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Hlohovec in Moravia - Hlohovec na Morave


On Monday, May 9, we took the train with destination Hlohovec by Breclav. We left Luhacovice in the rain and arrived to Breclav, where we had to change to bus, in heavy rain.The bus station was about 10 minutes from the train station so we got soaked. I couldn't find the right platform from which the bus was supposed to leave and there was no orientation board. In the shed, where we took a shelter, nobody knew either. People in Czech Republic, riding the buses, are familiar just with their bus and their station. They aren't interested if strangers can't find bus station to a different destination. So I had to walk from platform to platform - there were 12 of them - and check which is the one for the route Breclav-Hlohovec.

Czech train and bus schedules on Internet are reliable and informative. I had all the schedules prepared ahead of time in the US. If I didn't do it, we would have been in trouble. The schedules on bus stations were confusing and frequently torn and damaged. The Czech travelers were of no help and kept the secrets to themselves.

We had no idea, where Hlohovec was.The stay in Hlohovec was recommended to us by our friend in Roznov, Ema. We only knew, it was in southern Moravia, near the Austrian border. We have never been in this region before.

We got on the right bus. We recognized that by the simple fact that the driver sold us tickets. Otherwise, he would have thrown us out. There were some school children and we asked them when to get out because Hlohovec has two stops. When we mentioned the name of our hosts they showed us the way.

When we got out at the Village Office the sun was shining and the pavement was almost dry. We rolled our bags for about half a mile to Garcicas where we were expected by their two daughters because Mr. and Mrs. Garcica were at work. They took us to a small house next to their two story villa for two families. It had a small entrance hall, bathroom with a shower corner, kitchen with a table, sofa, chairs, refrigerator, stove, small range and an electric pitcher for boiling water. These pitchers are in every household of Czech Republic and allow to boil water for coffee, tea, soup in few seconds.


Next to the kitchen was a bedroom with two beds, cupboard, windows on the street, TV and large electric accumulation heater. It was needed and appreciated because the little house was damp and cool. We had it going for the whole week.

After settling down we went out to do some grocery shopping. Surprisingly, some of the food was higher than in Luhacovice which is a tourist town and a spa. Our first impression of Hlohovec was of a clean, prosperous village with many new, nicely built family homes.

Later in the afternoon we walked around the village again and found out that there was a large lake belonging to the complex of six Lednice Lakes founded by the nobility of Lichtenstein who had owned a large estate for 600 years until the end of WW II. It is a beautiful, mostly flat country with many vinyards producing great red and white wines.

In the evening we had a date with Mr. Garcica in his wine cellar. There were large barrels from which we did the wine tasting. He inserted a long glass tube into the barrell and sucked the wine into the belly-shaped part in the middle, then closed the end of the tube with the finger and filled our glasses. We tasted about six varieties and at the end it was difficult to say what we drank and which tasted the best.

V pondeli 9. kvetna jsme odjeli vlakem do Breclavi a pak autobusem do Hlohovce. Odjeli jsme z Luhacovic za deste a prijeli do Breclavi v prutrzi. Na autobusove nadrazi to bylo asi dest minut a tak jsme promokli na kost. Tam jsem nemohl najit spravne nastupiste a nebyla tam orientacni tabule odkud co odjizdi. V pristresku, kam jsme se uchylili, take nikdo nevedel, a na moje dotazy neodpovedel. A tak jsem musel do deste a zjistovat od nastupiste k nastupisti, bylo jich dvanact, kde se nastupuje do Hlohovce.



Jizdni rady autobusu a vlaku na internetu jsou prehledne a spolehlive. Mel jsem je vsechny pripravene uz z Ameriky. Kdybych to neudelal, tak to byl maler, protoze na autobusovych stanicich jsou jizdni rady strzene nebo poskozene. Spolucestujici vam neporadi, nebot znaji jen ten svuj autobus, se kterym uz jezdi leta z jednoho nastupiste.

My jsme vubec nevedeli, kde je Hlohovec, jen to, ze je blizko Breclavi na rakouskych hranicich. Nikdy jsme na jizni Morave nebyli a Hlohovec nam doporucila nase pritelkyne v Roznove, Ema.

Nastoupili jsme zrejme do spravneho autobusu, jelikoz si od nas ridic vzal penize a dal nam jizdenky. Jely s nami skolni deti, a tech jsme se zeptali, kde mame vystoupit. V Hlohovci jsou totiz dve zastavky, ale kdyz jsme rekli jmeno nasich hostitelu, deti nam ukazaly cestu.

Kdyz jsme vystoupili u Obecniho Uradu, svitilo slunce a silnice byla uz skoro sucha. Tahli jsme za sebou nase vaky na koleckach asi pul mile ke Garcicovum, kde nas ocekavaly jejich dve dcery, jelikoz pan a pani byli v praci. Ukazaly nam maly domek vedle jejich dvouposchodove vilky, kde bydli dve rodiny. Nas domecek mel malou predsin a zachod se sprchovym koutem. Z predsine se slo do kuchyne, kde byl stul, zidle, kanape, lednicka, kamna a maly sporak a elektricky rychlovaric na vodu. Ten se najde ve vsech ceskych domacnostech, nebot se voda na kavu, caj a nebo polevku vari behem nekolika vterin.

Z kuchyne se slo rovnou do loznice, kde byly dve postele, skrin, dve okna na ulici, TV a velka akumulacni kamna. Byla zapotrebi, nebot v domecku byla zima a vlhko. Zapli jsme je a sla prakticky cely tyden.

Kdyz jsme se usadili, sli jsme nakupovat jidlo do samoobsluhy na namesti. Nektere veci byly prekvapive drazsi nez v Luhacovicich, ktere jsou lazenskym mestem. Nas prvni dojem z Hlohovce byl, ze je to cista, bohata a prosperujici vesnice s mnoha zanovnimi rodinnymi domky.

Pozdeji odpoledne jsme se znovu prosli vesnici a zjistili, ze se nachazi na brehu jednoho z Lednickych rybniku, ktere zalozili Lichtensteinove, jejichz rod tu vlastnil rozsahle panstvi po dobu 600 let, az do konce druhe svetove valky. Je to krasna, skoro rovna krajina s mnoha vinicemi, kde se pestuje vynikajici bile a cervene vino.

Vecer jsme meli schuzku s panem Garcicou v jeho vinnem sklipku. V podzemi nedaleko jeho vinice byly sudy vina, z nichz jsme ochutnavali. Nasal vino do dlouhe sklenene pipety s bankou, uzavrel dolni konec prstem a nalil do sklenic. Ochutnali jsme asi sest druhu, a po chvili bylo obtizne rici, co jsme pili a ktere bylo nejlepsi.

 




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