Runalong

Political Wisdom? Isn't that an oxymoron? Almost. But there are a few sane voices out there now and then. Here are two that helped me think more clearly this morning - these are just excerpts to give you the flavor, click on the links for the full articles:

"Do you ever get the feeling that at this point Washington is run by two rival gangs that have a great deal in common with each other, including an essential lack of interest in the well-being of the turf on which they fight?"- Peggy Noonan, speaking about Iraq, but applicable to the state of most current political debates.

Thomas Jefferson wrote the most important words in American history: “all men are created equal.” Jefferson was also a slave owner, which made him a hypocrite. But the fact that Jefferson was living a life that was at odds with his principles doesn’t invalidate and shouldn't weaken the principle; it only means that we, as fallen creatures, need to strive harder to live up to what we know to be right. - Peter Wehner on Hypocrisy.

Hurray: It's a sunny day! Or is it? Now it's cloudy but it looks like it might clear, or will it? The day started sunny, then the low clouds moved in, then out, then back in, then we were socked in at the top of Forcletta and getting pelted with hail. Bummer. The views on the downhill side of today's hike are supposed to be some of the best of the whole route. And now it's clearing. And the view from the point is one of the most spectacular vistas we've ever viewed! Fantastic views both up the valley (toward Zermatt and the Matterhorn, though we can't see them yet) and down valley and across the valley toward Grachen and Gasenreid.

The little town of Jurgen, perched precariously on the mountainside, high above St Nick was as cute as advertised. Mrs Runalong and the Bex hopped a tram for the unexpectedly thrilling ride down ("hey, it's a LONNNNNG way down!"). I ran youthfully past about 20 shrines (taking the day full circle from merry hail to Hail, Mary) and met them at what turned out to be a disappointing village.

St. Nick seemed largely deserted with only one affordable hotel and one place to eat. The overly made-up woman at the tourist center thrusted her heaving bosom to and fro as she talked: "Dorms? That's for big groups." "Are they nice?" "I don't know anything about dorms. We have nice hotels..." Yeah, OK, whatever. Fortunately she was an anomoly compared to most of the people we met. Our hotel room was huge however and, oddly enough, included a tanning bed and sauna!

Pics 1-2: Going up! By the time we got to the top (pic 2) we were socked in & it was hailing & howling! Pics 5-6: Jurgen (pic 4 looks north; pic 5 east & pic 6 south).

To be honest I can't remember much about this section. My notes say that it was only an "OK" day, as there were low clouds most of the day blocking any views. Fortunately the remaining days of the trip were Grrrreat!

Pic 1: Typical Zinal home. Pic 2: A typical scene from an "OK" day.

When someone asks me what I think about global warming, I've basically answered along these lines...

only not so eloquently.

I bought Mrs R a knee brace at the pharmacy and that seemed to help her a lot today. At breakfast there were, as usual, several kinds of cheese set out. My lovely wife reached out with her hand and grabbed the slice that looked best to her... oops, that's not cheese, that's butter... "yuck!" Two members of our family got a big laugh out of that.

We all hopped on the bus Monday morning; I got off at Les Hauderes, where I had left off yesterday; Mrs Runalong and Bex stayed on to La Sage, a few miles up the road. It was a fairly easy hike until I met them at La Sage, then it got steep. The views behind us were wonderful (see pics). It was a steep climb of about 4000' to the Col de Torrent where we were greeted by more panoramas and a steep hike down to Lac Moiry with tons of wildflowers.

The cabin at the Lac Moiry dam was expensive so my two companions hopped another bus to Zinal while I went up and over another high Col to a big ski area on the other side. The sky was threatening but apart from a touch of rain mixed with snow flakes it turned out OK. Not having a pack I was able to run wildly down the long, steep, technical trail to Zinal, going as fast as I could without risking a disastrous fall. Thus we again completed two stages in one day.

On the bus from Les Hauderes to La Sage, an old (80-ish) couple got on, barely able to climb up onto the bus and totter gingerly back to their seats. They had backpacks and hiking poles and got off at a trailhead for a hike.

1) La Sage, (2) Hiking out of Val d'Herens, (3) Lac Moiry, (4) Zinal

Good intentions can have bad consequences. Our welfare system, from LBJ until Clinton's reforms, is a case in point. Combined with the sexual revolution it lead to an epidemic of broken families and fatherless homes which in turn lead to further poverty and untold suffering.

If we want to help poor people through the political system (I assume we want to and are finding ways to help as individuals and churches); then we need to understand poverty: its definition and causes - before we can begin to figure out how to "cure" it. You want your doctor to make a careful diagnosis before they he starts prescribing drugs and surgery- good intentions aren't enough!

This article provides a lot of background and data that anyone needs to consider as we look for ways to reduce poverty in the US. That's a good goal and should be the aim and prayer of all Christians. But we also need to be wise and be sure we are truly helping. Good intentions might be enough to make us feel better about ourselves, but unless they really help solve the problem (and not make it worse!), they're not worth squat.

Understanding Poverty in America.

I promised Mrs R and Bex a rest day so they took the bus from Arolla to Evolene and I hiked to Les Hauderes where I took a bus to Evolene, which was not on the route but was a pretty town with affordable accomodations.

Sunday morning July 22nd in Arolla: there was no suitable church in the small village but we were nevertheless treated to contemporary Christian music (in French) over the hotel speakers while we ate breakfast. They had the best yogurt we ever tasted and you could add homemade apricot or raspberry puree! A few hours later I stopped at a small dairy farm where a very nice lady who spoke only French served me the best glass of milk I've ever had.

It was basically a rest day for me too as I hiked/ran to Les Hauderes (about 2/3 of the way to Evolene); a cute little town that was having a big street fair (I enjoyed some fresh Belgian waffles) and then caught the bus to Evolene where we found a very nice hotel (and Becky got her own room) with real wood panelling. Obviously it used to be THE PLACE in Evolene and was showing its age a little but we really enjoyed it. Evolene is a very pretty town and we all enjoyed our rest day.

The dairy area (2); and Evolene:

What a day!!!

It began by climbing up a small col. From there we saw beautiful Lac des Dix (Lake Dix), though it was initialy covered by some beautiful clouds; from the col we could see the next four hours of our route; had a close encounter with chamois (see pics); followed by a long hard climb, then a brief descent to Cabane des Dix; across a glacier and up a steep pile of boulders to a narrow trail with big drop-offs.

From there we climbed a 70' ladder to the top of the cliff (a bit tricky with a backpack and a bum shoulder as well as being psychologically intimidating); then the long, long descent to Arolla (sensory overload with the extravagant profusion of wildflowers and the sound of glacial ice cracking loudly). There we found our best lodging yet at a great price (they were even playing contemporary worship music over the sound system in the restaurant- in French!).

Again there were times this fine Saturday in July when I wondered, "What have I got us into?" Mrs R had a tough day (hangover from yesterday's tough hike) but she pushed herself really hard and made it. But the story is best told in pictures...













(Too many picks for one entry - continued below)

The only way across this icy river was to flop up on this rock and over:

Friday July 20th was a very "trisky" but fascinating high country hike. We saw two ibex and three chamois; hiked across scree and boulders and snow and a tricky river crossing (due to getting off course). The snow crossings were steep with unpleasant consequences should one fall but the snow was soft and we made it safely. At times though, I did wonder, "what have I gotten us into?". We hiked past the Grand Combin and had many great vistas on a day with lots of warm sun and a fair share of cold rain with thunder. The weather changes dramatically and rapidly in the Alps.

But everyone was in a good mood. Then, near the bottom of the last descent, I caught my foot on something and fell. Trying not to fall forward down a semi-steep muddy and rocky path with my big backpack I rolled left and managed to fall with no damage except...

Somehow, while falling, I tore something in my shoulder. Immediate and searing pain. I could barely move my left arm and that only with great pain. Fortunately we were only hiking and not mountain climbing so I could get by without one arm!

As soon as we got to the hut a huge storm hit and lasted most of the evening. Cabane de Prafleuri was unimpressive in itself but for one thing: dinner was all you can eat! After eight hours of hard hiking, that's no insignificant blessing.

... if you didn't know how old you are?

Mike Flynt returns to playing college football after taking time off to get married, raise kids, have a couple careers, etc.

Day 4 began with a lllooonnnggg descent from Champex to the town of Sembrancher where we then had to walk to the far end of town to buy food for the next two days and use the only ATM we would see from day 2 to day 6. Sembrancher, at about 2000' elevation is the lowest point on the route, had a very interesting old town center of old buildings and narrow streets.

The ladies hopped a train to Le Chable, four miles up valley, while I got a little run in. Then they took the trams up to Verbier and almost all the way up to the hut we would stay in; while I hiked up the mountain, climbing from 2000' elevation to 8000'; equivalent to climbing out of the Grand Canyon. It wasn't bad (or if it was, I've forgotten) except that it was the warmest day of the trip. The views were great and I made good time arriving at the hut around five, sooner than anyone expected me. Thus we actually completed two stages in one day (Champex to Le Chable & LC to MF).

We hung out with some of our new friends we'd met in Trient and I tried to get some dinner but the one hut worker didn't speak any English and couldn't believe how stupid I was every time he spoke German to me and I just stared back blankly. He'd try speaking louder but it didn't work. I could tell he was getting frustrated with me so I gave up; but later Ellery, a German-American teen from Berlin who was hiking the route solo, interceded for me and got me some much appreciated spaghetti. Later we stood out on the deck and watched the clouds come up the mountain toward us. We didn't get to see a sunset but we saw a lot of lightning.

Pics: Sembrancher; looking down toward Le Chable and Sembrancher;
Cabane du Mont Fort

I'm usually not a big fan of Money magazine but this is one of the best investment-advice articles you'll ever read.

A list that begins with "Be humble" and ends with "Keep money in its place" earns the Pastoral Seal of Approval.

Day 3 was pretty challenging; 4400 feet of ascent (and almost as much descent) over 9 miles. As Mrs R kept noting; Swiss miles are NOT like American miles. She's right: nine miles would normally just be a typical day's run for me but in Switzerland it's a full day's hike. Must have something to do with the 4400' of climbing. Also: the Swiss don't follow American guidelines for slope and steepness. They KNOW about switchbacks, we found them here and there; they just don't like to use them most of the time. Why waste all that time when you can just go straight up?

In Trient we met quite a few English-speaking folks, including some Americans. This was a surprise. By this time we had been in Switzerland for two weeks and had not met any Americans and had rarely overheard someone from Britain or Australia speaking English. Of course we weren't going to the big towns or the popular tourist destinations for the most part, preferring off-the-beaten path villages and such. Because many of the people we met were also doing the Haute Route we saw them frequently over the next week although we weren't all moving at the same pace. Still it was nice to make some new friends.

From Trient we climbed and climbed and climbed up to Alp Bovine (or, as we'd say in America, "Cow Farm"). We had some great views of the Rhone Valley. To my surprise we met some trail runners coming down the opposite way; this part of the Haute Route is also part of the equally demanding Tour du Mont Blanc route which circumnavigates Mont Blanc. There is a multi-stage trail race that follows that 100+ mile route in August and these folks were training.

After the long hard climb to the top of the Col we sat down for a picnic lunch. The spot was already occupied by another group of about 15 hearty hikers enjoying their bread and cheese and the marvelous views in both directions. More trail runners? No, this group consisted entirely of women, none of whom appeared to be under 65; none of whom appeared to be athletic (most of them were noticeably soft around the middle). But they had made the climb and were having a great time- they left the spot while we lingered.

Later we had one of the gnarliest descents of the trip, practically straight down a cliff with a "trail" consisting primarily of routes and rocks. Runners call these "technical trails" - this one was more "technical" than "trail". It was nasty. But as we neared the bottom, there was this church ladies' group (or whatever they were; in the US they would have been a knitting group), sitting by a waterfall, resting and snacking and talking and laughing. Our church has a 50+ group but they mostly go out to eat and have sing-alongs: I don't think we could get them to join us for a hike up to Alp Bovine! Later we saw the women in Champex at the end of the day; tired but happy.

After leaving the col we stopped at a little cafe up on the mountain in the middle of nowhere and bought more outrageously priced cokes. While we were there a helicopter landed and two guys got out and had cokes also. In the Swiss mountains helicopter patrols are routine.

All day the weather was unsettled. Shortly after we got to Champex we had a big downpour with lightning. It was the first of many evenings in a row in which the weather held off all day for us and broke loose just after we got to our lodging.

The dorm in Champex was a little tacky, one of our least favorites, but not crowded, and all the hotels were ridiculously expensive. Becky and I went out for spaghetti (or was it pizza?). We ate a lot of spaghetti and pizza on this trip because: A) They were often the only two things on the menu we could read (though we weren't always able to translate the pizza toppings) and B) they were usually the only two things we could afford (about $12-15 per person as opposed to $30+ for most items). In the morning we all got a yummy and calorie-laden breakfast at the bakery.

Pics: 1- The Little Ol' Swiss Ladies' Club rests after a 4000' climb.
2- Alp Bovine and the Rhone Valley
3- The Descent of Gnarliness

The second day of the Haute Route is moderate by HR standards; 7.5 miles and 3000' each of ascent and descent. Mrs R opted to avoid most of the ascent by taking the tram up to Col de Balme (7000' altitude); Becky hiked up the first half with me and then took the $1 tram up the second half. I met them at the cafe on the top where we enjoyed marvelous views (and tiny little coca-colas for $2 each) before descending from France into Switzerland and the town of Trient. It was the first day in which my lovely companions learned that going downhill is much harder on the body than going uphill!

This was our first night (of many) on the route in which we had no reservations, but not to worry. There were plenty of room at the inn (the ONLY inn in Trient). Here's a pic from the top, looking back; and the beginning of the long descent toward Trient.

Rather than start at the beginning of our amazing summer adventures, I'll begin with the end. The last two weeks were spent hiking the Haute Route from Chamonix, France (at the foot of Mt Blanc) to Zermatt, Switzerland (at the foot of the Matterhorn). The route, which began as a cross-country ski touring route has been adapted for summer hiking. It goes from the most massive mountain in Europe to the most recognizable. The guide book (by Kev Reynolds) recommends doing the route over 14 days; I set our trek up as a 13 day adventure. Because we would be staying in huts or villages each night, we didn't need to carry any camping gear. Also, if the going got too rough for Mrs Runalong, she could skip a day here or there and take a bus to the next village. There were also some trams and gondolas along the way if she wanted to skip a big climb or descent (she did!). I carried her clothes and stuff along with my own and she carried our lunches and such. Becky carried her own stuff.

From the guidebook: "Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn- recipe for a visual feast! To walk from one to another is to sample that feast in full measure; a gourmet extravaganza of scenic wonders... In two weeks of mountain travel you will be witness to the greatest collection of 4000 meter (13,000 feet) peaks in all the Alps and visit some of the most spectacular valleys. There you'll find delightful villages and remote alp hamlets, wander flower meadows and deep fragrant forests... cross icy streams and glaciers... The route is over 180 meters (112 miles) long. It crosses eleven passes and gains more than 12,000 meters (40,000 feet) in height."

Our first day was easy; after a long train ride from Locarno; we arrived in Chamonix in late afternoon, grabbed a few burgers at McDonald's* and headed toward Argentiere only six miles away in the valley.


Mont Blanc

*A beautiful building, inside and out, with espresso and beer on the menu and free wifi!

Two months between posts seems like long enough, eh? I've been back for two weeks but have been getting caught up with stuff. By Monday I'll have my first entry and pics from Europe up. It was a vacation of a lifetime, yessirree, Bob. Spread the word!