Ranch Design Chassis Kit

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There is nobody out there that supports the 1/43 slot racing segment better than Steve from Ranch Design. On his web site, you can find after market parts of all sorts: aluminum wheels, silicon tires, high-performance rubber tires (in collaboration with KD tires), axles, gearing (pinions and crowns), lexan bodies of all sorts and now a brand new Aluminum Chassis Kit.

·      At only $10 the chassis kit comes loaded with all kinds of components. But in addition to the kit you will need wheels + tires, a motors, and obviously a body. In this example, I will use Ranch Design aluminum set-screw wheels, Ranch Design silicon tires, a G9330 motor (from Electronic Goldmine), and a plastic Chevy SSR body also from ranch Design.

·      After opening the plastic Ziploc bag, the following components can be found:

o    2 part aluminum chassis pan

o    2 axles

o    2 bushings

o    8 screws

o    4 washers

o    1 Guide with braids

o    1 plastic piece for mounting the guide

·      First take the front part of the chassis (as seen on picture below): Using pliers or even better a vise, gently fold the front side tabs. To make sure you have them bent up at 90 degrees, take one of the two axles, and make sure it slides freely through the lines up pairs of holes in the chassis.

·      Repeat the same process for the chassis pan sides. Then, using 2 of the screws, mount the plastic front piece that will eventually hold the guide. Make sure to not over-tighten the 2 screws, then verify again that an axle moves freely through the front holes. It should fall straight off when you turn the chassis 90 degrees on its side.

·      Then, take the rear part of the chassis: Using pliers or a vise, gently fold the rear side tabs and the motor mounting tab. Verify visually, that all tables are at 90 degrees up from the chassis pan.

·      Insert the bushings gently into their rear mounts. You may have to pry the tabs open a bit to insert the bushings as shown. Once again, take an axle and make sure it moves VERY freely through the bushings. Then, using a pair of pliers, tighten gently the bushing mounts so the bushings do not fall off their mounts.

·      At this point, you have actually performed the most critical parts already. Slide the rear of the chassis over the front and using 4 screws and washers, assemble the two pieces at the desired wheel base. Before you lock the screws down, mount your rear and front wheels, your guide and verify that the body just fits right over the chassis.

·      Insert the motor on top of the chassis. Using the last two screws, assemble the motor on the tab.

·      Now comes in some of the tuning. As shown in the pictures below, insert spares between the crown and the bushings/mounts on the axle to make sure the crown gear and the motor pinion mesh just right, not too tight or too loose. To do this, you may have to take the motor out and/or the wheels and rear axles out as well. Once satisfied with your spacers, reassemble the motors, rear axle and wheels.

·      Time for some careful gluing (see arrows on picture). Skip this if you want to be able to take your assembly apart easily.

o    First, drop some very small amount of CA glue on top of the bushings in their housing right at the top (see 1 on picture)

o    Second, drop a very small amount of CA glue right where at the crown gear and the rear axle to help the crown fear not move and not apply too much pressure against the pinion (see 2 on picture).

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·      Up to the guide: Add 2 nuts and a washer (I used what I had in my shop) right over the shaft of the guide. This will guarantee minimal play in the guide and also add weight right on top of the guide and help it stay planted in the slot when running. Procure two soft wires (silicon insulating preferably, very soft). Solder one side of the wire to the motor tabs. The other side of the wires can simply be insert through the openings in the guide where the braids go through (alternatively they could also be soldered).

·      Time to assemble the body. Measure out from the chassis where the body mounting posts should be. Cut them to length so the body fits just right over the chassis when simply sitting on top of the chassis. Place some blue painter’s tape inside the body (this is to protect the thin plastic body from direct exposure to glue). Mount the body posts to the chassis and flip it over the body. Drop some rapid (5 minutes) 2-part epoxy (or some shoe goop, or house goop, JB weld, or any adhesive except CA glue). Once the epoxy is cured, you are done and you have yourself a great no magnet racer !!!!!

 

·      Before you put the car on the track, a little lubing using plastic compatible oil (because of the guide and the crown that are both plastic).

o    All 4 points where the axles go into the bushings and the body

o    One very small drop on the motor axle behind the pinion

o    One drop or two on the guide shaft

o    Add some lithium grease or equivalent on the pinion to crown gear meshing to help run smoothly

This kit from ranch Design is simple and well designed. As usual with chassis kits that are not plastic mass produced, one needs to pay a lot of attention to all the small steps involved in getting the assembly just right, but the Ranch Design chassis is well worth the price and it sure delivers !!!

Last Update: 3/3/2008     Drop me a note