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Tataouine |
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The modern village of Tataouine, about 49 km south of Medenine, is a good base for visiting the ksours in the area. When we arrived in Tataouine for a short break before heading in to the desert, I was expecting to see the setting for the Star Wars movies. Alas, the modern village didn't look all that different from other Tunisian villages. After walking around a bit, we stopped to buy some bottled water and other items for the Sahara portion of our trip. Even though Tataouine does have a ksour about 2 km from the town center, it is not in very good condition. Apart from its name and the derivative Tatooine as used in Star Wars, actual exploring should be done elsewhere in the region.
The Ksar
The ksours, developed by Berbers as a means of storing and protecting their grain supplies from Arab invasions, have been featured in several Star Wars movies. Many of the ksours in the region were built on ancient hilltops. Examples include villages such as Chenini and Douiret. More recent ksours were built in the 15th and 16th centuries by Arab settlers who adopted the Berber traditions. At Ksar Ouled Soltane, the ghorfas (long, narrow barrel-vaulted rooms) are four stories tall. Ksar Joumaa and Ksar Haddada were used in the setting for the film Star Wars. |
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The Berber ksours in the region of Tataouine have been featured in Star Wars
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The barrel-vaulted ghorfas enabled Berbers to preserve precious grain in the harsh environment
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The lunar landscape provided an excellent setting for pod-racing in The Phantom Menace
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With imagination and computer work, the area was transformed into the pod racing bleacher section
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Chenini |
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Located about 18 km west of Tataouine, Chenini is one of the best known of the ksour hill villages. Even during this short drive from Tataouine, the landscape seemed to become more and more barren, making a person wonder how anyone could eek a living from the land. The ksours, dating back to the 12th century, were nestled in the steep terraced hills. The steep location provided extra protection from invaders. Most of the ksours were in bad condition, with the rocks used in construction falling into piles of rubble. Also looking rather devoid of life, there are very few people still living here, as most settlers have now moved to the modern settlement of Nouvelle Chenini.
Eager to explore, I quickly headed up the hill, walking on the small terraces that leads upward. Peeking inside, some of the abandoned homes had a cave room, which had a fenced front courtyard containing one or two more rooms. All the rooms here were quite small. I was especially fascinated by the Berber relief designs covering some of the ceilings. The doorways were all short, with some so narrow that it was difficult to squeeze through. Some of the windows were an unusual triangular shape - no explanation given by our guide. |
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The puffy clouds cast deep shadows over the sparse lands near Chenini
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The ksours of Chenini are nestled in the steep terraced hill
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Architecture of Chenini
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Stones supported by precious wood led dwellers to upper levels in Chenini
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Berber resident of Chenini in traditional clothing
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Pottery lies abandoned in the small first room
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Relief designs revealed in a ruin
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While walking along, I spotted the old woman in the red dress. With her withered tattooed face, large jewelry, and striped red dress particular to the area, this Berber woman seemed to represent the village which was quickly fading away.
After agreeing to a few photo shots, a younger woman appeared behind her - presumably her daughter. This woman wore a long velour-type dress easily found in Tunisian markets. She appeared disgruntled and unhappy with her situation. It is quite likely that she, like the younger generations of Chenini, will abandon the old settlement and head towards more modern towns. |
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