The back sides of the three temples

The temple of Juno appears through the Antonine Gate

View of the site of Sbeïtla

Private bath with mosaics

Sbeitla - Introduction

Little is known of the ancient city of Sbeïtla, known in Roman times as Sufetula. In 646 AD, the patrician Gregorius governor of ancient Proconsular Africa transferred his headquarters here, thus suddenly transforming it into a stronghold of Byzantine resistance. Just a year later, Abdallah Ibn Saad's 20,000 men killed Gregorius in a decisive battle and sacked the city. Many Byzantine remnants indicate that Sbeïtla was a hotbed of African Christianity. Several basilicas and baptismal fonts testify to the strong presence of a large Christian community. Many pagan and Roman buildings are still visible, including the door with three openings from the epoch of Anthonius the Pius (138-161 AD), the large public baths (3rd century), a theatre, Dioclestian's triumphant arch, and three temples next to each other.

Putting on a few more layers to shield us from the strong winds, we got out of the bus and walked over to the Roman site of Sbeitla. As the site is around 50 hectares, we weren’t able to tour it in its entirety in the short time we were there. However, it was quite apparent that Sbeitla was an important, prosperous city for the Romans. The region was an important crossing point area in ancient times, centrally located between Morocco and the rest of Roman North Africa. The ideal olive growing conditions ensured that Sbeitla continued long after other Roman towns declined. Olive oil and golden marble were exported to Rome, while white Italian marble was brought to Tunisia. Sbeitla also became an important center of Christianity during the 4th century.
From a distance, the three temples were prominent in both scale and state of preservation. Unlike other capitols where a niche was created in the one building for each god, this one was split into three temples, one for each god. Prior to the temple area, we viewed the ruins of the great baths. Because the floors were collapsed, we were able to distinguish the under-floor heating system. Like other baths, Driss (our guide) explained that this one had both hot and cold baths to help bathers adjust to the vastly different temperatures between winter and summer. A cistern acting as a reserve for the baths was visible nearby. Fragments of gypsum and volcanic rock were seen on the walls, acting as insulation for the hot water. Due to adequate rainfall and spring water, the area did not have to concern itself for with a water supply as other places had.

Amongst the Roman ruins were remnants of the Byzantines. A Byzantine military fort was partially visible, containing stones recycled from the Roman site. Olive presses, business remnants, and private baths (with a beautiful fish mosaic) were seen. Driss explained that some of the structures were once 5-6 meters high. Following the well-preserved Roman roads, we entered the main complex through the magnificent triple-arched Antonine Gate, built in 139 AD. From this vantage point, the arches framed the upcoming temples, a converging point for the two main roads. The gate opens onto a large paved forum flanked by two rows of columns which lead up to the temples. The middle temple was dedicated to Zeus. The better-preserved left temple was dedicated to Juno and the right one was dedicated to Minerva. Column tops formed as a composite of both Corinthian and Ionic styles were observed here.
As we headed towards the theatre, we saw remnants of pipes in the walls near a Roman road. Driss explained that terracotta pipes were later used to carry water to the citizens of Sbeitla. Unfortunately, lead in pipes and other utensils had been used for so long by the Romans that it likely was one of the contributing causes of Rome’s downfall. Some of the walls were topped off by recent restorations, contrasting with the state of the excavated areas. While it looked neater, the restored areas looked rather artificial to me.
Continuing on, we entered the site of the two basilicas. The Basilica of Bellator was built in the 4th century on top of an unidentified pre-Roman temple. In an adjoining chapel was the basilica’s baptistery. The full-immersion baptistery had its white mosaic tiles recently restored. A beautiful lotus leaf mosaic was visible in front of the plain white baptistery. The nearby Basilica of St. Vitalis was built during the 6th century AD. Although not much of the larger basilica remains, the beautiful baptismal basin was a sight to behold. Left in situ in the ground, the rim is decorated with an intricate floral mosaic in brilliant reds and greens.
Our last stop in the Sbeitla site was the theatre. About 57 meters wide, the theatre is the lowest part of the site. The temples, by contrast, are the highest, signifying their strength and importance. We were told that the theatre had good acoustics. Unfortunately, a busload of kids had just arrived, instantly filling the small theatre with active voices and bodies. The theatre was built in a prime location overlooking the river that kept it slightly cooler in summer. Original excavations uncovered the orchestra pit and some columns, but recent restoration has completed the seating as well.
In the distance we could see the Atlas Mountains. There, Eisenhower and Patton successfully stopped the Germans during WWII. Now back on the bus, we began the journey of 105 km to Kairouan.

Mosaics still cover the large public baths	Baptismal font of St. Vitalis, with its beautiful mosaic decoration	Baptismal font of Bellator