlantic" famously attaches Seil to the mainland.
From Balvica or Cuan paddle clockwise.
Catch the north-going tide through Cuan and Easdale Sounds. Sea eagles can be seen on the sea stacks
on the west coast. Entry to the
Clachan Sound is tricky to find and many end up at Ardfad by mistake. Go under the Atlantic bridge and the
east side of Seil is a gentle paddle.
If the tide is flowing south, go round Luing instead. Guide's opinion: Ken Lacey, SeaKayakScotland.com (01852 300589) "The view across to Mull is
stunning, and give this route a big ocean feel without being too far from
land." 2. Arisaig Route: Launch
at Arisaig harbour and keep close to North shore of this large sheltered
bay. Cross the North Channel and
head into the maze of small rocky islands that keep out the largest
waves. There are many pristine,
white sand beaches on which to eat lunch. On a sunny day, the shallow, crystal clear water is better
than the Caribbean. Guide's
opinion: Doug
Cooper, Instructor Glenmore Lodge
(01479 861 256) "This is where many of our clients
kayak on the sea for the first time.
The isolated, island beaches feel remote, yet they're quite close to
shore. This is a fantastic area which is justifiably popular route for sea
kayakers of all abilities". 3.
Loch Scavaig, Skye Route: Launch
at Elgol and paddle towards the classic view of the Black Cuillin
mountains. You can eat lunch or
camp overnight at Camasunary beach or at Loch Coruisk. Return via abandoned shark fishing
station on island of Soay. Guide's opinion: Gordon
Brown, Skyak Adventures (01471
833428)
"I paddle into Coruisk at least ten times each year, and every
time is different. It's one of
the world's great sea kayaking routes". 4. Summer Isles Route: Perfect
paddling in a tight collection of islands. The west side is usually the most
interesting, where the Torridonian sandstone has been weathered into cracks
and caves. The island of Tanera
Mor is entitled to print its own stamps, which are sold from a shop in the
north end of the main harbour. Guide's opinion: Andrew
Johnston (01445 712761) "I went on honeymoon here!
These islands are as challenging as you want them to be, because you
can venture further and further out, and can almost always find something new
to explore" 5.
Barra Route:
There's
nothing much west of the Western Isles before Canada, so weather can be
wild. Launch on south Vatersay beach, cross to Sandray and a fabulous
beach in the south east corner. Explore narrow caves, one kayak wide
and watch cormorants and shags on the steep cliffs. Return along the
east coast in calmer water. Guide's
opinion: Chris
Denehy, Clearwater paddling
(01871 810 443) "It's a great paddle to view
wildlife. As well as seals and puffins, we regularly see basking sharks
and this year were visited by an Orca." |
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