Mountain Oases of Tunisia

On our trip to the South, went to visit the old Berber mountain oasis villages of Tamerza and Chebika. Situated close to the Algerian border in the rugged Jebel en-Nageb ranges, the villages were once part of a Roman defensive line to keep out marauding Saharan tribes. Because the Berbers communicated with mica mirrors, the Romans called it the “castle of lights.” These villages, along with nearby Midès, were abandoned after the region was hit by devastating torrential rains that lasted for over a week in 1969. These freak rains turned the earthen homes to mud and forced the villagers to move to nearby settlements hastily constructed nearby. Due to the narrow, windy roads and rugged terrain, we traveled the 60 km from Tozeur by 4WD. As we reached the parking lot at Chebika, I was disappointed to see the numbers of other 4WD tourist vehicles. We would definitely not be alone.

Chebika

On the way to the old village of Chebika, one could see all the box-like, soulless concrete dwellings constructed after the floods. I can understand why the people were resistant to moving into them. Chebika means “spring” in Berber, named because of the small spring-fed thermal stream that flows from a pretty little gorge down to the pelerine. Still standing amongst the melted mud-brick ruins of the village was a small square building with a domed roof. Here, the imam of the village was to protect the village and warn them of any dangers. He couldn’t protect them from the rains though. Moving past the abandoned town, we continued up through the narrow gorge. Along the way, boys and young men held up mica and pretty stones, hoping for some sales. From the higher vantage point, one could see the likely path of the thermal spring – a mountain oasis of date palms, surrounded on either side by barren mountains.

Tamerza

Further north about 16 km, we headed by 4WD to the largest of the mountain oasis villages – Tamerza. High on an adjacent area, we could see the shell of the old walled town. Near the front of the town was a freshly painted domed building, contrasting against with the devastated brown shells of the mud brick village. Behind the village was the spring-fed pelerine, which locals claim produces the finest dates in Tunisia. Just 6 km from Tamerza, Midès stood high above a dramatic gorge. Only 1 km from the Algerian border, the stunning gorge has been used as a setting for many movies, including The English Patient.

On the way back to Tozeur, we stopped to get a view of a larger waterfall in a gorge below us. Next to the waterfall was a larger tourist shop. Driss explained that the homes in the distance were in Algeria. Above us we heard a military helicopter patrolling the border.

Abandoned village of Tamerza

Waterfall with thermal waters in Chebika