Outer Coliseum

Inner view of coliseum
Note the well-preserved floor

Underground central passegway

Outer arches

El Jem

From Roman times, the region of El Jem has gained its prosperity from its vast groves of olive trees. The first of three coliseums on the site was built around the late second centry AD, with the present coliseum being built between 230 and 238 AD. Although only sixth in size (after Rome, Capua, Pozzuoli, Verona and Carthage), the coliseum is in an excellent state of preservation - better condition in many places than the one in Rome.

After our short stay in Mahdia, we headed west towards El Jem, site of one of the finest Roman monuments in Africa. After traveling over rather dry, flat plains, the coliseum suddenly appeared, dominating over the unremarkable town of 10,000 inhabitants. Now on the United Nation’s World Heritage List, the coliseum, built between 230 and 238 AD, is remarkably well-preserved. We were still able to climb up the 3 tiers of seating 30 m. high. Massive in size, the structure is 138 m long by 238 m high. The intense sunlight cast harsh shadows on the arched corridors and walls comprised of huge light-colored blocks. In a few places, we saw remnants of sculptures, further destroyed by graffiti.Around the perimeter of the main arena, small portions of marble still clung to the wall. Most of the marble that covered the structure was removed and repurposed. From a nearby minaret, the call to prayer echoed and filled the arena. Meandering through the levels and numerous corridors, we headed towards the side where the seating was quite intact. Warmed and relaxed by the midday sun, we ate a leisurely picnic lunch. Just think of what sights and sounds must have been witnessed here by the 30,000 capacity crowds! I then headed towards the central arena. Next, I explored the two long underground passageways used to hold animals, gladiators and others unfortunate enough to be thrust into the arena to provide entertainment for the masses. One of the underground entrances was a wide ramp, likely used to escort the captives into the shadowy passageways and impending doom or glory.

As we sat in an outdoor café enjoying fresh-squeezed orange juice, I continued to marvel at the impressive structure in front of us. It was also a great place to watch passers-by, some walking and others riding bicycles. Some of the men wore heavy brown hooded capes – much like the ones depicted in the Star Wars movies (some scenes were actually filmed in Tunisia). Berber women dressed in layers of colorful clothes, strapping their long sacks over their forehead and down their back. Walking along the unremarkable streets of modern-day El Jem, it was rather difficult to imagine that this was the site of Thysdrus and its splendid Roman villas. Many of the magnificent mosaics which adorned the homes of this city that distributed goods between the coast and the interior are now enjoyed by visitors in the Bardo Museum. After spending some time looking in shops and bargaining for a few purchases, we drove back to Monastir for the night.

White Cloaked Man, El Jem Pastel 34x48.5 cm Note the small tatoo mark on his forehead	Man with Cane, El Jem Color Pencil 35x50.5 cm	Berber Woman, El Jem Color Pencil 34x48.5 cm Dress, hand tatoo, and shawl are indicative of the area