Sabaidee!   

Last summer I spent four fascinating weeks in Laos with the Laos AdVenture Study Tour. I was thrilled to find out about it at last spring's Refugee Educator's Faire in Sacramento. As the librarian in charge of the Southeast Asian Archive at UC Irvine (which documents refugees and immigrants from Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam who have resettled in the United States after 1975), I was looking for an in-depth experience of Laos beyond the usual tourism. And I was not disappointed!

It was a well-balanced trip, with time spent in both urban and rural areas. We traveled by foot, bus, boat, airplane (including vintage Lao Aviation), and tuk-tuk. We stayed in comfortable hotels, simple but clean guest houses, and, in one of the trip's most memorable experiences, at a home in a Hmong village. We participated in discussions with international aid workers, American Embassy personnel, village leaders, and teachers. We trekked through rice paddies, down muddy roads (and up muddy hills), as well as enjoying the world-heritage sights of Luang Prabang and the sleepy laid-back capital of Vientiane.

One feature of our trip was visiting a wide range of villages representing the richness of culturally diverse Laos. Over the last twenty-five years many villages have been relocated to along the side of the road. Thus, as we made our way north we could observe their daily activities and encountered the omnipresent pigs and cows (who would reluctantly make way for our bus). One village we passed had the spirit or hex symbol, which meant "no entry." Occasionally there were unsettling incidents, e.g., observing the treatment of captured small wild animals. With Peter's interest in textiles, we visited a number of Lao Loum, Mien, and Tai Dam weaving villages, as well as Hmong villages where the women were making pandau. We were guests at a Lue village outside of Luang Prabang that we had to reach by boat: it had a tropical look with thatched houses on stilts and children swimming in the river. We visited the school, a Buddhist temple, and the home of our guide. I particularly remember the children fascinated by Bill's and Tracey’s video and digital camera images, and a pensive young mother with her young baby.

Other highlights included visits to temples, including one in Vientiane (Wat Si Muang) where for a small donation one could purchase a small bird in a cage and then release it for good luck and blessings. I still have the cage and have hung it in my garden. The Royal Palace in Luang Prabang is a step back in Lao history; the small glass mosiacs in the throne room reminded me of the technique of Hmong story cloths. Markets! Every town has a market and they are fascinating! You can buy everything from batteries to beautiful hand-woven textiles, the colorful displays of food in the markets are true photo opportunities. Scars and reminders of the "secret war in Laos" can be seen in the mysterious Plain of Jars and the Pathet Lao caves.

I'm particularly interested in the transnational interactions of overseas Southeast Asians with their home countries. I found evidence ranging from California style graffiti in the ruins of a French colonial building in Vientiane to the sturdy wooden homes found in many villages, funded by overseas relatives. A unique example was an impressive set of stone stairs that led from the Mekong River to a village, a gift from a former resident now living in Italy.

Everyone stayed healthy on the trip by being careful of what we ate and drank, although Peter, being a semi-permanent resident of Laos could and would eat anything. There is no problem obtaining bottled water and Beer Lao! And, I could become lyrical about the fruit shakes in Luang Prabang. I looked forward to my sticky rice and laap, but also enjoyed good pizza, Indian, and French food as well. We consumed lao-lao, not just as Laos' native rice wine brew, but as a way of "breaking the ice" and reciprocating hospitality.

As the oldest person on the tour I wasn't sure that I could always keep up with everyone else. Yes, I usually was the last in line trudging through muddy paths and up hills. However, with the help of my friends, I found I could meet such minor challenges as walking on narrow slats of wood onto boats (I did not want to fall into the Mekong!), and crossing over bridges of dubious construction.

We were also very fortunate to have Tia with us on the tour. He was our interpreter, guide, and friend. He represented the friendliness and resourcefulness of the Lao people. One evening we had dinner at his home, which he has been slowly constructing on the outskirts of Vientiane, and met his family. It was opportunities like this that made our trip to Laos special.

If you are looking for a different travel experience that is adventurous, educational, enlightening, and fun, I heartily recommend touring Laos with Laos AdVenture Study Tours!

Anne Frank