With a population of around 1.5 million people, the capital city of Tunis is a mixture of different things. Its authentic medina (a World-Heritage site) is a large display of Islamic architecture, some dating back more than 1,000 years. There is also a strong presence of French colonialism, including architecture (and some churches), food and other goods, and the near bi-lingual status of most citizens of Tunis. In contrast to most capitals of Islamic countries, Tunis is surprisingly modern and liberal. Tunis is of mixed identity- not quite Arab, nor African, and not European. Tour through the medina with its many mosques and traditional souks, and you will feel the Arab presence. When you visit the spectacular Bardo Museum or nearby Carthage, you will get a sense of the Roman (and prior to that, the Punic) presence that still strongly influences architecture in the country. Just up the road from Carthage is Sidi Bou Saïd, a whitewashed town with brilliant blue doors and bougainvillea that could easily be mistaken for a small Greek town by the sea.

I lived in the suburb of Tunis called Cite Jugurtha.The area (like other parts of Tunis) was rapidly expanding, with new homes and businesses being constructed all the time. My neighborhood was made up of middle-class Tunisians. Some owned their apartment or house, while others rented. With the exception of construction rubbish, the area was quite clean. Cats were everywhere though. To one side of my apartment was a field, a spot frequented by the local sheep. Kids played soccer on the street or rode past on their bikes. Teenagers liked to hang out by the small corner convenience store or the newly-opened music store. On Saturdays I would make my rounds, picking up fresh produce from the local stands, a few eggs from the poultry store, perhaps a telephone card from the taxiphone place (my telephone line used a pre-paid card system) or the pharmacy. On the way back home I would sometimes pick a few sprigs of Jasmine from a street-side bush to accompany a rose cut from in front of my apartment.

Apartment complex where I lived in Cite Jugurtha

Sheep graze in the fields after a rain in early spring

A Trip to the Medina

Modern Tunis

Our journey began as we boarded the older passenger train in La Marsa, heading towards downtown Tunis. Stepping off the train, the modern city of Tunis awaited us. In one street side shop, men individually bound fragrant jasmine flowers for placement behind men's ears. Road and building construction occurred here as well, just like every other part of Tunis. At the outdoor cafés, men chatted as they sipped coffee or tea and smoked cigarettes. Most dressed in modern Western clothes, with the exception of some women who gently draped a shawl over their heads. I was surprised at
how many skimpy clothes and shorts I saw - certainly not what the guide books described. Along the sides of the wide boulevard Avenue Habib Bourguiba, one could see a variety of buildings, ranging from larger French colonial structures to more modern tall apartment buildings and hotels. Typical of most buildings in Tunis, white was the predominant color,
contrasting against the often bright blue skies. Compact cars waited as groups of pedestrians walked across the busy streets. Along the sidewalks and sheltered from the heat under the building overhangs, men and teenage boys engaged in various entrepreneurial adventures. Some held fistfuls of sunglasses, eager to capitalize on the brilliant sunny days in the capital. Between the columns of a building overhang, others had their shoeshine business set up. A few even squatted behind scales, waiting for customers who wanted to be weighed. Some people waited in line to use one of the several ATM machines. Shop windows proudly displayed their wares, whether it be furniture, clothing, or shoes. At the
downtown movie theatre, posters proudly displayed the current feature starring Dennis Rodman. Shortly before we reached the arched entrance of the medina, we arrived at the governmental artisan store. Perusing through the nicely displayed shelves full of items created in the country, we got a better idea of prices and what art the country had to offer.

The unusually shaped Grand Hotel du Lac was an easily spotted landmark for the modern part of Tunis

The Cathedral of St. Vincent de Paul, with a statue of Ibn Khaldun (great Islamic teacher and philosopher of Tunis) in front

The Medina of Tunis - background information

The medina is the historical and cultural heart of Tunis, giving a visitor an excellent feel for the Tunisian way of life. The Tunisian medina was founded at the end of the 7th century and was the focal point for the city for over 1,000 years - until the arrival of the French in 1881. During that time, most people lived, shopped, and worked in the narrow, winding sections encompassing the medina. The French construction of the modern city brought a dramatic decline in population living within the medina walls, also removing its commercial importance. Today, fewer than 15,000 people live in the medina. In the 1930's and 40's, large parts of the northern section of the medina were demolished in order to remove slums and provide vehicle access into the medina. Now, there is emphasis on conservation and renovation. Although many of the stalls have replaced traditional goods with tourist trinkets, there still are many areas that are very authentic - much more so than medinas in Sousse, Monastir, or even those in other Arab countries.

Through the Medina arch

Upon taking the left main route in the medina, I felt an immediate transformation in my surroundings. The narrow cobblestone street filled with people as they tried to navigate or take a glance at what the tiny souks had to offer. The methodical pounding of the repoussé artisans, exchanges in many languages, and the call of the shopkeepers all added to the bustling atmosphere. Occasionally a man would try to wiggle his way through the narrow crowded street with his cart.

The Bab Bhar (Port of France) was the gateway from the French colonial city to the ancient medina

A colorful menagerie of souvenir items await the visitor

Making our way past the artisan street filled with carpets, ornate birdcages, and a variety of souvenir items, we entered other streets. Some sold spices; others contained leather goods or flowing clothing. The sweet scent of perfume filled the air as we entered the perfumers' souk filled with delicate colorful bottles, a souk dating back to the 13th century. Nearby was the souk of the fez-makers, with some proudly demonstrating the traditional process.

Almost lunchtime, the smell of food ahead was especially inviting. Men chat as they sipped mint tea and smoke the chicha pipe. Too hot and crowded for our tastes, we decided to eat elsewhere. Making our way through the labyrinth of bustling souks, we once again found ourselves back at the arch separating the medina from the modern city.

Over the next few years I made many trips to the medina. During late fall and spring, fewer tourists were there, making the narrow streets much easier to navigate and more enjoyable to stop and experience the sights. Things also became easier as I became more accustomed to the worth of items, where to buy them, and how to bargain effectively- usually in French.

On many occasions I was the invited guest of Pauline and Tony Hocking, a wonderful Kiwi couple who had lived in Tunisia for many years (including several in the medina) and spoke Arabic. Well aquatinted to the area and very outgoing, Pauline knew many people in the medina. As you come to realize, relationships are such a big part of getting things done or getting what you need/want - usually for a much better price. After some good bargaining and general good-will, we usually emerged with some new purchases and memories.

We would also go through the various souks, capturing a glimpse of the important commercial and cultural role the medina once played. With Pauline's interpretation, I learned how chechia hats are made, and sadly how the craft is dying out with the aged hat makers.

The flat roof of a carpet shop provided a wonderful view of the Zitouna (Great) mosque

A chechia hat maker demonstrates how he felts the hat

Read more about the chechia hat making process in the Arts page

In the traditional part of the medina, sections or streets specialized in a particular item. In one, you could find used clothing. In another, you had a variety of stalls that sold kitchenware including couscous pots. Another specialized in wedding items, including candy-coated items, frilly white gift baskets, special-occasion china. The souk making and selling copper pots (also a traditional wedding gift) has been reduced to a few shops as young couples favor more "modern" gifts.

Amongst the clothing would be shops that sold fancy vests or robe outfits. These were worn by little boys on the day of their circumcision.

On several occasions we would stop for some sweet mint tea (with pine nuts, of course) or a coke at a traditional café. If we had really shopped or walked a lot, we would have a typical Tunisian meal of couscous and chicken.