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(Allergies and Aggravation)
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(Headwinds, Hitch-hiking, & Home)
What a wild past few days. Ever since we hit El Paso Missy has been dealing with allergies again. She got some medication back in Del Rio but the symptoms came back and they are stronger than ever. She's been stuffed up, sneezing, and having really itchy eyes for more than a week now. It was pretty bad in Las Cruces but it has gotten worse and that makes it really tough to ride. So yesterday enough was enough and we made the decision to get to Phoenix as fast as possible. But first a little on the past few days:
We left Las Cruces and rode out to the Caballo Reservoir. We had a nice view of the Organ Mountains on the way out of town and the sunset on the mountainside that night was really beautiful. The next day was a short 30 miles up to Kingston, NM and the Black Range Lodge. We had heard about the lodge from some fellow cyclists who stopped there on their way East. It is a really wonderful old lodge dating from the late 1800's run by a tremendous couple. They are active in the Green Building movement; they hold workshops up at the lodge on straw bale, earth-bags, earthen floors, and other natural building techniques and Catherine has written a couple books on straw bale and natural building and is working on another. We had a great time reading a bit in their resource library/bookstore, hanging out and being well fed in their kitchen, exploring the various natural building techniques they have around the lodge (including a straw bale chicken coop we plan to emulate).
Once we pulled ourselves away from the lodge we did a nice 2,200 foot climb in about 8 miles with several switch-backs. It was a beautiful view from the top of Emory Pass. We could see all the way back to the Organ mountains and over the past couple days of riding. The climb up was really nice with great views, a little tailwind, and a perfect pitch. The way down we had some headwinds but it was still very pretty. It ended up being a longer ride than we expected into Silver City, with more climbs than anticipated and our good friend the headwind making for a pretty tough day.
Once we were in Silver City we were greeted by a friend of Pete & Catherine's (the Lodge owners), Wendy. Wendy is an Aussie relocated here in New Mexico. We had a wonderful time exchanging travel stories (she has a lot of great ones, she is a master traveler) and enjoying her fabulous cooking! The next morning we went to the local food co-op to stock up and to the great local bike shop, Gila Hike & Bike where we had Missy's drive train worked on again. It's really been giving her problems since the beginning but last week she broke a der. cable and since I replaced it the darn things been skipping even more. They made some adjustments, replaced the chain (with about 5,000 miles on it it was time), and worked some other magic. It worked for a bit but is back to skipping a bit. I think it's time for a new derailleur and maybe shifters.
Met some other bike tourers at the shop. They were heading East, which seems to be the direction almost everyone is going. Seems the headwinds in the spring are prevalent out of the West. Who knew? Oh well, when you do a circle around the US I guess it's inevitable that you fight prevalent headwinds sometime.
With the late start out of Silver City we only made it as far as Buckhorn, NM and didn't make it into Arizona until yesterday. As I said earlier, Missy's allergies are acting up and it has been really miserable for her. On the ride out of Buckhorn and up to the Mule Creek Pass we had a really rough time of it. Our first major breakdown of the trip where we actually rode separate for some of the day and both got very emotional and frustrated. The combo of climbing into the headwinds and Missy's allergies made it pretty wretched. It also doesn't help that we are both missing 'home' and this last 1,000 mile stretch is the hardest with the desire to be 'nesting' getting stronger. We're like birds in the spring, ready to gather our straw and build our cozy spot.
But it seems there's a little more adventure to be had and luckily the terrain got more beautiful and the summit was really pretty. Crossing into Arizona made us feel a bit better too, one state away from home. There was a long steep downhill that even with the strong headwind we could enjoy some "free miles".
Once we reached the bottom in Three Way, AZ we decided that it was time to Hitch! Missy couldn't do another four days of riding and we wanted to get someplace that she could go to an allergist to find out what was going on. It was already 4:30 but we figured we'd try for a bit and see if we could get to the next town or all the way to Mesa. We parked our bikes on the side of the road and stepped to the side together. We stuck out our thumbs just as a truck was passing. It pulled right over! The first one! We hardly had our thumbs sticking out yet. She said she was only going as far as Safford but that was 35 miles farther and much bigger than the one store 'town' we were in so it was perfect. Catherine is an electrician at the Morenci Mine. She gave us a ride into Thatcher (a bit further down the road), told us about the mining in the area, and after dropping us off pulled a couple cold waters out of her cooler and wished us luck. She was all the luck we needed that day. She lifted our spirits and gave us hope that today we might get to Mesa and get some relief for Missy. So after breakfast (oatmeal again) we'll stick out our thumbs and see if we have the kind of luck we had yesterday.
We're in need of a bit of encouragement these days so if you have a moment to drop a line (comment or email) and let us know you're rooting for us it would be greatly appreciated. Missy especially needs some uplifting words to help push through this next thousand miles to get us home for a break. Thanks for all the encouragement in the past, it's helped us get this far!