Ultrasonic Cleaners
Cleaning Minerals


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Introduction Page 2 Page 3

The most critical element - water
The water is the critical aspect of the cleaning process in an ultrasonic cleaner. All tap water contains free air or gases mixed in and the cleaning action of tap water is less efficient when this excess air is present. The idea here is to rid the water of this free air before you start cleaning. Some ultrasonic cleaners have degasser controls, which are suppose to remove this free air before you clean an item. In my experience, this doesn't work as well as the following method.

During the winter, we have all seen bubbles form in a glass of hot tap water. This is that free air trapped in the water, but forced out by the action of heating it. Throughout the year, there is less free air in the water during the warm weather months and much more in the cold weather months. Thus you can use the cold tap water during warm weather, but during the winter months, I fill gallon jugs with the hottest tap water I have (150 degrees), dislodge the bubbles in the jug, cap it and then let it cool down for 24 hours before use. You can also do the same by boiling the water or even run the water through a drip coffee machine. Make sure the bottles are capped tightly or the water will absorb free air again like a sponge.

Once you notice the cleaning activity slowing down and/or the water becomes dirty, change the water completely. Some muds (micaceous type especially) quickly decrease the cleaning activity and the water must be changed more frequently. Plus if loosened fragments of mud and rock fall onto the bottom of the tank, these will also decrease the activity.
Other chemicals
Do not use acids directly in an ultrasonic cleaner. It does work, but in time the acid will effect the cleaner tank itself. Use a beaker to hold the acid and suspend the beaker in the tank of water, without touching the bottom. The sound will travel from the water, through the beaker, into the acid and clean the specimens.

You can use soaps or surfactants in the water directly, but a very small amount goes a long way. Too much will decrease the cleaners activity. I sometimes use Tilex Soap Scum Cleaner on specimens and it will improve the removal of muds. Use one tiny drop only on a specimen or dilute in water to soak the specimens in, before using the ultrasonic cleaner. Either way, let the specimen stand in the air for a few minutes after adding this cleaner - let the cleaner work. The cleaning action improves with this air time. Once any specimen is treated in chemicals or acids, fully rinsed and stabilized, then use the ultrasonic cleaner for a final clean.
Extra equipment to use
A long pair of metal tweezers or tongs are invaluable for cleaning small specimens. When using them to hold a specimen in the tanks water, don't make allot of sudden moves. Move the specimen around to find the best cleaning position in the tank and turn the specimen over and around within the same spot. You will see the dirt boil off the specimen easily at first and then you must rotate the specimen in all angles to make sure every position is achieved. Towards the end of the cleaning cycles, the cleaning action is slower and only one side will show the cleaning action. As the water becomes dirty, the cleaning action slows quickly. There reaches a point when you must replace the water with new. You will note also that what you thought was clean is still dirty and when placed in new water, the cleaning action is active again. So clean your specimens in more then one tank of water.
Experience with a particular Ultrasonic Cleaner is the best teacher. Almost every unit will have its own sweat spot of optimum cleaning action, its own best level of water used and how much soap if any the water will tolerate. Practice with different methods of obtaining your water for use - the water's mineral content, free air, interaction with certain soaps all make a difference.

Introduction Page 2 Page 3

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