Images of North Korea August 2005
 
In August 2005, I was privileged to travel to North Korea (DPRK) with my yongest son, Andrew. The trip coincided with celebrations of the 60th anniversary of liberation, including the mass games.
 

   


We flew to Pyongyang from Beijing on this Soviet-era Air Koryo Ilyushin Il-62
We felt welcomed by the Great Leader as soon as we arrived at Pyongyang Airport
Our Il-62 on the tarmac at Pyongyang (photographed with permission)
Waiting for the bus to take us for the half minute drive to the terminal
Our 1st stop was Kim Il Sung Square; we saw a practice for a mass dance
At the time we were not aware that we would join this dance in a few days!
Our next stop was Kim Il Sung Stadium on the northern side of the city
MANY things are named after Kim Il Sung, DPRK's eternal president
Opposite the stadium, these government buildings were decorated for the holiday
This mural marks the spot where Kim Il Sung returned to Pyongyang in 1945
A closer view of the mosaic of Kim Il Sung
Kim Il Sung's calligraphy is seen in stone beside the mural
Pyongyang's Arch of Triumph is modelled on Paris, but higher (of course)
The Arch, the mural and the Kim Il Sung Stadium form an ensemble
Another view of Kim Il Sung Stadium
Our room at the hotel had this wonderful view over the Taedong River
Next morning, Pyongyang awoke to a low mist caused by a temperature inversion
Pyongyang's eastern district was covered in an eerie swirling mist
The sun broke the through the clouds to the still sleeping city
Looking upstream (north) along the Taedong River
The western side of the river is where the main city centre is located
A view of the western part of Pyongyang
The low blue-roofed building is a new market, an experimental concept in DPRK
The large building with the upturned green roof is Pyongyang Grand Theatre
We drove south from Pyongyang along the Reunification Highway - not busy!
It is not often you can stand in the middle of an expressway for a photo.
As we drove south, we passed through hilly farmlands
The farms south of Pyongyang are collectivised and among DPRK's most productive
A small shop at the service centre, mid-way between Pyongyang and Kaesong
At Panmumjom, near the border, posters urge reunification
Soldiers guard the entrance of the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ), 2km from the border
A model of the Panmumjom negotiating zone
This room was used to ruthlessly expose US crimes during peace negotiations
The Korean War ended here in this room on the morning I was born (27 July 1953)
"It was here the American imperialists got down on their knees to beg... etc.etc
The US wanted the signing in a tent to avoid a permanent memorial to the defeat
A large gallery in the building remembers Kim Il Sung's revolutionary efforts
Kim Il Sung's signature, written the day before he died
Guarding the frontier. The border is the thin concrete strip through the huts
Closer view of the border, looking from the southern side (just)
Our group in the negotiating hut, being briefed on the DMZ
Vigilant DPRK soldiers stand guard at Panmunjom
Andrew at Panmumjom. We wisely decided not to walk south and be shot
Stephen at Panmunjom; the guard at right is about to stop the photo session
An elevated view of the negotiating huts. The tall building is in South Korea
The main negotiating hut at Panmumjom
The South Koreans have built this huge flagpole near the border
The North Koreans have built an even taller flagpole near the border
A revolutionary monument in the centre of Kaesong, 8km north of the border
We stayed at a Folk Hotel, made from renovated traditional Kaesong houses
A creek flows through the middle of the traditional Folk Hotel
Kaesong roof tops
We were taken to see the Concrrete Wall, built in the southern DMZ by the US
Likened to the Berlin Wall, its existence is denied by the US - but here it is!
Andrew viewing the Concrete Wall through Army Field Glasses
Andrew and Stephen with a Korean People's Army colonel
The colonel describes the Concrete Wall with great sorrow
The wall has a vertical face to the N, but a grass-covered sloping face to the S
The Kaesong Museum is in an old converted temple complex
Painted doors at the Songgyungwan temple
An area of tranquility in the temple
Outside the museum, we briefly visited a small food shop for local people
To the west of Kaesong is King Kongmin's tomb
The tomb faces Mount "Oh-My', based on a great story about the tomb's location
Scholars guard the tomb
Thongil Street in Kaesong is very wide, but remarkably free of traffic
The Kwandok Pavilion gives a wonderful overview of Kaesong
Unlike most DPRK towns, Kaesong was not destroyed by bombing in the War
The statue of Kim Il Sung looks over the town from the hill
At dusk on the eve of the holiday, everyone came to pay their respects
The crowds continue to come to the Great Leader, even well after dark
At the Folk Hotel, the cooks prepared our rice cakes
Andrew was very happy to join in - after he managed to lift the mallet
Andrew slept well that night, even though there were no beds in our room
We awoke next morning to light rain in our courtyard
The street opposite our hotel is typical of Kaesong's traditional streets
Kaesong ladies in their best clothes pass a monument to the Great Leader
Returning to Pyongyang, we came to this revolutionary relief sculpture
The sculpture adorned the Reunification Arch, striding the Reunification Highway
The arch was built to commemorate Kim Il Sung's 3-point plan for Korean unity
The arch was a destination for this family to so some holiday sightseeing
We visited Kim Il Sung's birth place, with the famous distorted clay pot
Kim Il Sung's birth place, Mangyongdae, is now a focus of pilgrimage
Coca-Cola is not sold in DPRK, but Andrew found a great substitute
Visiting Mangyongdae
This mural shows a young Kim Il Sung resolving to liberate Korea from oppression
A closer view of the mural
A pavilion on Mangyongdae provides a great view of Pyongyang in the distance
Looking across Turu Island towards Pyongyang in the distance
This monument shows where Kim Il Sung fought a bully, and won (of course!)
Young Koreans walk past the point where Kim Il Sung defeated the bully
We entered the Pyongyang Metro through this door at Puhung (Revival) Station
The turnstiles at Puhung (Revival) Station on the Pyongyang Metro
The Pyongyang Metro is over 100 metres deep as it doubles as a fallout shelter
Each station has its own socialist theme. Revival focuses on industry
The main platform at Puhung (Revival) Station
The main platform at Puhung (Revival) Station
At the end of the platform, a huge mural of Kim Il Sung is brightly flood-lit
Inside a railway carriage on the Pyongyang Metro
Yonggwang (Glory) Station has lights to resemble soaring and exploding fireworks
Andrew climbs the steps from the platform at Yonggwang (Glory) Station
Sosong Street, looking towards Central Railway Station (background)
Pyongyang's streets have very few cars or bicycles
Pyongyang Central Railway, decorated for the 60th anniverary of Liberation
The US spy ship Pueblo, was captured in DPRK waters in 1968, and is now a trophy
Electronic surveillance equipment on the USS Pueblo
The official signed confession by the US admitting illegal espionage
A KPA officer gently explains the aggressive imperialism of the US towards Korea
The USS Pueblo, now in Pyongyang's Taedong River
A factory near the site of the USS Pueblo
A housing block near the site of the USS Pueblo
We attended a performance of the Military Circus
School children attending the performance of the Military Circus
A clever balancing act commemorating Pyongyang's reconstruction
balancing on the high wire
A US Army soldier is humiliated and then kicked by a four-legged clown
Spell-bound children watching the flying trapeze
At the end of the show, the sponsor is thanked
Politics meets circus - the Army Circus salutes the audience
The Pyongyang Documentary Film Studio produces many DPRK classics
These buildings are opposite the Tower of the Juche Idea in east Pyongyang
A view across the Taedong River to the Grand People's Study Hall
In the foundation of the Juche Tower are goodwill stones from around the world
Abundant harvests is the theme of this sculpture at the Juche Tower
View from the Juche Tower towards the north along the Taedong River
View from the Juche Tower towards the north-east over Pyongyang
View from the Juche Tower towards the east over Pyongyang
View from the Juche Tower towards the west over Kim Il Sung Square
Street scene near the base of the Juche Tower
Pyongyang's roads are remarkable for their width and little traffic volume
Housing blocks near the Juche Tower
Tongil Street is a massive housing project finished in 1993
There are 290 tower blocks in Tongil Street, some as high as 30 storeys
Evening over Tongil Street
On 15th August we were invited to join the mass dancing in Kim Il Sung Square
Thousands of Pyongyangites came together for this community event
The event began with a performance, after which anyone could join in
Fireworks added to the festivities of the celebration
Dancing in Kim Il Sung Square on the 60th anniversary of Liberation from Japan
Dancing in Kim Il Sung Square on the 60th anniversary of Liberation from Japan
Dancing in Kim Il Sung Square on the 60th anniversary of Liberation from Japan
The dancing finished with another fireworks finale
Andrew chatted with famous CNN reporter, Mike Chinoy
This Ministry building in Kim Il Sung Square features Marx and Lenin portraits
This Ministry Building features an illuminated portrait of Kim Il Sung
Pyonyang on the evening of the 60th anniverary of the end of World War II
Pyongyang No.1 Department Store. Foreigners are not permitted to enter
The Mansudae Art Theatre is the venue for many bombastic revolutionary operas
The Grand People's Study House is Pyongyang's central library
Mansudae Fountain Park is a favourite meeting place for Pyongyangites
Looking to the Grand people's Study House from Mansudae Fountain Park
Murals on the Mansudae Art Theatre show scenes from the opera 'Sea of Blood'
A rainbow reflects in the spray of the Mansudae Fountain Park
Looking to the monument to Kim Il Sung from Mansudae Park, over 1 km distant
Revolutionary sculptures show the anti-imperialist struggle of the Korean people
"Long Live the Banner of Marxist-Leninist-Style Proletariat Internationalism"
Unveiled in 1972, the bronze monument to Kim Il Sung stands 20 metres tall
It is a focus of respect for DPRK people who show their boundless devotion
The monument is flanked by the world's biggest socialist realist sculptures
The masses wanted this to be 40m high but the Great Leader modestly said only 20
Stephen with the Great Leader and Eternal President, Comrade Kim Il Sung
Andrew with the Great Leader and Eternal President, Comrade Kim Il Sung
The nearby Chollima Statue models a fast mythical horse - and economic progress
Like all Pyongyang's main roads Kaeson Street is remarkable free of traffic
Korean liberators triumph over American aggression (note bullet hole in helmet)
Mansudae Grand Monument is on a hill overlooking the city of Pyongyang
"Let us bow in respect to the Great Leader Kim Il Sung"
Children practising for a night torch parade in Kim Il Sung Square
In the parade, groups file through the square forming lit up Korean words
Foreigners are never invited to the torch parades; this is as close as we get
Children practising for a night torch parade in Kim Il Sung Square
Local people admire paintings in the Korean Art Galley on Kim Il Sung Square
The art gallery has a different emphasis from the crass styles found elsewhere
The Dear Leader, Kim Jong Il, gives on-the-spot guidance in a shoe factory
The Dear Leader, Kim Jong Il, takes a break from his arduous work
Local people admire paintings in the Korean Art Galley
Korean art is not confined to the gallery - it is found throughout the streets
A female police officer directs traffic in Pyongyang
Sungri Street, decorated for the 60th anniversary celebrations
Change of shift of the robots, otherwise known as traffic police
A beautiful old Soviet car in the hotel car park
A beautiful old Soviet car in the hotel car park
The western district of Pyongyang from our hotel window
The large block building in mid-ground is Kim Il Sung's mausoleum
An inscription from Kim Il Sung at the Revolutionary Martyrs' Cemetery
The Revolutionary Martyrs' Cemetery remembers those who died (of course!)
Bronze busts show the martyrs who are buried (or remembered) here
A row of revolutionary martyrs
Music from discreet speakers provides a calm and sombre mood
The revolutionary martyrs look across the Pyongyang skyline to May Day Stadium
Kim Jong Suk (wife of Kim Il Sung and mother of Kim Jong Il) has pride of place
At the top of the cemetery is a granite red flag that is polished every day
The largest wreath to Kim Jong Suk is from her son, the Dear Leader Kim Jong Il
Amazingly, this amusement park is found just below the cemetery
We visited the Kwangbop Buddhist Temple
It was destroyed by US bombing, but re-built by the government in 1990
It is in immaculate condition, almost as though it was never used!
The staff comprises one 'monk' and one sales lady selling postcards
The tranquil courtyard of the remote Kwangbop Buddhist Temple
The 'monk' strolls contemplatively through the temple grounds
A messenger greets visitors to the Kwangbop Buddhist Temple
The scale of the Monument to Founding of the Korean Workers Party dwarfs people
A housing block beside the Monument to the Founding of the Korean Workers Party
A close view of the Monument to the Founding of the Korean Workers Party
Reliefs on the Monument to the Founding of the Korean Workers Party
The hammer, brush and sickle represent workers, intellectuals and farmers
Looking from the Party Founding Monument to the pyramid of the Ryugyong Hotel
Building of the 323 metre high 105-storey Ryugyong Hotel stopped in 1992
A housing block beside the Monument to the Founding of the Korean Workers Party
A housing block beside the Monument to the Founding of the Korean Workers Party
A group of residents in their best dress walks to the Metro entrance
The workers paradise of Pyongyang had a festive air for the holiday celebrations
Tram in Mansu Street, Pyongyang
National flags decorate Mansu Street for the 60th anniversary celebrations
Mansu Street, Pyongyang
Tram in Mansu Street, Pyongyang
Andrew in Mansu Street, Pyongyang
Stephen in Mansu Street, Pyongyang
Socialist street art at the foot of the Chollima Statue
Socialist street art at the foot of the Chollima Statue
A poster celebrating the 60th anniversary of Liberation from Japanese oppression
Socialist street art at the foot of the Chollima Statue
Pyongyangites walk past 60th anniversary street decorations
Pyongyang Grand Theatre was opened in 1960. It was built 'in Korean style'
View of Yanggak Island in the Taedong River, showing the golf course
View of Pyongyang's southern districts from Yanggak Island
Looking north to the Juche Tower, with May Day Stadium in the background left
View of Pyongyang's eastern districts from Yanggak Island
The Taedong River, looking north from Yanggak Island
View of Pyongyang's western districts from Yanggak Island
View of Pyongyang's eastern districts from Yanggak Island
View of Pyongyang's eastern districts from Yanggak Island
Looking north to the Juche Tower, with May Day Stadium in the background left
Our hotel, the Yanggakdao, reflected in the waters of the Taedong River
The Tower to the Juche Idea honours Kim Il Sung's philosophy of self-reliance
Looking across the Taedong River to the Tower of the Juche Idea
At the foot of the Juche Tower is the worker-farmer-intellectual statue
Dinner on our last night was on this boat opposite the Tower to the Juche Idea
The boat never left the shoreline
Leaving the hotel for the trip highlight - the mass games
On our last night, we attended the opening night of the spectacular mass games
Kim Jong Il was present, so cameras were not allowed. This is from a video
I will never forget the electric atmosphere when the Dear Leader entered
The performance was in May Day Stadium, with an audience of over 100,000 people
Over 50,000 people participated in the performance
A major theme was peace and reunification
CNN reporters were at our performance and filed a report for global viewing
Stephen was interviewed about the messages he saw in the mass games
A well-dressed Andrew proudly shows his ticket to mass games opening night
Our visas were kept by DPRK authorities - a photo is our only memento
Pyongyang Central Railway Station was the starting point of our return journey
We travelled from Pyongyang to the Chinese border and on to Beijing
Some DPRK children going to Beijing are farewelled at Pyongyang Railway Station
Andrew beside our Chinese railway carriage before departure
A typical DPRK railway station
A larger DPRK railway station
Andrew teaching some Belgian friends some amazing card tricks
Monuments in Sinuiju
Sinuiju is the DPRK's border city with China on the Yalu River
'Advertising' at Sinuiju Railway Station
Sinuiju Railway Station
The shop at Sinuiju Railway Station
Looking across the Yalu River to the Chinese city of Dandong
The Chinese city of Dandong differs greatly from its DPRK twin across the river
Our journey finished at Beijing Railway Station
Andrew beside our rail carriage at Beijing railway Station
Beijing Railway Station