Texts from Cambodia
Report on
Cambodia: a text sent by Trevor on January
2003 from Phnom Penh
January
2003
Well, I was woken up this morning by a Shirley Temple Nguyen outside my hotel room, singing: "Oh Suzannah, oh don't you cry for me, for I come from Alabama with my banjo on my knee..." We watched TV5, good Québec documentaries and then had a serious argument about human cloning...but that's another story. So, what better day to finish and send my report on Cambodia. I hope that you enjoy.
Trev
We entered Cambodia on Dec 30 with uncertain thoughts of what to expect. We heard that things were difficult there: bad roads, poverty, undeveloped infrastructure, some insecurity...so why were we going and what did we expect? Well, of course there are the ruins of Anghor Wat, a wonder of the world, and hmmm... the ruins of the Khmer Rouge, a tragedy of the world... but that was about it for expectations. Anyway, Cambodia is between Thailand and Vietnam and we had a visa for Vietnam for the 19 January so why not check out Cambodia on the way?
For about $6 US we had a ticket all the way from Bangkok to Siam Reap in western Cambodia, where Anghor Wat is located. And for $28 US more a visa service. We were told that it was the same cost as if we got the Cambodian visa ourselves at the border. Wrong; it would have been about $20 if we'd done it ourselves. (Wait until we get back to Bangkok and have a chat with the travel agent!)
The road from Bangkok to the border was smooth and easy in a very comfortable air-conditionned bus. (Except that a German tourist jumped on the bus first and reserved all the best seats for his friends.) Then the fun started. We waited two hours in Thailand while our tour guides got us the visas. The border itself was like a zoo, a big market, lots of buses, people everywhere. We were told to be very careful of our baggage due to pickpockets & thieves. We tried walking back to back, armed with mosquito repellant spray, but... It was a fairly long walk, first to the Thai immigration post, then to the Cambodia immigration but all went smoothly. We then had to take a Cambodian bus, however, and it was much older, dusty and loaded with mosquitoes, why would anyone invent such nasty creatures? Without the air conditionning, many travellers assumed that they could smoke ON the bus. These Europeans are so backward! (partial apologies to our European friends!) Pierre and I ensured that they understood that smoking on the bus was not appropriate. (The small group that we confronted got off the bus at the meal stop and rented a minivan for the last half of the journey)! Hummph!
The road was very rough, very dusty and the trip very uncomfortable and we only arrived at Siam Reap at about 9 p.m., having departed Bangkok at 7:30 a.m. We later read in a guidebook that the late arrival is deliberate so as to maximize the chances that we tourists will stay at the guesthouse where we are dropped off...who wants to check around for guest houses at 9 p.m. after a 13 and a half hour bus trip? Actually, we wound up staying at the same guesthouse the whole time as it only cost $4US per night for the both of us and we didn't find anything cheaper or better anyway. The fact that there were about a dozen young guys with motorcycle taxis to drive us around at any time had nothing to do with it.
We quite enjoyed the town of Siam Reap and found much to do besides seeing the ruins. But even though the cost of a visit to Anghor Wat is $20/day + $20 for a guide (highly recommended) + $20 for a rented car it has to be done! Who would go to Egypt and NOT see the pyramids? Who would go to Lethbridge (my home town) and NOT see the bridge? Anyway, el cheapo here found a guide with a motorcycle and with one of the guys from the hotel for Pierre we had the day for only $54. (Hey, more than a day's rent and two beer) Fortunately, the US bombing of Cambodia and the wars didn't damage the ruins and much restoration work has been done through international aid. Many of the main temples are well preserved. Unfortunately, almost no local funding goes into restoration or preservation. Management of the entire site is contracted by the Cambodian government to a Vietnamese petroleum company???? Of the $US 3 million profit in 2002, $2 million went to the Vietnamese company and $1 million to the Cambodian government ministers and friends, apparently for Mercedes cars and villas.
Our favorite temple was Ta Prohm, the one with giant tree roots winding over, under and through everything. It was very impressive. But after about 8 hours of walking around in the blazing sun, we had seen enough and called it a day. (Remember that we had already seen millions of temples in Thailand and expecially Burma) Unfortunately, our guide spoke French like I speak Chinese. When Pierre would ask him a question, he would laugh and turn away! I mean when Pierre would ask him a serious question! He wanted to tell us the entire history of Buddhism and even the earlier Hindu beliefs that were the basis for the earliest temples of Anghor Wat. There were about 200 metres of bas relief etched into the wall encircling Anghor Wat and he wanted to explain every section...in detail). We finally got tired of it, since we understood about 10% anyway, and then we got silly and started saying to each other: "Well Wat the f..." trying not to show any Anghor towards the guide. "Oh, wat ever" So we lost a bit of the sense of grandeur of the place that might have helped if we had a good guide. Still, the ruins are a magnificent reminder of the history of the entire region of southeast Asia, particularly because they have survived the recent history of war and US bombing. Other similar ruins in the country haven't been so lucky. They've been damaged by war or more recently dismantled and smuggled out of the country for profit (by both the Khmer Rouge and the current Cambodian military! (I saw a documentary about this on TV in Montréal...so it must be true!)
Other attractions in Siam Reap were a floating village on the edge of a large lake and a butterfly café. The latter is a peaceful café with a huge net enclosing numerous flowering plants, trees and a wide variety of butterflies, a place to get away from all the noisy motorcycles and harassing vendors and sip a tropical flower cocktail or have a Canadian lunch of roast beef, green beans and maple syrup sauce!
First impressions of the country from the rural areas of the west are in fact that it is very poor. The farmers and villagers seemed to be living a very basic existence. But things improved as we moved east, housing improved and the fields seemed more bountiful. Siam Reap seemed quite prosperous, likely due to the rapidly expanding tourism. But the roads... In some areas, cars could be completely swallowed up! Fortunately we had the opportunity to travel on occasion by boat. We had taken a very peaceful, enjoyable and relaxing boat trip in Burma aboard a large, slow, triple-decker ferry and we were looking forward to the same when we ventured north from Kampong Cham on the Mekong River to see an endangered species of freshwater dolphin (the Irrawaddy) at a place called Kratchie. Kampong Cham, where we spent the night, was a sullen, drab old city with sullen, drab waiters in the restaurant. We stayed in the Mekong Hotel on the edge of the river with a beautiful view. The older style hotel had a corridor big enough to play a game of soccer in, with a table and two chairs in the middle, for what, we had no idea.
There was a choice of the slow boat (5 hours and $4 US) or the fast boat (4 hours and $5). I suggested the slow boat. Pierre wanted the fast boat. We took the fast boat...which had just arrived, full to capacity from Phnom Penh, the capital. So we bundled our luggage and ourselves onto the back section of the roof, which was already full. Pierre squeezed in between two motorcycles tied up to the railing. I squeezed in between two nice looking Cambodians. It was a very windy day and we left the pier heading at about 80 kms/hr (Pierre says it was closer to 200 kms/hr) into the wind and against the current. Of course, the effect of the speed, the wind and the current meant that the boat produced a huge spray that completely doused everything on the back of the roof, us included. The Cambodians and I huddled together for warmth and protection. Pierre cuddled the motorcycle gas tanks. After about 30 minutes when we were ready to forget the whole thing, collect our bags, jump in the river and swim to the shore, the river changed direction and the spray was half as strong. So we dried off in the sun and managed to enjoy the rest of the trip, sharing snacks with the Cambodians and cursing the French tourists smoking like chimneys close to us but out of range. Upon arriving in Kratchie, we waited for most people to disembark. Pierre stood up, put his shoulder bag and the camera bag over his shoulders and across his chest and got ready to jump down to the narrow ledge on the side of the boat. As I was starting to say: "Pierre,maybeyoushouldgetdownfirstandthencollectyourthings...", he jumped, slipped on the ledge and disappeared into the brown, murky waters of the Mekong.
I immediately yelled for help. "Please, our camera is in the water!" but a half-dozen young guys were already hoisting the soggy and stunned Pierre from the Mekong. Yes, the camera, you ask! Well, I took it out of the bag and wiped it off right away and it was fine. Pierre did lose his sunshades clip-on though. And the poor man was standing there looking like a frightened puppy that had just come in from a rain and lightning storm.
Fortunately, a wonderful hotel with a beautiful view of the Mekong found us right away. (At most bus, train, boat arrival stations, "representatives" of hotels and guesthouses are there to encourage the tourists to stay with them. They find us). They'll even give you all kinds of false information just to get you to the place, hoping that you'll stay there because it is easier than finding another place when you find out that the real cost is double. And, as we didn't get what we were told, we packed up to leave, forcing their hand. They gave in. We got a great room on the airy 4th floor with a huge balcony in the front where we could view the sunset, watch the river flow by, check out the comings and goings on the road or the river or just soak up some sun and relax. ($5 instead of $10 they offered at first)
Our elderly German and Dutch neighbors were slightly bewildered as I spread almost all of our luggage and clothing and Pierre on the floor of the balcony to dry in the sun!
We did eventually have a superb stay in Kratchie, walking and shopping in the peaceful, sleepy town and eventually going to see the dolphins. They are an endangered species, of course, but the growing tourist industry might just save them as many of the local people profit through guesthouses, restaurants, market sales, motorcylce taxi rides, moto and bike rentals and even the boat rides out onto the river to see the dolphins, which incidentally look like small grey beluga whales. We had some difficulty finding them, seeing a few from quite a distance but then our small boat found a group of about 6 feeding at a bend in the river. It was quite an experience, especially ending the trip next to a local fisherman hauling in his small net and a farmer who was giving his two water buffalo a well-deserved bath at the end of the workday.
From Kratchie we went to Phnom Penh, the capital, also by boat but this time we were the first to reserve seats inside the boat. Phnom Penh was a pleasant surprise, a nice, clean city with most services one would want, including changing travellers cheques into US$ cash! Again, we were able to find a nice place to stay, again on the water's edge, on the side of a lake in the middle of town. Our major activity here, however, had to be an excursion to the former Khmer Rouge prison and one of the many Killing Fields where, as you already know, 2 million Cambodians were tortured and brutally killed. It was a sobering and depressing experience but one that we had to have. It did raise the question for the small group we travelled with about the relative horror and condemnation of this kind of "personal" terror and brutality, which is rightly denounced like Rwanda and similar events. On the other hand, the killing of 2 million Vietnamese and wounding of another 4 million by US bombs and napalm is seen as just part of war! It was an interesting discussion on the way back to the city, but we all agreed that George Bush was a jerk.
So, after 2 and a half months on the road and at approximately the half-way point in the trip, we thought we needed a bit of a break, of the sun and sand variety. So we took the bus to Sihanoukville on the coast, found a nice hotel for $6 only 5 minutes from a 4 - 5 kilometre long, pine-fringed, powdery-white sand beach. The sand "scrunched" under our feet like snow does on a crispy-cold winter evening. The beach was lined with umbrellas and lounge chairs, like Mediterannean beaches but most are empty. Vendors install them and offer them free, with the condition, subtly pointed out if needed, that food and drink be purchased from them (not to excude however, the army of sellers that walk up and down the beach all day selling everything from fruit to potato chips to roasted langoustine tails or barbecued squid). We spent a glorious week, making only one boat trip to some islands for snorkelling and one trip into the town. I even read a book! The snorkelling was a lot of fun, beautiful coral and fish. Unfortunately, a young Australian on the trip stepped on some sea urchins, which have nasty, poisonous spines. He sufferred, the poor guy, but then got treated on the spot...one of the guys on the trip peed on his feet. It apparently works. Unfortunately too, Pierre's contact lenses seem to be scrapped. He almost burned his eyes out the last time he put them in and even some cleansing and anti-bacterial fluid haven't rectified the problem. He has so far refused to let me pee on them!
We became part of a little beach community, some Brits, Australians and Cambodians. It was grouped around a middle-aged Cambodian woman who had the boat tour company and who took care of numerous beach kids, often orphans, who spend the day selling, probably for someone else's profit. She provides a bit of food and teaches them some English. We would play with the kids in the sea and give them as many reasons as we could think of why we didn't want to buy potato chips when we could have fruit salad. One of our most memorable moments of the entire trip was to see one boy hanging lovingly on Pierre's neck as we said our goodbye's and seeing Pierre's eyes swelling up with tears.
But it had to end and we were soon back in Phnom Penh, getting ready for our departure to Vietnam, time to do a little shopping, catch up on some news and enjoy a bottle of wine with our supper (first time in 2 and a half months). Mmmm!
We travelled again by boat to Vietnam, a great way to end the visit to Cambodia. We now knew that there was much more than Anghor Wat and the Killing fields, a warm and fun people, relatively safe, quite well-organized services, and beautiful sights and experiences.
Please find more pictures and videos at: http://homepage.mac.com/simardcook/menu35.html
Well, I was woken up this morning by a Shirley Temple Nguyen outside my hotel room, singing: "Oh Suzannah, oh don't you cry for me, for I come from Alabama with my banjo on my knee..." We watched TV5, good Québec documentaries and then had a serious argument about human cloning...but that's another story. So, what better day to finish and send my report on Cambodia. I hope that you enjoy.
Trev
We entered Cambodia on Dec 30 with uncertain thoughts of what to expect. We heard that things were difficult there: bad roads, poverty, undeveloped infrastructure, some insecurity...so why were we going and what did we expect? Well, of course there are the ruins of Anghor Wat, a wonder of the world, and hmmm... the ruins of the Khmer Rouge, a tragedy of the world... but that was about it for expectations. Anyway, Cambodia is between Thailand and Vietnam and we had a visa for Vietnam for the 19 January so why not check out Cambodia on the way?
For about $6 US we had a ticket all the way from Bangkok to Siam Reap in western Cambodia, where Anghor Wat is located. And for $28 US more a visa service. We were told that it was the same cost as if we got the Cambodian visa ourselves at the border. Wrong; it would have been about $20 if we'd done it ourselves. (Wait until we get back to Bangkok and have a chat with the travel agent!)
The road from Bangkok to the border was smooth and easy in a very comfortable air-conditionned bus. (Except that a German tourist jumped on the bus first and reserved all the best seats for his friends.) Then the fun started. We waited two hours in Thailand while our tour guides got us the visas. The border itself was like a zoo, a big market, lots of buses, people everywhere. We were told to be very careful of our baggage due to pickpockets & thieves. We tried walking back to back, armed with mosquito repellant spray, but... It was a fairly long walk, first to the Thai immigration post, then to the Cambodia immigration but all went smoothly. We then had to take a Cambodian bus, however, and it was much older, dusty and loaded with mosquitoes, why would anyone invent such nasty creatures? Without the air conditionning, many travellers assumed that they could smoke ON the bus. These Europeans are so backward! (partial apologies to our European friends!) Pierre and I ensured that they understood that smoking on the bus was not appropriate. (The small group that we confronted got off the bus at the meal stop and rented a minivan for the last half of the journey)! Hummph!
The road was very rough, very dusty and the trip very uncomfortable and we only arrived at Siam Reap at about 9 p.m., having departed Bangkok at 7:30 a.m. We later read in a guidebook that the late arrival is deliberate so as to maximize the chances that we tourists will stay at the guesthouse where we are dropped off...who wants to check around for guest houses at 9 p.m. after a 13 and a half hour bus trip? Actually, we wound up staying at the same guesthouse the whole time as it only cost $4US per night for the both of us and we didn't find anything cheaper or better anyway. The fact that there were about a dozen young guys with motorcycle taxis to drive us around at any time had nothing to do with it.
We quite enjoyed the town of Siam Reap and found much to do besides seeing the ruins. But even though the cost of a visit to Anghor Wat is $20/day + $20 for a guide (highly recommended) + $20 for a rented car it has to be done! Who would go to Egypt and NOT see the pyramids? Who would go to Lethbridge (my home town) and NOT see the bridge? Anyway, el cheapo here found a guide with a motorcycle and with one of the guys from the hotel for Pierre we had the day for only $54. (Hey, more than a day's rent and two beer) Fortunately, the US bombing of Cambodia and the wars didn't damage the ruins and much restoration work has been done through international aid. Many of the main temples are well preserved. Unfortunately, almost no local funding goes into restoration or preservation. Management of the entire site is contracted by the Cambodian government to a Vietnamese petroleum company???? Of the $US 3 million profit in 2002, $2 million went to the Vietnamese company and $1 million to the Cambodian government ministers and friends, apparently for Mercedes cars and villas.
Our favorite temple was Ta Prohm, the one with giant tree roots winding over, under and through everything. It was very impressive. But after about 8 hours of walking around in the blazing sun, we had seen enough and called it a day. (Remember that we had already seen millions of temples in Thailand and expecially Burma) Unfortunately, our guide spoke French like I speak Chinese. When Pierre would ask him a question, he would laugh and turn away! I mean when Pierre would ask him a serious question! He wanted to tell us the entire history of Buddhism and even the earlier Hindu beliefs that were the basis for the earliest temples of Anghor Wat. There were about 200 metres of bas relief etched into the wall encircling Anghor Wat and he wanted to explain every section...in detail). We finally got tired of it, since we understood about 10% anyway, and then we got silly and started saying to each other: "Well Wat the f..." trying not to show any Anghor towards the guide. "Oh, wat ever" So we lost a bit of the sense of grandeur of the place that might have helped if we had a good guide. Still, the ruins are a magnificent reminder of the history of the entire region of southeast Asia, particularly because they have survived the recent history of war and US bombing. Other similar ruins in the country haven't been so lucky. They've been damaged by war or more recently dismantled and smuggled out of the country for profit (by both the Khmer Rouge and the current Cambodian military! (I saw a documentary about this on TV in Montréal...so it must be true!)
Other attractions in Siam Reap were a floating village on the edge of a large lake and a butterfly café. The latter is a peaceful café with a huge net enclosing numerous flowering plants, trees and a wide variety of butterflies, a place to get away from all the noisy motorcycles and harassing vendors and sip a tropical flower cocktail or have a Canadian lunch of roast beef, green beans and maple syrup sauce!
First impressions of the country from the rural areas of the west are in fact that it is very poor. The farmers and villagers seemed to be living a very basic existence. But things improved as we moved east, housing improved and the fields seemed more bountiful. Siam Reap seemed quite prosperous, likely due to the rapidly expanding tourism. But the roads... In some areas, cars could be completely swallowed up! Fortunately we had the opportunity to travel on occasion by boat. We had taken a very peaceful, enjoyable and relaxing boat trip in Burma aboard a large, slow, triple-decker ferry and we were looking forward to the same when we ventured north from Kampong Cham on the Mekong River to see an endangered species of freshwater dolphin (the Irrawaddy) at a place called Kratchie. Kampong Cham, where we spent the night, was a sullen, drab old city with sullen, drab waiters in the restaurant. We stayed in the Mekong Hotel on the edge of the river with a beautiful view. The older style hotel had a corridor big enough to play a game of soccer in, with a table and two chairs in the middle, for what, we had no idea.
There was a choice of the slow boat (5 hours and $4 US) or the fast boat (4 hours and $5). I suggested the slow boat. Pierre wanted the fast boat. We took the fast boat...which had just arrived, full to capacity from Phnom Penh, the capital. So we bundled our luggage and ourselves onto the back section of the roof, which was already full. Pierre squeezed in between two motorcycles tied up to the railing. I squeezed in between two nice looking Cambodians. It was a very windy day and we left the pier heading at about 80 kms/hr (Pierre says it was closer to 200 kms/hr) into the wind and against the current. Of course, the effect of the speed, the wind and the current meant that the boat produced a huge spray that completely doused everything on the back of the roof, us included. The Cambodians and I huddled together for warmth and protection. Pierre cuddled the motorcycle gas tanks. After about 30 minutes when we were ready to forget the whole thing, collect our bags, jump in the river and swim to the shore, the river changed direction and the spray was half as strong. So we dried off in the sun and managed to enjoy the rest of the trip, sharing snacks with the Cambodians and cursing the French tourists smoking like chimneys close to us but out of range. Upon arriving in Kratchie, we waited for most people to disembark. Pierre stood up, put his shoulder bag and the camera bag over his shoulders and across his chest and got ready to jump down to the narrow ledge on the side of the boat. As I was starting to say: "Pierre,maybeyoushouldgetdownfirstandthencollectyourthings...", he jumped, slipped on the ledge and disappeared into the brown, murky waters of the Mekong.
I immediately yelled for help. "Please, our camera is in the water!" but a half-dozen young guys were already hoisting the soggy and stunned Pierre from the Mekong. Yes, the camera, you ask! Well, I took it out of the bag and wiped it off right away and it was fine. Pierre did lose his sunshades clip-on though. And the poor man was standing there looking like a frightened puppy that had just come in from a rain and lightning storm.
Fortunately, a wonderful hotel with a beautiful view of the Mekong found us right away. (At most bus, train, boat arrival stations, "representatives" of hotels and guesthouses are there to encourage the tourists to stay with them. They find us). They'll even give you all kinds of false information just to get you to the place, hoping that you'll stay there because it is easier than finding another place when you find out that the real cost is double. And, as we didn't get what we were told, we packed up to leave, forcing their hand. They gave in. We got a great room on the airy 4th floor with a huge balcony in the front where we could view the sunset, watch the river flow by, check out the comings and goings on the road or the river or just soak up some sun and relax. ($5 instead of $10 they offered at first)
Our elderly German and Dutch neighbors were slightly bewildered as I spread almost all of our luggage and clothing and Pierre on the floor of the balcony to dry in the sun!
We did eventually have a superb stay in Kratchie, walking and shopping in the peaceful, sleepy town and eventually going to see the dolphins. They are an endangered species, of course, but the growing tourist industry might just save them as many of the local people profit through guesthouses, restaurants, market sales, motorcylce taxi rides, moto and bike rentals and even the boat rides out onto the river to see the dolphins, which incidentally look like small grey beluga whales. We had some difficulty finding them, seeing a few from quite a distance but then our small boat found a group of about 6 feeding at a bend in the river. It was quite an experience, especially ending the trip next to a local fisherman hauling in his small net and a farmer who was giving his two water buffalo a well-deserved bath at the end of the workday.
From Kratchie we went to Phnom Penh, the capital, also by boat but this time we were the first to reserve seats inside the boat. Phnom Penh was a pleasant surprise, a nice, clean city with most services one would want, including changing travellers cheques into US$ cash! Again, we were able to find a nice place to stay, again on the water's edge, on the side of a lake in the middle of town. Our major activity here, however, had to be an excursion to the former Khmer Rouge prison and one of the many Killing Fields where, as you already know, 2 million Cambodians were tortured and brutally killed. It was a sobering and depressing experience but one that we had to have. It did raise the question for the small group we travelled with about the relative horror and condemnation of this kind of "personal" terror and brutality, which is rightly denounced like Rwanda and similar events. On the other hand, the killing of 2 million Vietnamese and wounding of another 4 million by US bombs and napalm is seen as just part of war! It was an interesting discussion on the way back to the city, but we all agreed that George Bush was a jerk.
So, after 2 and a half months on the road and at approximately the half-way point in the trip, we thought we needed a bit of a break, of the sun and sand variety. So we took the bus to Sihanoukville on the coast, found a nice hotel for $6 only 5 minutes from a 4 - 5 kilometre long, pine-fringed, powdery-white sand beach. The sand "scrunched" under our feet like snow does on a crispy-cold winter evening. The beach was lined with umbrellas and lounge chairs, like Mediterannean beaches but most are empty. Vendors install them and offer them free, with the condition, subtly pointed out if needed, that food and drink be purchased from them (not to excude however, the army of sellers that walk up and down the beach all day selling everything from fruit to potato chips to roasted langoustine tails or barbecued squid). We spent a glorious week, making only one boat trip to some islands for snorkelling and one trip into the town. I even read a book! The snorkelling was a lot of fun, beautiful coral and fish. Unfortunately, a young Australian on the trip stepped on some sea urchins, which have nasty, poisonous spines. He sufferred, the poor guy, but then got treated on the spot...one of the guys on the trip peed on his feet. It apparently works. Unfortunately too, Pierre's contact lenses seem to be scrapped. He almost burned his eyes out the last time he put them in and even some cleansing and anti-bacterial fluid haven't rectified the problem. He has so far refused to let me pee on them!
We became part of a little beach community, some Brits, Australians and Cambodians. It was grouped around a middle-aged Cambodian woman who had the boat tour company and who took care of numerous beach kids, often orphans, who spend the day selling, probably for someone else's profit. She provides a bit of food and teaches them some English. We would play with the kids in the sea and give them as many reasons as we could think of why we didn't want to buy potato chips when we could have fruit salad. One of our most memorable moments of the entire trip was to see one boy hanging lovingly on Pierre's neck as we said our goodbye's and seeing Pierre's eyes swelling up with tears.
But it had to end and we were soon back in Phnom Penh, getting ready for our departure to Vietnam, time to do a little shopping, catch up on some news and enjoy a bottle of wine with our supper (first time in 2 and a half months). Mmmm!
We travelled again by boat to Vietnam, a great way to end the visit to Cambodia. We now knew that there was much more than Anghor Wat and the Killing fields, a warm and fun people, relatively safe, quite well-organized services, and beautiful sights and experiences.
Please find more pictures and videos at: http://homepage.mac.com/simardcook/menu35.html
Posted: Vend - Octobre 3, 2003 at 04:48
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Published On: octo 03, 2003 06:34
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Published On: octo 03, 2003 06:34