SimonWillis.co.uk

 

HOME

NEWSPAPERS

TGO

OTHERS

PHOTOS

VIDEO

BBC

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Saddle Sure

Dust, sweat and suicidal chickens are part of a Mexican mountain-biking holiday, but when it comes to sampling a culture at close quarters, SIMON WILLIS would opt for two wheels over two legs every time.

 

Chickens were an unexpected hazard. With all the cactus thorns lying around I thought we'd suffer a few punctures, and imagined we'd be chased by the occasional guard dog, startled by a group of mountain bikers rolling into town. But not once did I envisage falling foul of the local fowl. It is not easy to slalom a fast moving, fat tyre bicycle through an equally fast moving blur of beaks and feathers, especially when they attack from the side. In tiny Mexican village after village we wondered, why did the chickens chose the precise moment of our arrival to cross the road? Had word been sent down the trail that sweaty cycling Gringos were rolling into town, so be sure to open the chicken coup? Quite possibly.  The locals thought our whole adventure hilarious.

 

Organised mountain bike holidays have become the favourite way for adventurous folks to visit far off places. It is the new type of trekking, two wheeled rather than two legged. The bike trekker can cover much greater distances, enjoying more views, meeting more people, and in short, experiencing much more in a single day. Bulging calf and thigh muscles are not essential, since anyone fit enough to tackle a trek can switch to a saddle, although it's worth doing some practice pedalling at home if only to toughen up the backside. And unlike trekking, should it all get too much then it's easy to jump in the support truck.

 

"Mexico is great for mountain biking", announced the youngest of our three guides, Inieo Vallarta, as our rusting Dodge fought its way out of Mexico City. "We have big mountains, volcanoes, giant cactus forests, and flat, open plains. And we're going to ride them all". Six of us had signed up for this holiday, on which we'd travel in a sweeping arc from the capital down to the South coast. We couldn't cycle the huge distance involved, so the truck would carry us from one of Mexico's amazing landscapes to another, where we'd climb on our bikes and spend all day exploring. Large groups usually use hired coaches and public transport, but our team of nine managed to squeeze into one vehicle and drive in something close to-comfort.

 

Four wheel drive back up is the essential difference between these two types of trekking. In some countries it's a jeep type truck, in others it's a lorry, but in every case, the vehicle carries all the heavy gear between overnight stops. It's a mixed blessing. On the one hand there's no feeling of exploiting the porters who have to haul luggage and tents between campsites, but that means less money goes into the local economy. What's more, those riding at the rear of the group can get fed up of having a noisy engine roaring away just behind their back wheel.

 

Destinations are also dictated by this machine. There's no point riding off into the wilderness if the support truck can't get there too. Trekking companies, which wanted to diversify into mountain bike holidays, quickly realised it involved much more than pedalling long established trekking routes, like the Annapurna Sanctuary or Everest Base Camp.  Most of these are totally unsuitable for bikes. So in they have completely re-thought, not only the routes, but also the countries in which they operate. Morocco and Spain are now favourites with two wheel trekkers with Mexico quickly gaining in popularity.

 

Our Mexico ride began with a tough climb through a forest onto the shoulder of a volcano. It shouldn't have been too tiring, but the heat combined with an altitude of over ten thousand feet, to leave us sweating and fighting for breath. Hot and sticky, we dived into a fast, narrow descent and encountered what would become a feature of Mexican mountain biking - dust. Not the normal sort of dust which puffs up from the back wheel when you jam on the anchor; this dust lay as deep as snow. It obscured even the biggest boulders, drifted into corners, and billowed into dense clouds in which it was impossible to breath, let alone see which way to steer.

 

Emerging in Tepoztlan, we instantly became the focus of every ones attention as we rode through the market. We waved heroically, assuming the locals were impressed that we'd ridden over the volcano. It was not until I looked in the mirror that I understood why they'd been staring. The black volcanic dust had adhered to my sweat, and formed a crisp crust which covered my legs, shorts, shirt and especially my face. I had two blanched circles around each eye where my sunglasses had been.  I looked like a panda that had been mugged.

 

My clothes stood upright by themselves in the corner of the hotel room, while I tried to shower off the grime, but only succeeded in blocking the plug hole. Instead I jumped into the swimming pool and thrashed about for an hour. As I emerged, Inieo flashed his wide Mexican grin and exclaimed in mock horror, "But you're White!!"

 

You'll notice I mention the words 'Hotel' and 'Pool'. Such words rarely appear on normal trekking itineraries where the closest one gets to a shower is a basin of warm water outside the tent. However, such luxuries are more likely on a mountain bike trek, simply because you usually travel closer to civilisation. You're also much more likely to need them. Mountain biking is a much, much dirtier, sweaty business than hiking, and even the most rugged outdoors type welcome the occasional chance to clean up and collapse into a proper bed. In ten days cycling, we were scheduled to camp for just three nights and, although I enjoy tent life, that really was quite enough.

 

And yet, these were the times I felt closest to Mexico. The Dodge had deposited us far from the hotels of tourist trail and we'd then spent the day riding even deeper into the Sierra Madre mountains, arriving in the small but quietly prosperous village of San Fernando. After the bruising heat of the parched Mexican plains, it was sheer delight to escape into the cool green shade of this steep sided valley. Ignacio Gomez, our head guide, explained that the Spaniards had brought the first people into these mountains to work the gold and silver mines. As we rode along the river bank, past a group of children bathing naked in the slow moving water, he explained "Today the village makes leather", and pointed through the trees to a man up to his knees in water, furiously working a hide. "They're not rich", said Ignacio, "but they're certainly not poor".

 

That night, a campfire had been lit foolishly close to our nylon tents, making sleep too dangerous to contemplate, so we sat with the locals until the flames began fade. My Spanish improved with every mouthful of mescal, and I found myself talking to the leather tanner, trying to explain where we were headed and why we chose to go there by bike. Thinking back, I doubt I succeeded, but then, I'm not sure I really knew myself.

 

Mexico is not a typical adventure holiday destination. At first glance, it doesn't seem as intrinsically exotic as the Karakoram or the Andes, but I've rarely packed as much into a three week holiday, which combined stunning tourist sights with spectacularly remote areas. From sightseeing in Mexico City, to visiting ancient mountain top temples in Oaxaca, to surfing at Puerto Escondido, we did all the usual stuff - and then the bikes allowed us to escape and meet Mexico face to face, up close and personal.

They took us to places visitors never go: too far from local bus routes for the hippy backpackers; too rough for adventurers in rental cars; and simply too far from anywhere for hikers on foot. Our cycles negotiated old, barely passable roads through forests of giant cactus, into dusty villages where the typical family run-about had a hoof at each corner, and where people hadn't seen a white face in years. This felt further off the beaten track than most treks in Nepal.

 

It was while I was chatting with the leather tanner in San Fernando, gradually succumbing to the mescal, that I had realised two wheel trekking is doing great things for our relationship with the rest of the world, entirely by accident. You could describe this phenomenon as 'reverse cultural imperialism', but what it boils down to is giving the locals a damn good laugh.  For years, trekkers and other tourist types have strolled around far off mountain ranges, carrying little more than cameras and expensive goretex jackets, relying on locals to do all the hard work. As a result, these people have been in awe, if not of us then, of our spending power.

 

Mountain biking blows our cool. We wipe away all first world pretensions with our sweat, and choke the air of false superiority with a lung full of dust. The locals thought we were strange, now they know we're crazy, because there's no way they'd do anything this daft. And then they smile. And then they pass the mescal.

 

A version of this article first appeared in Sunday Times 5 July 1998.  Simon Willis travelled as a guest of Exodus Biking Adventures

 

 

Equipment

The climate will largely determine what equipment you'll need, and the tour company will provide a detailed list, but the following items are essential.

* Helmet. Most companies insist that clients wear a helmet when riding.

* Cycle specific clothing. Whether it's a shirt, jacket or shorts, it's worth having equipment which is right for the job. For example, jackets made for cyclists are usually more breathable than those designed for hikers, and are cut with longer backs which don't ride up when bent over handlebars. Shorts have padding which reduces the bottom bashing. Baggy cycle shorts rather than the tight lycra variety are recommended by some companies for trips outside Europe as they're less likely to offend local people.

* Cycle gloves. Hanging onto the handlebars, the hands take quite a battering and padded gloves offer some protection. If you buy a pair with a cut-away back, don't forget to put sun cream on this sensitive skin.

* Sunglasses. As well as keeping out the ultra violet rays, they protect against dust, grit and insects. Make sure the lenses are shatterproof.

* Water bottle / bladder. On most trips, large quantities of water are essential to avoid dehydration. Water bottles are fine, but mounted on the frame of the bike, the spouts quickly get coated in dirt and dust. Drinking bladders hold more liquid, and are carried on the back in small rucksacks, with a tube coming over the shoulder from which you can suck a mouthful without stopping.

* Daypacks / bum bags. Large bum bags can hold all that's needed for a day's mountain bike trekking. However, few can carry a drinking bladder, and I find the waist strap digs into my stomach after a few days, particularly if I'm carrying the weight of a camera. Berghaus make an excellent mountain bike rucksack called the Nitro (for stockists tel: 0191 415 0200) which is designed to pull the weight close the body but still leave enough room for air to circulate and sweat to escape.

 

Flying with a Bike

There are many ways of packing a bike to go on an aircraft. Some cyclists use no packaging at all and just turn the handle bars in line with the bike and take off the pedals. Others use specially made bike bags. However, most bike trekking companies say it's best to pack the bike in a large, cardboard bike box. New cycles are delivered to bike shops in these boxes which are then thrown away.

This is the packing advice given by Exodus:

* Remove pedals & deflate tyres

* Remove front wheel. Remove quick release from front wheel and tape to bike frame. Place a fork brace (available from cycle shop) in front fork.

* Loosen allen bolt on stem and take out handlebar & stem, leaving it attached by the cables. On some bikes it is better just to remove the handlebar.

* Remove the seat post

* Place bike in box (you may have to have the fork facing backwards)

* Put in seat post, pedals etc. Make sure they are attached to something and cannot fall out of the box, which might get ripped

* Pad the handlebar and place it on the chain side of the bike

* Place front wheel on the non chain side of the bike

* Seal box and mark it clearly with name, address, destination and "Fragile, Handle With Care".

 

Your local shop might pack your bike for a charge of around £5, but you'll have to do it for the return journey, so you may as well learn.

 

 

the bike in a large, cardboard bike box. New cycles are delivered to bike shops in these boxes which are then thrown away.

 

This is the packing advice given by Exodus:

 

* Remove pedals & deflate tyres

 

* Remove front wheel. Remove quick release from front wheel and tape to bike frame. Place a fork brace (available from cycle shop) in front fork.

 

* Loosen allen bolt on stem and take out handlebar & stem, leaving it attached by the cables. On some bikes it is better just to remove the handlebar.

 

* Remove the seat post

 

* Place bike in box (you may have to have the fork facing backwards)

 

* Put in seat post, pedals etc. Make sure they are attached to something and cannot fall out of the box, which might get ripped

 

* Pad the handlebar and place it on the chain side of the bike

 

* Place front wheel on the non chain side of the bike

 

* Seal box and mark it clearly with name, address, destination and "Fragile, Handle With Care".

 

Your local shop might pack your bike for a charge of around £5, but you'll have to do it for the return journey, so you may as well learn.