Day 13 May 23rd, our 29th wedding anniversary - Picasso, Pompidou, Les Halles
We decided that Square Trousseau seemed a likely location for a celebratory dinner but I wanted to see the menu myself. We walked over and booked - there looks like some yummy choices on the menu for tonight.
My French is getting better with practice. I am managing to retrieve long lost vocabulary. The stereotype is that Parisians are rude when you speak bad French but that hasn’t been my experience.
Today we visited two museums, Picasso and Pompidou - a change of pace from yesterday’s ancient art! The Picasso Museum has a fairly wide range of art but no biggies. I did see one or two paintings I liked - in particular, a lovely small painting of two women running on the beach. Richard noticed after that this picture was chosen to be on the cover of our museum card holders / brochure.
The Georges Pompidou centre is an extraordinary building with all the services (plumbing, elevators, etc.) on the outside. It didn’t look as huge as the pictures of it imply but after looking at the permanent art collection, I would say it is big enough!
First we ate our picnic lunch on the steps of a church overlooking some colourful fountains and water toys. We had picked up pain au chocolat from a boulangerie on our walks - scrumptious! Light croissant pastry, a creamy filling of chocolate...And then we ate our apples, like a good boy and girl!
The view from the top floor of the centre is wonderful - in the distance, the grand arch of La Defense, closer to us, Notre Dame and on the hillside, Sacre Coeur. Then the art!Centre National d’Art et de Culture Georges Pompidou (Beaubourg) focuses on art after 1905. We started from the earliest works on the 5th floor - all the big names and some paintings I recognized. After too much Jackson Pollock, we were impressed by some paintings by Dado, in particular one of the slaughter of the innocents which used running red paint over the faces of a multitude of children. You had to look closely to see the children. Chilling. On a lighter note, I saw some interesting photos, many of Paris by Doisneau and Cartier-Bresson (?)
The lower floor has the most modern works - installations, furniture, multimedia, etc. Some amusing and interesting, many tedious (at least to us!) The museum was not busy except for school groups. I guess the hordes were at the Orsay or the Louvre! By the time we left the building, there were more buskers and other people just hanging out! A great people watching place.
We went to see the “new” Les Halles, now a shopping centre. Critics seem to uniformly condemn the new building and its effect on the neighbourhood. Interestingly, they have put the mall building below grade with a park at street level surrounding it. We didn’t bother going in but admired the mirrored effect of the building and the reflections of the church. Lots of tourists hanging around.
We walked through a vibrant pedestrian street, Rue Montorgueil with fishmongers, boulangeries, and more. We walked through part of Sentier, the garment district along side streets and rue Reaumur. I wanted to go to the discount store Tati which I had seen featured on a Lonely Planet television show and so we walked to Republic. It turned out to quite a small branch with no changing rooms. With the help of three older women, I tried on a dress over my clothes (they were doing the same thing!) So I got my bargain Parisian dress...hope it fits without my jeans and blouse!
Richard had been waiting outside with the rest of the husbands and then we went across to a brasserie to recover - biere pression for him and a grand cafe creme for me. All drinks at sidewalk cafes are about the same price - my large coffee, Richard’s draught and a small mineral water each were about 3 Euros.
In our walk home, we passed a lock on Canal St. Martin after a small boat had gone through. Richard would have liked to have seen the whole operation. Then back to Blvd. Richard Lenoir and home to get ready for dinner at Le Square Trousseau. We passed the official International Youth Hostel on Richard Lenoir on our way back. The location is good and the lobby was bustling with happy young people. It looks like a good place to stay.
We chose this restaurant because it is has a Belle Epoque interior and the reviews are good, moderate in price and within easy walking distance. The meal was good, a little more expensive than A La Biche au Bois (no prix fixe or formule) and seems very much a neighbourhood place (regulars got complimentary aperitifs).
Richard has scallops with lemon and olives - the scallops were very small (chopped?) but dish was very tasty. I had tomatoes with mozzarella - sizable, good and with creamy cheese but perhaps a better sharing plate. Richard had a small rack of lamb with mushrooms, eggplant and green beans in a brown sauce (??!) - excellent. I had duck slices with caramelized carrot - tasty but I wished that I had had the courage to ask for rare, not medium! My dessert was peaches in butterscotch sauce, light and sweet. Richard had “exotic” fruit (not really!) with a biscuit on top (like a brandy snap). Coffee came with soft chocolate fudge. Next time, I will forgo dessert and wait for the fudge - delicious! We shared a half bottle of Morgon and of sparkling mineral water.
An enjoyable meal - Richard said he liked it better than A La Biche Au Bois because his was lighter....
As far as atmosphere, our table was marginally more private but still the next table had to be moved to allow me to get out of my seat. And there were some young friends of the staff or management celebrating someone’s birthday rather boisterously. But c’est la vie!
We did learn a few things - that there is sometimes a house wine by carafe NOT on the menu and that it is acceptable in Paris (as it is at home!) to share starters. I wondered how all those French stay so slim with multi-course meals!
Day 14 - Versailles
I set our alarm clock so that we could get an early start. I nipped out to the boulangerie around the corner to get a baguette and got waylaid by some pain au chocolat. We had decided we would pack a lunch because the territory is so big.
We took the RER suburban train from Austerlitz to Versailles Rive Gauche. The RER station and ticket counter is below the main line station. Price: just under 5 euros return for each of us for our 45 minute train journey. It is a short walk from the train station to the Chateau.
We arrived at 10 am, just in time for a guided tour (4 euros on top of entry fee - covered by the third day of our 3 day museum pass) whose theme was the daily life of Louis XIV. It was wonderful, highly recommended. The guide, part of the Musees de France, was knowledgeable, our group was small (just 6 of us) and we were able to visit a few rooms only open to those on a tour or those who rent the audio guide. Because our guide had huge keys to doors that block the general public, we were able to move from room to room the way the king would have, not the courtiers with the added bonus that we avoided the crowds. We also learned some interesting details about the kings, architectural style, daily life, and the palace itself - for example, that the Hall of Mirrors cost more than the rooms with paintings, that Venetian craftsmen with the secret of mirror-making was invited to come to France to train craftsmen.
After our tour, we were able to make a complete circuit of the public rooms on our own. By this time the palace was packed and we shuffled through with incipient claustrophobia! We decided to save the garden until later because it was a little drizzly and cool. so we walked to the two Trianons (covered by museum pass). I really liked the Grand Trianon - the brightness of the rooms and the lightness of the furnishings (Empire). Then to Le Hameau, Marie-Antoinette’s private fantasy village, complete with thatched cottages, fanciful architecture, animals and gardens. Lovely cottage gardens of white calla lilies.
There is a fee now to visit the main gardens, 3 euros (not covered by museum pass) but worthwhile. The ticket is good for the whole day (multiple entry). We visited just some of the bosquets (groves) because the grounds are so vast. We had seen the fanciful paintings of the Versailles gardens in the Grand Trianon which illustrated these groves. Especially impressive were:
the ballroom (rocaille) which was designed like a Roman amphitheatre with a cascade decorated with millstones and shells brought back from the Indian Ocean and the Red Sea by the royal navy. This is the only grove that is entirely authentic and intact.
Baths of Apollo with sculptures in a grotto.
Colonnade Grove with Persephone
Best of all, because the fountain was playing, Encelade Grove with the chief of the Titans. Water gushed from his finger tips and sprayed high in the air. It gave us a taste of what the others must be like when they are working.
By this time it was about 3:30 and we decided to see whether we could see the chateau again without the crowds. We were able to walk through the rooms at a reasonable pace, stop and appreciate the spectacle and the grandeur.
We took a short walk in the town of Versailles before we took the train home. There was a delay with the trains - no explanation and the sign boards did not match the trains. But they all go to Paris and we had seats! Still we had to be serenaded by some accordionists again...
Laundry tonight after a quick supper. We had been washing shirts and undies out by hand but I decided we could not wait any longer! Quick and efficient and just around the corner. 3.40 euros for a 7 kg load. 1 euro for 10 minutes drying time.
Day 15 Paris walkabout, Institut du Monde Arabe Luxembourg Gardens
We headed for Marche d’Aligre near us to get some cheese and something for dinner. It was even more boisterous than our previous visit, jammed with food stands, clothing stalls and household goods. After a quick look around (strawberries were 1 euro a kilo today!), we decided to try the market building. I queued for cheese while Richard cruised the market, ostensibly looking for other items. People seem quite content to stand in line here, especially if it is for food! However, we did notice several queues at photofinishers the other day and again today. They can’t be just picking up their holiday snaps because the Japan Camera shop had no queue. A mystery!
I bought several cheeses including some wonderfully runny brie and a small piece of sweet butter. I also risked getting a small goat cheese, Rocamadour (85 cents, Euro cents!) because Richard is not fond of goat and I am not sure about me! On the way back, we stopped at Bazin boulangerie and bought a couple of fresh still warm baguettes (actually Bazinettes!). Home to a lunch of the brie and the French bread. Heaven!
Since it was Saturday, we thought we would walk to Luxembourg Gardens and we crossed the Seine at Austerlitz train station. On the way past Gare de Lyon, we looked in the Train Bleu, a famous restaurant that has featured in several movies. Breakfast looked affordable so we might go back.
We also stopped to ask at the tourist information booth about the museum passes (now 30 Euros for 3 days) and indeed, Carnavalet is no longer included. We may not get another one except perhaps a 1 day pass to avoid queuing at the Louvre.
We were interested in the Institut du Monde Arabe which many claim to be the most beautiful recent building in Paris and it is wonderful. The one wall of the building has an outer shell of mechanical occuli or eyes which open and shut to adjust the light in the building, operated by high tech wizardry (photo electric cells, perhaps). This gives the building an unusual facade as well as creating interesting light patterns inside. We went in (free except must pass through security x- ray) and went to the observation deck on the top floor for a great view of Notre Dame. The vantage point faces the end of the Ile de la Cite.
From there we walked along to Place Contrescarpe, one of Rick Steves’ recommended areas to stay in Paris. It looks wonderful, lively, full of cafes, families, music and joie de vivre! We wandered down Rue Mouffetard, a market street with strolling Parisians and energetic salespeople including a carpet cleaner demonstrator. I noticed that berry prices was higher here than our market...
Although the afternoon was wearing on, the Luxembourg Gardens was still crowded with Parisians relaxing. We went to see the manege, the merry-go-round which Richard had just read about in “Paris to the Moon” by Adam Gopnik. Children have little sticks to grab rings from a contraption the operator holds as they go around. Some experienced kids had managed to snaffle half a dozen. We were amused to see some of the lawns labeled Pelouse Authorise. Some tourists got hustled off the unauthorized lawns and we heard them asking each other about it in great confusion. The gardens seem to have everything from tennis and a basketball court to fountains, a puppet theatre and pony rides for children.
We decided to walk back along Rue de St-Andre-des-Arts which is a narrow medieval street recommended by one guidebook. From there, onto Ile de la Cite past Notre Dame, on to the next island along Rue Saint-Louis to get a Berthillon ice cream (ginger!) and home by a shortcut across the Canal St. Martin.
For dinner we made a potato and cheese dish we have made at home. It is from Elizabeth David’s French country cookbook. Here however we were able to make it with Cantal cheese which made it especially tasty with some of French thin green beans.
I have decided that canoe tripping is good practice for cooking with two burners (really a hotplate), two pots and a fry pan. There was salt, pepper and thyme in the cupboard when we arrived. We bought Dijon mustard, lemons, olive oil, a tube of tomato paste as staples. Together with cheese, eggs, cooked ham, fresh bread, fruit and vegetables, we are eating extremely well. I also discovered fromage frais with 0% fat content which is great with fruit. The studio has a French press coffee maker (Bodum type), tea pot, basic dishes and cutlery, an electric kettle and of course, wine glasses. On a canoe trip, we don’t have the luxury of a fridge or a kitchen sink, so we are all set.
Day 16 Arc de Triomphe, Les Grands Boulevards, Jardin du Tuileries et plus!
We reserved our Loire Valley chateaux day trip with Acco-Dispo this morning. The company provides shuttle service between a set list of chateaux each day. We also made our TGV reservations (6 euros each on a early morning weekday train). This will be another of our train pass days and we realize that three weeks in Paris is not really very long!
After a browse through the Bastille /Richard Lenoir market, we took the Metro to Etoile. When we arrived at the Arc de Triomphe, it was pouring. An enterprising salesman was hawking umbrellas for 5 euros. Thankfully we had our jackets and I had my trusty foldup umbrella in my bag. However, we did shelter with others in the lee of a magazine vendor’s shop during the heaviest rain.
Much of that area was blocked off because President Bush was here. We crossed to stand under the arch and then later, because the road was closed to traffic, we were able to stand in the middle of the road and take a couple of photos. We did not go up into the arch - it was still pouring and visibility was poor. But we could see La Defense in the distance and could appreciate the layout of the streets.
From there, we walked along Champs-Elysées to Place de la Concorde with its obelisk. Because of the traffic interruption further back, it was lighter than usual (also it is Sunday) and so we were able to appreciate the place. Beautiful buildings surround the Place and a good view of the Champs-Elysées.
We walked through Tuileries gardens to the Louvre and took tea in Cafe Marly overlooking the glass pyramid. Prices are strange in Paris. It was 5 Euros for tea whereas ordinary cafes charge about 3. I had anticipated a bigger bill, considering the location. Food is pricier - Richard’s delicious mille-feuilles was 10 Euros.
From there to Place Vendome, a beautiful square with a bride and groom posing against their car and very expensive shops such as Cartier and Van Cleef and Arpels. Then to Les Halles through Place des Victoires to the streets around Saint Denis, all that is left of the old neighbourhood when they pulled down the original market. The area is a strange combination of local cafes and peep shows. Then on to the Pompidou in time to catch the end of an outdoor show featuring climbers “dancing” against a giant wall, all set to music.
Then along the Rue des Francs-Bourgeois which was crowded with shoppers into Place des Vosges. And then home via Bastille. We finally took a picture of the monument!
Every day when we get back home, I ask Richard to figure out our distance that day. Next time, I will buy a pedometer! Now we have to guess by my sore thighs and by the squares on Richard’s Michelin map. Paris Atlas Par Arrondissements has been extremely useful. We bought it in Toronto at Open Air bookstore on Toronto Street before we left. Absolutely an essential travel tool.
Day 17 African Paris
A frustrating morning at the Internet cafe. For some reason, we could not connect even though we had not changed our network settings since we used our iBook there last. Finally I just checked my e-mail but no upload of this travelogue. To console ourselves we bought pain au chocolat (small one for me!) and took it home for elevenses!
Then we took the Metro to Chateau-Rouge and browsed in the batik fabric shops. I was thinking about buying some fabric which they sell in set dress lengths (6 metres). There was so much choice of patterns and fabric qualities, all very bright and vibrant. However, I didn’t buy any after all. This area has many African shops and services and many of the locals were in wonderfully colourful traditional clothing. It would be even more interesting on market day.
We walked to Rochechoart, Place du Delta and had lunch at a little cafe, Le Diplomat, chosen without recommendations and without a guidebook! My duck with olives and a side of noodles with a garnish of cheese was good (8 euros) and Richard tried croque madame with a fried egg on top, washed down with a glass of beer for him and of Beaujolais for me.
I left him to coffee while I went across the road to Tati. Now this is TATI! They own most but not all of the shops along the road, each with its own specialty - undies if you want to buy French knickers, men’s clothing, household goods and even Tati Or for jewelry. I went to the main (women’s) store and browsed. They don’t actually have a lot of merchandise but the prices are good and the quality is fair for the price. Sizes are quite small so larger women (size 16 and up) may want to try the Tatissimo department. In this shop, there were fitting rooms (cabines) but most people were either browsing or taking advantage of the easy exchange policy because I never had to wait for a room. I managed to find a typically French looking navy and white T shirt.
Richard had enjoyed his wait sipping his coffee with a view of Sacre Coeur over the roof tops and in particular, of the street washing crew! These city cleaners come with a foreman dressed in jeans and the workers, dressed in fluorescent green waterproofs. They turn on the water in the gutters and direct its flow with small rolled diverters (they actually look like pieces of carpet). It seems to be quite a science! They also have auxiliary water sprayers, a motorcycle brigade, sweepers, etc.
We wandered to the little street, rue Steinkerque that leads to the foot of Sacre Coeur. Still many tourists but not as many as on Sunday. From there towards Les Halles to find A. Simon on rue Montmartre. This shop sells equipment for the restaurant and cafe trade. Rue Montmartre changes direction - half of it joins rue Poisonnerie and the rest runs perpendicular to that. That is easier to say than to find! City blocks in Paris are NOT four-sided, nor can you just cross the street. Usually the crosswalks or the pedestrian crossing lights are situated so that you must cross several streets to get where you want to go. Also, every “corner” usually is cut by five or six streets. One must carefully look for street names whenever you cross the street!
We had a coffee break in a boulangerie after I confirmed that yes, they had coffee and toilets! It was extremely cheap, just over 3 euros for 2 cups of cafe au lait. In Europe, many shops only have one staff person on duty at one time. This is contrary to police who seem to go about in huge groups. Vans of them roll by. Other vans are stopped and inside are police filling in forms. Today we did see one police car on its own and it almost forced us off the crosswalk although it was our right of way. We figured it must have been lonely and trying to find the rest of its group. Richard proposes that the police here need donut shops in which to congregate.
By the time we got to Hotel de Ville, the rain got much heavier. It has been raining on and off for the last two days but with our jackets and my trusty umbrella and a little judicious cafe sitting, we have been fine. However, we decided to duck into the Metro. At Bastille, the gutters were like rivers and still it rains! After our two snacks and my duck lunch, we weren’t very hungry so we went to Flo Prestige, traiteur, near Bastille and bought volailles with morilles, just ready for reheating.
Tomorrow we have to be up early for our TGV train to Tours. I am hoping that it rains itself out overnight.
Day 18 Loire valley excursion
Yesterday we took the TGV from Montparnasse to Tours - just about 1 hour (on our Eurail pass, 3 euros reservation fee each seat for each way for a total 12). We had booked with Acco-Dispo Tours (http://www.accodispo-tours.com) because it was well recommended on Rick Steves’ bulletin board and I can see why. Pascal and the driver of the second van, Marcel were friendly and competent, the commentary (Pascal ad-libbing through the car radio from the other van) was useful and amusing, the selection of sites was very good and the time allotted to each destination was just about right.
We met Pascal just across the street from the Tours train station at the tourist information office. He had already picked up some passengers who were staying in Amboise. One man in our van was along for his second day. Our itinerary: Azay Le Rideau, Villandry gardens, lunch in Tours on our own, Chenonceau, Amboise, Le Close Luce in Amboise and a wine tasting in the bottom of the Amboise castle - a full day!
Just a bit about the tour - our itinerary cost 37 euros each with discounts at all sites except Chenonceau bringing the effective cost to about 30 euros. It is not a “tour” but a shuttle service. On the drive, Pascal gave us some history of the building we were about to see; the van brought us to a site, as close to the ticket booth as possible; Pascal escorted us through the ticket buying in order to get us the discount; then he told us when and where we needed to be for pickup. And then we were on our own. Each van held a maximum of 8 people and we were two vans. Commentary is available in English, French and German. Other languages are available by tape. In our van, Marcel played Japanese tapes for some young women after the English commentaries by Pascal. Some variation to the itinerary was made for those staying in Amboise - they were scooted off to another site because they could see Clos Luce and Amboise on their own. Hey, it worked! and well. Richard and I would heartily recommend this type of service and Acco-Dispo in particular.
Azay Le Rideau
Our first destination was a very romantic building with fairy-tale turrets. The inside was fairly small but interesting with state and private apartments and then some 19th century rooms (kitchen, billiard room, etc.). It repaid walking in the grounds - lovely reflections of the chateau in the moat.
Villandry
We walked up to the belvedere as suggested by Pascal and at the overlook, the gardens spread below took our breath away. Absolutely stunning. The amazing patterns of low hedges and plants, the SIZE of the gardens! Then when we walked down to look more closely, we could see that the red leaves were of lettuces and the ferny leaves were carrots.... We had been told on the drive about the vegetables but we thought that Pascal had mistranslated a word! But no, it was a beautifully laid out vegetable and herbal garden with rose arbours There is a reflecting pond which wasn’t working - too much wind and too much rain but that didn’t seem to bother the swans. But the gardens were quiet apart from our constant companions yesterday, school groups! If you have been to Villandry, you will know better than I can say how amazing it is. If you haven’t, take the opportunity one day and see for yourself!
We had a quick lunch in Tours and then joined the regrouped tour (some were taking half days only) for a drive to Chenonceau.
Chenonceau is one of those places you know - very familiar from photos, from television programs about history or architecture so it was a thrill to actually see it. They are in the process of cleaning the front so when you go, it will look even better! Chononceau is much more isolated than the other houses we saw but as with Azay, strongly connected with women. As at Azay also, there is not a lot of furniture but it is choice. My favourite part was the long gallery over the river Cher, with its chalk and slate tiled floor and big windows overlooking the river. The room is full of light, even on a rainy day and has such history. The bridge was built by Diane de Poitiers and the gallery was build on it by Catherine de Medici. The two gardens give good views of the gallery and its famous arching supports. We got some good photos, we think. I had to hold the umbrella over the camera so it wouldn’t get wet.
Le Clos Luce is in Amboise and was where Leonardo da Vinci died. Richard and I visited Vinci, his birthplace in Tuscany in October 2000 with my brother Jamie and sister-in-law Joyce so we have seen both ends of Leonardo! In addition to some fine rooms, some purporting to be Leonardo’s bedroom, kitchen, etc. there is a small Renaissance garden.
And on to Amboise, a huge castle within sight of Leonardo’s bedroom window - there exists a picture by him of the castle from his window. It is different from our earlier visits with its defensive structure, built high over the town. A very nice small chapel near the entrance and great views from the towers with wild flowers growing in nooks and crannies. Great washes of scarlet poppies, my favourite.
Amboise itself is a pretty small town of just 1500 or so. A nice central area with shopping and cafes, good location on the river. It would make a nice stopping place for a few days. We were not impressed by Tours, at least what we saw later in a half hour stroll. We decided that the train station was just as interesting!
Our last stop of the our day was a degustation, a wine tasting, which is free. If you are in Amboise, just drop in. With Pascal’s help, we worked our way through several white wines, some bubbly and red. Wine prices were very reasonable and we bought a bottle of Sauvignon. In the next room, you could try pates and other foods. Some of our group bought some - it seemed good value compared to the same products in the shop windows in Tours.
Our TGV trip back to Paris was quick and uneventful. The train whizzes at 300 Km a hour and when it passes a TGV going the other way, the whole train rattles for a few seconds. If you are fast, you can see the other train, but you do have to be fast or it is gone.
When the train staff checked tickets on the train, he said that should have stamped our TGV reservation card before we got on the train. We hadn’t done so because we thought that filling in the date on our Eurail pass and carrying the reservation card was enough. We knew that you must stamp train tickets (composter) but the conductor when we were going to Tours did not say anything about this. Live and learn!
Evidently the Montparnasse area is known for crepes and we thought we would have some on arrival. I carefully noted the suggestion from “Great Eats” , 67 rue de Montparnasse. We hadn’t brought our map book but we checked the area map displayed in the train station. Well, we walked (in the rain!) and couldn’t find it nor any creperies that looked salubrious. Eventually we decided we had to eat (9:45 pm) and chose Leon de Bruxelles, a chain that specializes in mussels. Richard said that his were better than Bruges and cheaper! My pasta was ho-hum but it was just what I needed. Main courses were about 10 euros (unlimited refills of frites, even with my pasta!).
When we got home, a check of our map book showed that there are two streets which intersect, rue de Montparnasse and boulevard de Montparnasse. We had been looking on the boulevard! Ah well, another day.