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The Roseland Peninsula has a character very different from the rest of Cornwall. Sheltered from the Atlantic storms it has a very lush character, and with the creeks of the Carrick Roads (River Fal and so on) snaking through the valleys it makes a lovely area for a ride.

The route I've described begins in Mevagissey for no other reason than I was brought up just over the hill in Portmellon. It's a tacky place during the school holidays but away fron those 6 weeks in the summer you can appreciate the Cornish character of this little fishing village. The route itself takes in some lovely (OK, spectacular) little bits of coastline as it makes it's way down the coast to the yachting town of St Mawes before returning through some quiet lanes and pretty villages. If you have a map there's loads of options for making this ride shorter or longer. One word though - bring your climbing legs, some of the hills are short and sharp... and frequent!

  • Total Distance: Approx 90km from memory.
  • Terrain: Hilly.... very hilly!
  • Elevation Gain: TBC (plenty!)
  • Time: depends, 4hrs but you may as well take some time and enjoy a cream tea (or lunch) along the way).
  • Gearing: whatever you like, note hills do touch 25% at times. I use either 39x23 or 39x25 round here
  • Map: OS Landranger 204

Unfortunately the ride starts with a hill... but you have to get used to 'em at some point so here we go....

From the centre of Mevagissey head South up Polkirt hill towards Portmellon... it will hurt but the view of the harbour from the top is nice! Descend into Portmellon, my home village, which consist of little more than a few houses and pub by a little sandy cove. Unfortunately there are more houses now than there used to be.. such is progress I suppose :o(

It's another stiff(ish) climb out of Portmellon up Bodrugan Hill but you then have a couple of miles of (almost) flat road! Follow signs to Gorran Haven, turning left down Bell Hill approx 3km from the top of Bodrugan. Descend all the way into the village until the road has mostly levelled out and keep your eyes peeled for a turning on the right up Lamledra Hill. If you reach the beach you've gone too far, but then again it is a very pretty little harbour so you may as well go and have a look (Beach Cafe here does coffee, buns etc). Lamledra hill is a nasty little climb (you love it really) but you really must make the effort becuase at the top you come to a gate across the road.... and through this gate the road runs along a fabulous open clifftop, known as The Gruda, towards Dodman Point with views of Vault Beach below (this bit of road really is jaw-dropping, I love it up here).

gruda

The road long the Gruda

From here follow the road as it runs along the cliff, bearing sharp right after a km or so to another gate. Shortly after this gate (please shut it behind you) arrive at a T-junction... at which you have a choice:

a) go left here and follow the road all the way through the collection of cottages at Penare and on down the very steep (up to 25%) descent to the beautiful Hemmick Beach. Watch out for sand on the hairpins at the bottom... There's a small stream to ford at the bottom before the long climb back out via Boswinger. Follow the road through Boswinger until, at the top, you arrive at t-junction with a campsite on the left. Turn left here....

b) if you can't face the climb up from Hemmick then take a right at the t-junction and stay on this road for a couple of km until you reach a t-junction (there's a school playing field on the right behind the hedge). Go left here and after a couple of km this road will take you past the t-junction by the campsite in option (a) above.

Now follow the road as it descends past a couple of cottages at Tregavarras to Porthluney Cove. Not as nice as Hemmick because there's parking... but there is a beach cafe in the summer. Note the Caerhays estate and castle on the right as you pass by the beach. Another nasty little climb now I'm afraid, to the village of Caerhays. Stay on this road, it descends with a lovely view shortly after the village. Take the first left after the descent to Portholland, it actually takes you to East Portholland, just before the beach there is a junction that climbs up to the right, take it - the road skirts round the cliff to West Portholland. Follow the road through the hamlet and take the left turn after approx 1km signed to Portloe.

Hemmick

After climbing for approx. 3km turn left at some houses to descend into Portloe. Portloe is another incredibly picturesque little spot, with it's tiny little harbour nestled into the cliffs... unfortunately now blotted with a pretentious and overpriced hotel/restaurant... those with Lexus 4x4s will feel right at home.... (I make no apology for my views!). You can't really get lost here - there is but one road.. follow it through the village and out towards Veryan (going straight across at the 4-way junction approx 2km from Portloe).

Veryan is yet another pretty village known for it's thatched round-houses.... the logic behind these apparently, in inimitable Cornish style, is that if you've no corners then you've no shadows for the Devil to hide in.....).

View of Hemmick Beach

In Veryan ride past the village green on your left and begin climbing out. There's a junction a short way up the hill on the right that takes you out to meet the main St Mawes road (A3078). This stretch descends steeply into a little wooded valley (cafe at the bottom) before climbing steeply back out again (surprise) - shortly thereafter you reach a t-junction to meet the St Mawes road. Go left and follow this road as it sweeps and swoops it's way to St Mawes. It's a lovely bit of road with nice views of the surrounding countryside and, as you approach St Mawes, of the Fal estuary with Falmouth on the opposite shore. Before arriving in St Mawes you reach the village of St Just in Roseland (just after a steep little climb up from the side of a creek). Here you can right turn (immediately after the turning signed King Harry Ferry - which you don't want) in the village down to the tiny church that sits on the banks of the creek, an incredibly picturesque spot. It's only 500m or so down and back out again. Back on the main road just follow the road as it descends to the water in St Mawes. Ride along the waterfront to the heart of the town where there are cafes. deli etc etc. It's a nice spot to pause for a while, watch the sailing, windsurfers etc.... assuming there's a breeze of course...

To leave St Mawes don't back-track, follow the road round along the waters edge before climbing up to St Mawes Castle. Built here between 1539 and 1545 by King Henry VIII, along with Pendennis castle on the opposite shore, as part of a line of south coast defences. The views here of Falmouth and the mouth of the Carrick Roads are lovely. So, continuing (if you can ignore the icecream van..) keep climbing past the castle to eventually meet the road you entered St Mawes on. Go left... unless you left your wallet in the cafe and need to go round again... :o)

Back in St Just in Roseland take the road bearing off left in the village signed to the King Harry Ferry (website: http://www.kingharry-info.co.uk ). I'm sending you down to the ferry not to cross the river on it for this ride but to take a look - it's been voted the most beautiful inland ferry crossing in the UK and is one of the few chain-driven ferries still operating. This road also avoids too much back-tracking. This ride doesn't actually cross the river but it's only 75p return so you could nip across just for the experience. To reach the ferry just follow the road from St Just in Roseland. Easy.

From the ferry then back-track up the climb and take the left at the top of the climb (effectively straight on). Follow this road through Philleigh (nice pub!) to reach Ruan High Lanes back on the A3071 St Mawes road. Turn left here in Ruan without actually going on the St Mawes rd - follow signs to Ruan Lanihorne. After 2.5km (ish) descend into Ruan Lanihorne. The road forks, keep to the right here and simply stay on this road which will bring you along the river to the village of Tregony.

At Tregony turn right just before the bridge over the river to climb up through the village. It's steep to begin with but soon levels out to steady, not too taxing climb. Follow this road, past the school on the right (my old school....!), and keep on it for a further 3km or so from the top of the climb and then take the right turn signed to Polmassick, Caerhays etc. After approx. 1.5km the road forks, take the left fork up a short climb before a tight, wooded descent to the tiny hamlet of Polmassick. At the foot of the descent the road splits 3 ways, take the first of the possible left hand turns to St Ewe. This climbs steeply at first and then levels out as it passes through St Ewe village. Keep straight on this road ignoring the right fork after the top of the village. Very shortly you reach a t-junction (house on the left). Turn left here. Just 2km from this junction you pass the Lost Gardens of Heligan (website: http://www.heligan.com, I grew up playing in these gardens when it was still an overgrown ruin!) which has a cafe and also on the site is Lobbs Farm Shop for wonderful local produce, cheeses, meats etc. After Helligan follow the road steeply round to the right all the way to a crossroads with nice views across St Austell Bay towards Fowey. Turn right at this crossroads to descend back into Mevagissey... and a pasty for lunch!

roseland
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