Cervantes to New Norcia
As on every morning on this trip, I got on the
road much later than I had hoped. The good news was that I only had a distance
of about two hours to drive so I was fine to take my time. I was driving to New
Norcia where the monastery I was planning on spending the night at was located.
Seeing I had to vacate the backpackers by 10am, I had plenty of time to make my
way there. I decided that I would go back to the national park where the
Pinnacles were located, and take a look at the beach that ran along the west
side of the park. On my way there I passed a sign for Stromatolites, something
that I thought existed in only one place in Australia. Stromatolites are the
oldest living organisms on the face of the earth. (At least I think they are!)
These it turned out were some of the younger ones. They were only about 1,200
years old, however their ancestors can be found in rocks dating 3.5 millions
years ago. In fact you can thank them for everything you see around you, when
their ancestors covered the earth they were responsible for creating much of the
oxygen that now fills the atmosphere. However when I made my way back to lake
Thetis, where the Stromatolites, there was one major problem they were all
underwater. As you can see from the photo, the rains had raised the water level
far beyond the wood pylons that was the normal viewing platform.
I was just getting ready to leave when
another couple pulled up in their truck. We began talking and the boyfriend
decided to walk out into the water to see just what these amazing creatures
looked like. Well, when you are a thousand of years old I guess you don't have
to worry about how you look, because it turns out a Stromatolite looks just like
a rock. Well at least I didn't take off my shoes to go see
them.
I ended up spending a few minutes talking
to these folks. They were a relatively young couple from Melbourne, they had
been traveling for the past three weeks and were planning on another 10. They
had sold their house, car, and placed everything in storage before leaving.
They bought a toyota land cruiser troop transport (we don't have them in the
US), bought a camper trailer, and headed west. And I thought I was taking a
risk. As we were sitting there chatting, I
saw thing coming out of the water. All I could say was "what the hell is that!"
We walked over to lizard that was coming out of the Stromatolite pond and from
looking at this lizard I think I may have been a witness to evolution. While
according to the Australian couple this was a common lizard in Western
Australia, and found itself under more tires on the road than kangeroos. By
looking at the lizard's speed it was no surprise, it moved at a snails pace.
But it was by far the most prehistoric lizard I had ever seen.
I
left the lake and my Australian friends and headed out to the main road, but not
before having one more new western australian experience. As I was headed out,
I just happened to look out to the left and there on top of the burn was a wild
emu. Now granted it wasn't as if I hadn't seen an emu while in Australia, but
this was the first wild one that I have seen.
(Wild
Emu) I
made my way to the main road and decided to head back to Cervantes for gas
before headed for New Norcia. Anyways, I had no idea how long it would be fore
I would see another gas station. When I pulled into the gas station much to my
surprise a very attractive your lady came to attend to my car. I tried to help
but I could see that she wasn't about to let me. She was a local who had lived
her life in Cervantes. This was the type of girl I would have pictured would
have moved to Perth by now. When I asked her I could grab a quick bite to eat
and she told me of the cafe just around the corner of the building.
Unfortunately I had arrived at the gas station at about 10am. I was too late
for breakfast but too early for lunch. Knowing that I had at least a three hour
drive ahead of me, I decided I would try get something. When I walked into the
little diner style cafe, there was no one else in there. In fact there was no
one behind the counter, or from what I could see the kitchen. There was however
a menu board hanging with all my options. For whatever reason a hamburger
seemed to really fit the bill. At about that time, someone came from around the
back, who seemed just as happy to see me as I was to see her. I tried hard not
to think that I was her first customer in a long time. After a few minutes, my
hamburger was ready. From the outside this looked like it could be one of the
best hamburgers I would ever eat. It was thick, toasted and seemed to have all
the fixin's, but I was about to learn that all the fixin's could be risky in a
foreign country. When think of a hamburger with all the fixin's I think, bacon,
lettuce, tomato, onion, maybe a little relish, or fancy mustard, however burger
took those and kept going. As I lifted bun I was surprised to discover, a fried
egg, some very questionable hard bacon, beets, and some sort of special sauce.
It was virtually impossible to separate any of these items without causing the
whole burger to fall apart at the seems. I tried my best to eat it but made it
about half way through when I just gave up on
it. I made it back on the road and headed in
the general direction of my next stop. I was headed today to New Norcia. New
Norcia is a town that is known for one specific thing. I found out about this
place on the TV over a year ago, long before I quit my job, long before I called
off a marriage, and long before I had any plans to go to Australia. New Norica
is Benedictine Monastery. When I first watched this program and found out about
New Norcia, I thought to myself what a neat place to visit, especially when I
found out that you can stay with the monks, and if you are male you can eat with
them as well. The catch it the monks eat in silence. It all sounded like an
interesting idea, but at the time I just filed in away somewhere in the back of
my head. As time passed by I all but forgot about New Norcia, but once this
trip came together, and the idea of spending some time in western australia
became a realistic idea I remembered the "monestary in the outback," problem
was that I completely forgot the name of the place. Well, you can call it fate
or intervention or whatever, but just a few days before I left for Australia,
low and behold, the same program apeared on TV, and thanks to my Keyword search
on TiVo it automoically recorded. This time I wrote is down and brought all the
details with me. So before I left Perth, I called talked to a nun, and made a
reservation to stay (and dine) with monks for one
night. The drive to New Norcia was going to
be about three hours, which for out here I guess is considered just around the
corner. There really were only two roads from Cervantes to New Norcia, and one
involved back tracking so I took the northern road through Moota. As I began to
make my way inland towards New Norica I began to see something that I wasn't
expecting, color and life. I was after all on my way to the "outback" I was
expecting dirt, dust, and the dry bush country. The rain storm that had moved
through the night before had really brought the country side alive. As far as
the eye could see, the country side was a brilliant green. And where it wasn't
green it was bight yellow. Sure we are not talking tropical, it still is a very
dry part of the world, however, today, and maybe only for today, it was talking
advantage of the moisture it soaked up over night. These fields of yellow
continued and everyone was more brilliant than the last. I am not really one
for flowers but the contrast to the normally dry countryside was amazing. But
here is the funny thing, I later found out, that these beautiful wildflowers
that I admiring so, well turns out they are just weeds. That goes to show you
my green
thumb.
The drive through the countryside was
much easier this time, vs. yesterday. There didn't seem to be as many road
trains as before, and drive didn't seem as long. I did make one wrong turn
thinking I had made my way out to the main highway, when I was actually about
two miles short of it, but what do you expect then your major highways are two
lanes. I rectified the situation and eventually made my way back to the
highway. I made my way north to Moota before I cut back south towards New
Norcia. When I arrived in Moota, I felt like I was on the verge of getting
lost, so fighting the male code I stopped at a gas station to make sure I hadn't
passed the road to New Norcia. When I turned into this tiny little outpost, I
saw two young aboriginals sitting on a bench looking like they were waiting for
a ride. They were definatly scruffy looking but, I am sure I would be too, if
my way to get around western australia was dependant upon hitch hicking. Part
of me felt as if I should offer them a ride seeing I had an empty car, but I
turned into the gas station to ask or directions instead. I felt kinda bad
about that. I went in, bought a bottle of water and a chocolate bar, found out
that the road to New Norcia was about 50 yards away, and headed back to the car.
When I was just about to get back in the car, I saw the young aborginal man
asking a older couple if they would give him a ride. The older man apologized
and refused, even though they were pulling an empty camper. As the aborigal
walked away he began screaming things at the old man, and waving his hands
around in disgust. (I was too far away to understand exactly, but while not
threatening the older man directly, he definitley seemed a little dangerous)
Seeing how he reacted to the old man, and seeing the girl with him looking at
me, I decided I might be the next opportunity and didn't want to be the one who
pushes him over the edge. I hopped in my
little yellow car and left the gas station to head in the path I was just shown
by the lady inside the gas station. I couldn't help but keep thinking I was
being a bad person by not picking up the two aboriginal kids. The way I looked
at it, if I was trying to change my life shouldn't I be willing to do things
that before I would never do. Yeah, the logic is a little fuzzy I realize.
None the less, I was beating myself up over this for quite sometime on the
drive. That is until I went flying by a strange object that was on the side of
the road. At the speed I was going I couldn't see what it was, but for some
reason I decided to turn around check it out. Maybe it was just that I had time
to burn, or maybe it was guidance from above. But when I finally made my way
back to the object I passed, I was somewhat shocked to find what I did. Along
the side of the road, was a small memorial with the name Hayley Dodd. With the
description, XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX. Needless to say I started to think a
little differently about not picking up the disgruntled aborigines that I didn't
pick up. I resumed my drive down the empty
road and made my way towards New Norcia.
It
wasn't to long before I made the turn that put me into the town of New Norcia.
At first I couldn't figure out where the monastery was, where it began, and
where it ended. I drove along side the high wall of a red brick building and
turned into its parking lot. The signs told me that this was the monastery
museum, so I know I could at least get directions there. I entered the museum
and asked the elderly lady at the front desk where I would go if I were staying
the night in the monastery. I wasn't even close on my guess. the monastery was
across the road over a field and through a gate. I was directed to the entrance
which, once I arrived was not exactly jumping out at me either. Its not as if
I was expecting a neon sign over the door blinking "OPEN 24HRS", but it was
obvious that the entrance to the monastery was meant for only those that needed,
or wanted to be there. Now I have never
been to, near, and especially not inside of a monastery, ever in my life. So I
felt as if at any point I could open the wrong door, not kneel at the right
place, or set off some sort of Catholic alarm that all might result in my
toiling the fields for days. I walked cautiously through the alcove entrance
through the side of monastery hoping that I could find some sort of reception
area. I walked about 15 yards in one direction where I came to a set of doors
market private. I turned around to walk in the other direction past what were
obviously guestrooms, where I was confronted by another set of doors which I was
far to nervous to open. It just so happened that at that time an old gentleman
walked out one of the guest rooms. I asked him if he could tell me where the
reception was, and he decided he would show me. Now this was no small feat for
him, I could tell that this man who at one
p
Posted: Mon - September 8, 2003 at 12:24 AM
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Published On: Aug 01, 2004 11:38 PM
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