A right was working with some sets reaching 6ft.
Left had a few waves but mostly shutting
down. I surfed alone from 6am! A few guys
joined me later at 8am Light winds and
glassy, with wind picking up a little
later. I surfed my trashed 6'0" and had a
terrible surf. It could be cuz i took a piss
right under the temple and pissed of the gods! WHo knows anything is possible
here.
A walk over the reef takes about 20 min from
the beach to the lineup. The feet get softer and the reef gets sharper, it is
the worst at low tide when its dry. If you come here bring booties, or risk
cutting your feet every time. Seems like looking at the lip where I am
going is less important than looking at the camera. Still it was a good smack 2
sec later! Berry taking a fast one on the left. look at
the shoulder rising on the left all the way to the
channel. Who took my melons!