RAMADI, Iraq - In a carpeted office filled with oversized gold embroidered chairs, the governor of troubled Anbar province talked about his region's sagging infrastructure — over the rattle of machine-gun fire and the thud of grenade launchers reverberating from the roof.

Gov. Maamoun Sami Rashid al-Alwani seemed almost oblivious to the commotion as U.S. Marines in firing positions lined with sandbags and bulletproof glass blasted away at an insurgent trying to plant a roadside bomb nearby.

The government center is a favorite target in this city at the center of Iraq's insurgency and dozens of Marines from the 3rd Battalion, 7th Regiment live in one wing to fend off the frequent attacks.

Four Anbar governors have served in less than three years. One was assassinated, another resigned after surviving an attack and two, including the current one, have had sons kidnapped. Recently, local tribal leaders who have met with U.S. commanders have been killed.

Marines posted on the roof have to stay sharp.

When their lieutenant approaches, they immediately pause and shout out five things: their name and rank, their gun's lateral limits, the direction their gun is facing, guidelines to fire, and any nearby friendly units. The idea is to make sure they are alert at all times...