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Once a quiet fishing village, the seaside town of Monastir has been transformed into a booming package tourism industry. The coast is lined with four and five-star hotels, especially catering to European visitors. Monastir even boasts of an airport and golf course. Souvenir shops now fill the small medina, removing most signs of authenticity.

Saturday morning was once again sunny. Prior to our departure, we decided to tour the ribat complex, regarded as Tunisia’s finest example of Islamic military architecture. It is a favorite for film directors seeking authentic Islamic architecture. Scenes from “Life of Christ” and the Monty Python movie “Life of Brian” were filmed here.

Although originally built in 796 AD, the fortress has undergone numerous remodeling. Like the ribat in Sousse, there is a large central courtyard. On each corner is a tower. Slits for arrow shooting and other military defenses were visible. Assorted ramps and steps provided access to the ramparts. One hallway had arched columns, probably taken from Roman sites. Some of the rooms were quite dark and small, while others were of modest size.

Navigating through the place, we found the stairs leading up the circular nador (watch tower), part of the original building. Climbing the narrow stairs, we were treated to a great view (but very windy) of the surrounding area. The nearby port, fishing boats, and beaches were seen off one side. Directly ahead was the Bourguiba family Mausoleum capped in a gold dome, our other destination.

Ribat ramp
Ribat ramp
tower
The watchtower (nador) is the oldest remaining part of the ribat
 
ribat arches
Arches echo in the ancient hallway
View of sea from tower
After climbing the narrow steps up the watch tower, we were treated to a panoramic view of the city and the Mediterranean
       
Bourguiba's Mausoleum
            aThanking the friendly staff and complementing them on the well-preserved nature of the ribat, we headed down the ornamental brick path to the Bourguiba mausoleum where the body of Tunisia’s first president lies in state. The entrances were guarded by friendly uniformed men. Hearing that we were from the US, they began to recite in halted English the political leaders of the US, including Bush, Cheney, and Powell. The inside was quite opulent, including huge marble pillars from Portugal. In one room, photos, clothing, documents and personal items, and a pen from Ronald Reagan were displayed. Judging from the splendor of the place and the presence of street named after Habib Bourguiba in nearly every town I’ve visited, it was quite apparent how beloved this visionary leader was.
Mausoleum
The ornamental brick paths leads to the lavish mausoleum of Tunisia's former president, Habib Bourguiba
 
Melissa and parents by tomb
Melissa and her parents (Jim and Doris) pose for a photo inside the mausoleum
Melissa with guards
Melissa poses with two guards in front of Bourguiba's  tomb
   
 
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Copyright ©2007 Melissa Enderle
 
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