Missy and Shane's All Around US Tour.

What a wonderful welcome back to the road! We had a small set back while installing Missy's new saddle (I snapped the seat post clamp tightening it too tight) and I wasn't sure if we were even going to get out of town that day. But thanks to the great staff at the Hampton Inn who helped us call around to several bike shops (none of which had the exact size we needed but a couple that had some close ones) and also who helped me actually do a repair to hold the seat up long enough to get us to a bike shop. One guy (thanks Mike!) even went to Home Depot and got the parts. They were all very nice and helpful, all that on top of storing our bikes at no cost while we were in California.
On our way to a bike shop (on our route) we came across another shop that we hadn't called (probably because it was called Ski World) and decided to give it a try. They not only had clamps but the exact size we needed. They were very nice too! They gave us a bike map and suggested a route much better than the bust road we had been on. We ended up riding a "rail to trail" for about 10 miles and then got on some nice country roads. One of the country roads had a bridge closed and a detour around it. But as readers of this blog know- Road Closed signs don't scare Missy and I anymore so we rolled right past, hoisted our bikes over the construction, and rolled on down a peaceful car free road. That road led us right to the cute little town of Middleport and the beginning of the Erie Canal Trail. After dinner along the canal we rolled to the 'downtown' area and asked a police officer about the camping that we had heard about that was along the canal. As Missy said, he was like the Hospitality Police. He showed us where the free camping was, the bathrooms, where we could get breakfast, etc. He said "we just want people to relax and enjoy themselves here." Wow.
We met a group of three cyclists there, two of which had biked from the Seattle area also, but they had biked the Canada side and were already on the way back (as far as Chicago to catch a flight home). We certainly feel like the last of the Northern Tier riders still heading West.
The next day we rode the Erie Canal Trail all the way into Rochester (after a Middleport citizen asked if he could say a prayer for us and gave us a very nice blessing for our journey). The canal was really scenic, historic, well maintained, and fun to ride along. Mostly it wasn't paved but it was a compacted decomposed granite type of surface- very rideable at just below our normal pace- worth the 'no car' factor.
Just outside of Rochester in Pittsford, we were so happy to meet up with a couple, Art & Laurie, that we had originally met way back in June when we were in Waterton (just outside of Glacier Nat'l Park). We had talked with them for a little bit (along with a couple fellow tourers) and they invited us to stay with them when our ride took us through NY. We took them up on their offer and were very glad we did. They are fellow travelers and have even done some bike touring. We had a nice dinner together and shared some life stories.
We left Pittsford at our usual 'after 10am' departure time and rode our final 15 miles of the Erie Canal Trail. We turned North and headed up to Sodus Point and our last glimpse of Lake Ontario. We stayed at a great campground that put all of our current fears of 'private campgrounds' to rest. The host was very sweet, even writing us a nice welcome note and blessing our journey, and the spot was pretty with a nice view of the lake, had nice clean showers, and even soap in the bathroom! We met another cyclist, Andy, who is from Rochester and was just returning home after riding to a wedding in Maine. Very nice guy.
That gets us up to yesterday, when the hospitality really kicks into high gear. We had breakfast with Andy and talked for a long time so that we didn't actually pack up and roll out until noon. Late, even for us. We got to the town of Fulton around 5:30 and were a little hungry but still had a couple hours to get to our planned campground. We picked up dinner supplies at a convenience store and rolled on, passing the small town of Volney. After that we realized that we had both forgot to fill our water bottles! We pulled over to figure out how much we had and there was a party going on at the house right next to us. Missy went to ask them if we could fill up there and they said "sure, but why don't you help yourselves to some beer and food as well!" Not ones to turn down such a wonderful offer, we became the unexpected guests at Dave's Pig Roast Party. There were already several tents set up and they told us to set up as well and spend the night. We met some great people, ate some good food, had some good laughs, and got to bed not too late. Thunder woke us up once but it didn't rain much. After some coffee, bagels, and donuts we bid our new friends goodbye and were back on the road feeling pretty damned welcome in NY. I'm certain everything happens for a reason and our trip is filled with many wonderful meetings, lessons, conversations, and blessed moments.
Today we decided on a shorter day half way through- just 47 miles- so we got into camp by 3pm or so. It just so happened that this campground we chose led us following signs to "Fiddler's Hall of Fame" and "Concert Today". Sure enough, right across the road from our camp, is the home of the North American Fiddler's Hall of Fame and Museum. We watched a short fiddle jam session but I believe we must have missed the 'advanced' players. We did hear one really good player practicing while we were in the Hall of Fame.
And now onward to our friend's wedding in Vermont- Bonkaboonie or bust!

We're back in New York! This morning we'll enjoy our 'free' breakfast/fuel, repack the bikes, and ride through the big city traffic until we hit the country roads again. The flight was uneventful and passed really quickly! The funny flight attendants, an okay movie (The Sentinel), good snacks, and good reading material helped.
I sent a couple pictures of our bikes off to an online 'bike porn' site a couple days ago. It's called Fully Loaded Touring and shows pictures of various bikes set up and touring all around the world. Missy's bike made the cut, mine didn't (since I don't have front panniers). You can go to the site, go to the gallery, and scroll to the bottom to see a shot Missy took of her bike in Glacier (or you can just go here).
Don't forget the last photo page (up to Aug. 11) at this site.

New York State and East Coast... Here we come!

As expected the time back home has flown by! We've had a great visit- wonderful dinners with the family, a pool party in Napa with a big East Bay contingent, celebrating India's B-day, resting our bodies, and generally having a great relaxing time of being 'home'! Seems like there are still things to cross off the "to do" list but nothing that can't wait. Thanks to everyone who came out to the party! It was so great to connect with y'all- even if it was for far to short of a time!! Also had a great time seeing a bunch of folks at the Crown City Rockers & Ozomatli show at Stern Grove in the City.

We're both excited for the next part of the journey; Kori & Thomas' amazing wedding (Bonkaboonie), celebrating the finish of the Northern Tier and our anniversary in Maine (with Shane's parents flying out for the event), the northern Atlantic region,visiting friends in NY & NJ, and beyond!

Got some pictures up from the last section of the trip, from Michigan, through Ontario, in Niagara, and Buffalo. Enjoy them HERE.

Thought I'd put up a quick post of some numbers from our trip. We are back in a Napa for a 10 day visit with family and friends and are packing it in. Heading to Water World with India & Fiona today. We also have lot's of great dinner plans, some shopping and equipment replacement while we are here, our big party next Saturday, and visiting our our beloved birds.
Will have some pictures up in the next couple days but did some number crunching so wanted to post those first:

These are the total for Seattle-Buffalo and don't include the Napa-San-Diego leg. Once we hit Maine I'll do a sub-total for our whole trip so far.

Total Miles: 3,689
Average Miles per Day: 52.70
Average Miles per Hour: 12.3
Average time in saddle: 4.25 hours a day
Shane's Max: 42 mph
Missy's Max: 41 mph
Total time in the saddle: 300 hours
Days riding: 69
Rest Days: 9
New tires: 4 (but one is still waiting to go on M's)
Flats: Shane- 3 Missy- 1(caused by her tire liner!)
New Saddles: 2 (Shane's wore out, Missy's snapped in half)
Wheels: 1 new rear for Shane (broke 4 spokes...decided I didn't like that wheel).
Number of Macaroni & Cheese dinners: 2 (we're pretty inventive!)
Bowls of oatmeal/porridge: 10,000 (feels like it... probably more like 50 each. Not so inventive at breakfast.)
Sides of french fries eaten: 10,001
Bottles of Sunscreen: 4
Bottles of bug-dope: 1
Items lost to 'bandits of the night': 1 food bag chewed, 1 food bag stolen
Miles left for the roundtrip: About 9,000

What a great whirlwind tour of Niagara Falls! Our two weeks of not taking any days off and doing 60-80 mile days gave us a full day and a half to tool around the Falls area. We had a great time, taking a ride up the Skylon Tower for a dinner at the rotating dining room. At night we walked around the area and checked out the lit up falls. We had no idea they lit the falls up... it was kind of cool looking, but also a little too Disneyland. The whole area was of course pretty touristic with a whole street that felt like a wanna be Vegas called Clifton Hill. It was full of huge outrageous signs, talking buildings, flashing lights, and a full on overload to the senses.

We ate at our first Tim Hortons, a famous Canadian donut/coffee shop the next morning. We know that Tim Hortons is popular because we see their brown cups every couple miles on the roadside. Having their donuts and coffee took me back to my days working at Dunkin Donuts....good times, good times.
Later we made the rounds to see the rest of the falls. We took the Maid of the Mist boat tour up to the falls and saw an IMAX movie on the legends of the Falls. Overall the falls were great. Not as high as either of us thought they would be and just as touristic as we expected, but still very beautiful and well worth seeing. It was a very impressive sight. Last night we had a great dinner at a wonderful little Italian place called Casa Vostra- it was tucked away on a back-street just a block off of Clifton Hill and the only other diners in the place were Italians. Think it was the best meal we've had since Washington!!

Tonight we are in Buffalo after riding the 30 miles from the falls, mostly along the Niagara River. We fly out tomorrow VERY early and have to get there even earlier with the new travel warnings. Looks like we wont be bringing any toiletries back since we aren't checking any bags. We got our bikes parked safe and sound along with most of our belongings in the electrical room of the Hampton Inn here, waiting for our return in 10 days.
Looking forward to seeing everyone, having a fun pool party, and just chillin' in Napa for a break. We'll post some pictures when we are there.

We rolled to the border the other day and had a nice short ferry ride across the St. Claire River into Canada. With our late start that day we didn't cross until 2:00 and we still had about 50 miles to do. Somehow we powered through and rolled into the tiny town of Morpeth for dinner. Of course the one restaurant in town closed down last year so it was 'convenience store' dinner again. We chose the spaghetti option. We pulled into the Rondeau Shores Trailer Park around 7:30 p.m. They were really full but they still had a couple small tent sites open. It was the most expensive camping yet at $30.00 (same as huge RV's pay), but after cycling 65 miles and with no other camping around it was our only option. While I cooked dinner a very nice couple, Ross and June, came by and introduced themselves. We met them again on our walk to check out our first view of Lake Erie (our fourth Great Lake). They have a farm near the campground and were staying there for the 'Civic Holiday' that's going on this weekend in Canada- no occasion, just a holiday. They gave us a tour of their "home away from home", gave us some great local syrup and were super friendly. They were the one bright spot to an otherwise horrible experience at Rondeau Shores. That night a huge 'drunkfest' went down with the loudest screaming and yelling late into the night. Even with earplugs we couldn't sleep. The next morning we were attacked by biting flies, grumpy from no sleep, and were in the only spot with no shade. I was so frustrated I wrote a note complaining about the cost, lack of services (like no soap or paper towels in the bathroom!), and lack of enforcement of the quite time. When the owner got the note she started to yell at us and say that she had never received such a "snarky" note and that we weren't welcome back there. As Missy says "You haven't lived until a 70 year old kicks you out of her trailer park." Aw, the full lives we are living.

Needless to say we were a little put off on the idea of sleeping in another 'private campground' or trailer park. So we were happy to see that the next night there was a Provincial Park in the town of Port Burwell. Of course, once we rode the 72 miles there we figured out that with the Civic Holiday it could be a little full so we called ahead. They were full and not at all ready to make room for a couple cyclists. We made a few other calls to local campgrounds and they were all full and not making room. So we decided that we would have to shell out the big bucks for a hotel. We called the first one on our list, the Beach View Cottages, and she said they were full but if we just wanted to pitch our tent we could do that in the yard! Yahoo! So after dinner at the Lighthouse Restaurant (where we are having breakfast right now as I write this) we rolled over there to join their 'party'. It was a GREAT family. Bob & Nancy Lozon were our hosts and they greeted us with open arms giving us a great spot in the yard along with the rest of the family camping out there, access to showers and a bathroom, and the best view of Lake Erie yet! It was so wonderful!! Sadly, we were too tired from our long ride to join them in town for the live music but we had coffee with them in the morning and chatted a little more. If you're along Lake Erie on the Ontario side make a visit to Port Burwell and stay at the cute little spot of the Beach View Cottages, and tell them Shane & Missy sent you.

As usual the universe balanced itself out and all is well again.... we still like Canada, eh.

Well it has finally cooled off. The other day it was super hot and we finally broke down and bought a couple insulated water bottles. Why didn't we do that earlier??!! What a great luxury to fill a water bottle with ice water and still have it cold an hour later, instead of drinking a warm tea.
Missy compared the weather to a fever. It was hot, hot, hot and then it broke like a fever with a major storm. We got into camp the other night, set up our tent, tarp, and cooked dinner while the clouds rolled in. And then, BOOM. It poured and poured. The thunder and lightning struck hard and fast. It started at a distance and then rolled right over us with lightning and thunder almost simultaneously... that's close. We took our showers and did some laundry (in a slightly skanky bath house... sad since we paid $23 for that camping spot- yikes!) and the rain stopped for awhile. Then once we were in the tent the sky opened up again and it stormed until about 2am. Just the night before we couldn't sleep because of the stale air and heat in the tent. We're glad the fever has broken and that it is much cooler now. There was a lot of flooding, we even got detoured because of a bridge that was washed out. It was cloudy all day and by the afternoon we had one more dump of rain before it cleared up. Now it is sunny and cool (should be in the low 80's today).
Maybe the weather change will help the 'wear and tear' on our bodies. Hi- Missy here- for a brief 2 cents! Shane put up photos of wear and tear of our gear but our bodies have experienced some wear and tear, too, after so many miles. Our first changes started in Montana and North Dakota with what I now like to call the "diaper rash" effect. My rash has gotten a lot better since consistently using chamois "butter", baby powder or some concoction of both- which is tricky as you can easily make yourself a paste. Got to be careful with the proportions! I've also needed to use an antifungal cream daily on my feet and, just today, I will start putting it on the palm of my hand. The warmth and moisture of my cycling shoes and gloves is a traveling petri dish. The most worrisome change has been our knees. Just within the last few weeks, my knees have gone from sore to painful. So I gear down more, to spin faster while cycling, to take the effort off my knees and put it on my cardiovascular system. Also, I've started taking glucosamine/ chondroitin supplements 2 times daily for my joints and Tiger Balm (thanks Jody from Hospice) when we get into camp. Since starting the supplements, I haven't had pain in my knees, just soreness, which leaves quickly when we take a day off from cycling. A remarkable change in Shane's body is a new soreness in the general ass area (Can you say "ass" on a blog? On that note- we tried to access our blog at a library but we couldn't. It said it was blocked because it had pornography! Who knew?!). After years and years of cycling on a leather Brook's saddle, Shane has traded it for a cushy, gel saddle for the rest of our tour. Something about the leather losing it's spring after so many miles, day after day. So that's what's going on with our bodies on a more negative note. Next blog, we will fill you in on the positive transformation our bodies have gone through!

Since Traverse City, we have been in "The North Dakota of Michigan"- my term, meaning flat, farmland of central Michigan. With the heat wave recently, I've been having flashbacks of our days of intense heat, no shade, no cool water to drink. Thankfully, Michigan has more trees and less miles between rest stops, so the misery factor has been much lower.
We head into Ontario, Canada today and will be following Lake Erie's North shore for awhile.
We're hot on the tail of a British couple riding a tandem. Every place we get to they say, "oh, we just had a couple on a Tandem stop in here a couple days ago" or "a British couple just stayed here last night" and just yesterday a cyclist going the other way said "I just passed a couple about 20 miles ago heading your way." Thought they would be at this campground but they must have ridden a bit further... maybe we'll catch them today. We met them in New Town, North Dakota (outside of Minot) and hope we see them again, they are always good for a laugh and good stories about all the bike repairs they are having to do (makes us feel very lucky). It's fun to keep track of all the other cyclists we've met on the trip.
Finally got some photo's up from Mackinac Island, Lake Michigan, and other photos up to Aug. 1. CLICK HERE to see 'em. If you think you missed some photos you can always click on the link on the right side of the website ("Photos of our trip") that leads to a menu of all of our trip photos.

Thanks to Beth for identifying one of our "cool bugs" in the comment section. In case you missed it check out the Cecropia moth here. You can see our photo HERE.

We were pretty happy last week while the rest of the country was in the 100's and we cycled around in the low 80's, but the heat has caught up with us. Was in the upper 90's yesterday and looks to be near 100 today! Record temps for this area.
Had a bit of a bike breakdown yesterday. Heard a funny snap sound about five miles from the end of our 70 mile day. Looked back to see the rear wheel wobbling and rubbing on the brakes. When I pulled over to check it out it was worse than I thought. I hadn't just broken a spoke but three... no wait four spokes! Three were on the non-drive side which meant I could fix them without special tools. Problem was I only had one spoke the right size. So I put that one on, tweaked all the other spokes a bit and put it all back together. We rode the 5 miles to Clare (still in Michigan). It was getting dark so we found a place to eat, called some bike shops down the road (the closest one is 30 miles away) and then eventually got a cheap hotel.
So, hopefully today I'll be able to ride 30 miles on a wobbly wheel (no rear brakes) to a bike shop that will hopefully have a new wheel or will be able to repair mine. Missy's carrying more of the gear today to help relieve the weight on my bike- so proud of her =). Send us good wheel vibes today.