How to Install the Aritronix SCORPIO
SR-i500 Alarm
’04 K12GT
Hopefully this guide will help you NOT make some of the mistakes I did and allow your installation to proceed quickly. Please read all the way through these instructions before proceeding.
Begin by removing the seat, and both rear side body panels. You will also need to remove the left side luggage rack arm (yellow arrow indicates where this arm is normally located but has already been removed).
The toughest part of this installation was trying to find the best place to mount the Main Control Module (MCM). I finally decided to mount it behind and under the seat latch bracket. It is almost level as recommended by the installation manual and allows you to retain use of the under-seat storage area.
Remove the four hex bolts indicated by the red arrows in the photo and carefully slide the right side of the bracket (indicated by the green arrow) toward the front of the bike (thereby disengaging the locking bar – indicated by the blue arrow - from the key hole in the side panel) and remove.
Plug both harnesses (Main Harness – HAR-1 & Accessory Harness) into
the MCM (or plug the accessory socket if none were purchased with the included
plug). Plug the Generic
Installation Kit (GEN-1) – not shown – into HAR-1. Route the wires generally as shown in
the photo. A single wire-tie
around the unit is sufficient to keep it from moving laterally. The bracket will prevent vertical
movement after it is re-installed.
HAR-1 MCM Accessory Harness
This photo shows the bracket installed back in place over the MCM.
The trickiest part of this installation is getting the rubber grommet (indicated by the yellow arrows) that surrounds the locking bar back in place and sealing the opening between the bar and the surrounding bodywork.
I found that inserting the U-shaped grommet back in to the hole after first wetting it down with soapy water, eased the installation.
Begin by sliding the bracket back in place opposite the way it was removed. Work the grommet out and over the bar from the inside while pushing the bar through the hole in the bodywork. This will take a bit of patience as the grommet is designed to be smaller than the hole in the bodywork until the bar is inserted in it, but it will definitely go back together.
Locking Bar
Route the wires as shown below. Note the location of the fuse holder (yellow circle/arrow)
The Red line indicates the power lead (part of HAR-1). It runs under the side frame, under the cross bar frame and then down to the positive + battery lead.
Commentary: Note To Self (and Others): Be extremely careful when removing and replacing the 10mm nut on the positive battery lead. If one is fumble-fingered and drops the nut and/or washer – it/they will vanish into the pan under the ABS module located adjacent to the battery. One can add at least an hour to the installation time in order to get that @#$^%@#$%^ nut and/or washer out from under said ABS unit. On a positive note, one might find the source of a rattle that has existed since taking delivery of the bike – a body panel screw that was sacrificed by the dealer to said locale…… :-) !
The Light Blue line represents the four other leads from HAR-1 that terminate in a white connector. GEN-1 should already be connected to the end of HAR-1 and is hidden by the VIN plate above. Cut off the red spade connectors installed on GEN-1 and strip the insulation back 1/8”.
The Orange line indicates the orange wire from GEN-1.
The Pink line indicates the two grey wires and the black wire from GEN-1.
The Dark Blue line indicates the coax and antenna.
The White line represents the motion sensor wire connected to the Accessory Harness.
Page 3 of the SR-i500 Installation Manual includes a color code chart for Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Yamaha, and Harley Davidson. Below is the one for the ’04 K12GT.
Color Codes:
|
|
Ground (-) |
License Plate Light |
Left Turn Signal |
Right Turn Signal |
|
BMW K12GT |
BROWN |
GRY/BLU |
BLU/RED |
BLU/BLK |
I chose to use the license plate light instead of the taillight so there was no possibility of interfering with ABS operation.
There is an unused connector on the left side of the bike where I was able to make all but one of the GEN-1 connections. I found that the stock pins in the connector fit snugly into a standard 14-16-gauge barrel connector. If they are a bit loose, they can be LIGHTLY crimped to ensure a snug fit. Attach barrel connectors to all leads on GEN-1. Make the connections as indicated in photo.
All connections
should be doped with silicon grease to prevent corrosion.
HAR-1 GRY to
BLU/RED & BLU/BLK Unused
Connector HAR-1 BLK to BROWN HAR-1 Switched Power Lead TO: Plate light on opposite side. Antenna Coax Antenna HAR-1/GEN-1
Connection
I found that zipping the two HAR-1 Gray leads held them securely in the connector. The main zip tie (white arrow) keeps pressure forward on barrel connectors into unused connector.
The HAR-1 ORN lead isn’t long enough to wrap around to the other side of the frame, so I used a barrel connection to extend the ORN lead. As shown in the photo below, the black line indicated by the arrow is the ORN lead extension (I didn’t have any orange 14 gauge wire).
Cut back the heat-shrink on the stock tail section cable (carries, tail light, brake light, plate light, left turn indicator, right turn indicator, and ground) to expose enough of the GRY/BLU wire to attach a tap connector to it. Independent of the GRY/BLU wire, use electrical tape to repair cut in heat-shrink.
Connect ORN extension wire to GRY/BLU wire with tap connector.
ORN-GRY/BLU Tap connection ORN Extension
Wire Brake Light
(GRY/BLK) Tail Light
(GRY/YEL) Plate Light
(GRY/BLU) Left Turn
(BLU/RED) Right Turn
(BLU/BLK) Ground (BRN)
Using electrical tape, first wrap the tap connection, and then wrap entire assembly back to main tail section cable. In addition to the silicone grease, wrapping the assembly this way ensures minimal potential water penetration and corrosion. It also adds strength to the overall bundle and ensures the GRY/BLU wire doesn’t encounter any undue stress now that it is separated from the main bundle.
I opted for the motion sensor accessory with my kit. As indicated on Page 4, the connection to the motion sensor from the Accessory Cable routes down under the right side frame member. It hits the cross bar shown below and comes right to the sensor that is mounted with the included Velcro fastener to the emissions canister below the tool kit bin.
MCM Power Cable Zip-tie MCM Power
Cable Motion
Sensor Motion
Sensor Cable Cross Bar
Notes:
Don’t
try to use the RED/WHT wire in the unused connector on the left side of the
bike for the ORN wire connection.
Been there – done that.
Turns out that wire is powered all the time (even with key off). As a result the alarm won’t arm. I ended up taking the entire back end
apart again to see if I might have missed something with the harness plug
installation (meaning I had to redo that darned rubber grommet installation
TWICE). It wasn’t until I tried to
reprogram the remote that it became clear something else was wrong. Another quick check with the
multi-meter confirmed the problem was that the RED/WHT wire was powered even
with the ignition in the off position.
If you
do drop the battery nut/washer, the only thing I found that worked to retrieve
them was a good old-fashioned bent coat hanger – bent especially for the
task. The nut and washer were easy
to get out once I found them because of the space between the side and bottom
of the pan on the left side of the bike.
The body panel screw was another story. Had to break out the duct tape, form a small ball, and
attach it to the end of a magnetic retrieval tool in order to get it out (the
body panel screws are aluminum).
If you have questions, please drop an e-mail message to: rick.sanford@gte.net.
Completed installation Right Side:
Completed Installation Left Side:
