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Many 1/32 Carrera slot cars
nowadays, come equipped with running headlights and front lights,
unfortunately, the intensity of these lights will vary with throttle as they
are not regulated. They also do not include the much sought after “permanent”
light effect, i.e. the lights will turn off as soon as power is removed (for
example, in case of a deslot).
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It turns out that the Simple Light kit from SlotTronics (part
number SLK-0002) has the same width as the Carrera board, although it has a
smaller overall footprint.
Regular light kits from SlotTronics
come standard with all the LEDs pre-wired such that there is no soldering
required by the users to insert them in their cars. In the case of this
upgrade, the kit with no LED is selected as the LED’s already mounted in your
Carrera car will be used for the job. Of course it is always possible to use
the standard kit with all LEDs pre-wired and simply replace the Carrera LEDs.
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The SlotTronics light
kit offers light regulation (i.e. light intensity does not vary with throttle)
and “permanent” lighting through the use of a button gold capacitor.
Thus, using the LEDs
from the Carrera cars and simply replacing the small electronic board with a
SlotTronics light kit will get you a more pleasing car in terms of lighting.
The only drawback to
this modification, is that it will force you to remove the direction switch
located at the bottom of the car and thus, you will lose the ability to flip
that switch to change the direction of travel of the cars.
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The following
modifications require desoldering and soldering skills as well as a basic
understanding of wiring DC voltage.
For small electronics
work like this, you need a good “fine tip” soldering iron as shown below. The
wet sponge is very important and you should use it after every solder joint you
make.
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I also highly recommend
the use of flux, like the one shown below. This will really help you making good
solder joints. I like the paste as all you need to do is dip the tip of wires
or electronic components in that paste before tinning (applying solder to the
wire or pin).

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First, take out the
chassis screw from your car and open it up as shown below. In this case, you
are looking at the chassis of a 206 Peugeot WRC. Notice the small electronics
board mounted over the front axle in this car. The location of this board will
vary depending on the car (for example it is located about mid-car in the
Ferrari 575) but the technique described here would be exactly the same.

Take the front LEDs out of
their little socket and remove the small electronics board such that the
backside can be accessed. Depending on the cars, loosening the small board
might require the use of a tool (e.g. screwdriver) as the board might be
secured to the chassis through a small plastic peg.

Using the soldering
iron, desolder the 4 wires for the front LEDs. So that you do not lose them,
replace the now loose front LEDs in their holder. Desoldering the wires is very
simple; just heat the solder on the back of the board while pulling on the wires
from the other side.

Now, desolder the rear
LEDs and the two power wires that come from the direction switch on the car.

Next, remove the
direction switch from the car, as you will not need it any longer when
performing this modification. Use wire cutters to cut off the molded plastic
that holds it in place.
Note: the switch
could actually be left in place and used to turn on or off the lights in the
car, providing even more versatility for daytime vs. nighttime racing. In this
case you would have to connect the wires from the motor (that should go to the
light kit) to the two pins on one side of the switch and then the middle pins
of the switch to the light kit.

Next take your
SlotTronics light kit. If you have one with the adhesive backing, you might
want to remove that backing or keep it to secure the board in place.

Before installing the
SlotTronics light kit, cut off the small plastic peg (if present) that used to
hold the Carrera light kit in place.

Just slide in place the
SlotTronics light kit.

Solder in the front and
rear LEDs, making sure to connect the red wires to the square pads and the
black or white wires to the circular pads on the SlotTronics board. The rear
LEDs connect to the set of four pads located immediately next to the button
capacitor. The front LEDs need to be connected to the other set of four pads.

Solder the two wires
coming from the braids to the corresponding motor wires (red to red, black to
black) right at the small inductors (the green electronics components with color
rings on them mounted on the motor).
Verify that when looking
from the top, the black wire coming from the right braid (when looking down at
the car and towards the front) and that the red wire is coming from the left
braid. If the two colors are reversed, then, reverse them also from what is
said in the next paragraph.
Finally connect the two
wires coming from the motors to the two pads on the electronics board. Make
sure to connect the black wire to the square pad and the red wire to the
circular pad *you might have to reverse this depending on which braid these
wires are coming from). The square pad on the board should connect to the
positive voltage, the circular one should be ground.

That’s it; you now have
“permanent” lights that will not vary in intensity with throttle. If needed,
you should then use your favorite hot glue (or equivalent) to secure the board
and the wires to the chassis.
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As can be seen from the
picture above, some cars tend to have a lot of “light leakage” (see the rear
picture of the car). One way to circumvent this is to put 1/8 heat shrink
around most of the LED, leaving only the tip of the LED exposed and mount it
back in place. This will cut a little bit the amount of light from the LED (and
thus decrease the overall brightness of the lighting) but it will provide an
overall better look to the car.
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Last Update: 8/19/06 Copyright_(c) 2005, Philippe Marchand, All rights reserved Drop me a note