Winter in Bulgaria
Plovdiv
December 2005
Text and Photos by Melissa Enderle
 Introduction |
Sofia |
Rila Monastery |
Plovdiv |
Veliko Turnovo |
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The next morning we took the 10:00 bus to Plovdiv. The double-decker bus was filled with people going to Plovdiv, the second largest town in Bulgaria. Located 130 km east of Sofia, Plovdiv is filled with architectural and historical importance. Remnants of Thracian, Greek, and Roman civilizations could be found – however, much of it was buried by the snow. For lunch I had sirene po trakiski, a tasty traditional local dish consisting of white cheese (Thracian style), butter, tomatoes, peppers, eggs, lukanka, and mushrooms. Refueled, we headed over to the older part of the city, admiring the Bulgarian National Revival architecture from the 18th and 19th century. With the light fading, we headed back to the walking street near our hotel. Every store window contained Christmas decorations, adding a festivity in the air. A young man played the traditional bagpipe, filling the air with its rich, quaint sound. Ready for something warm, we headed over to the patisserie shop next to the mosque. Although the cake was tasty, it wasn’t what Olja had thought she had asked for (the names were very similar). The next evening we would return, enjoying the garish torta, made from eggs, walnuts, and cocoa. |
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Bulgarian Revivalist Architecture After a quick stop to buy a few Bulgarian ceramic pieces with trademark brown glaze and marbled patterns, we meandered over to the old town section, filled with architecture from the Bulgarian Revivalist period. As it was Christmas Eve day, all the museums and Revivalist homes open to the public were closed. I was especially disappointed when I saw that the Ethnographic Museum was closed, as its architecture was particularly striking. We would simply have to enjoy the buildings from the outside. Streets were very narrow and typically paved with cobblestone. Façades were painted in bright colors including yellow, coral, and bright blue. Even the grey-colored ones were very beautiful. Homes from the National Revival period typically contained yoke-shaped bay windows, slender pediments, decorative elements (painted and carved), and carved ceilings. Most were two-storey, while others had a third level. The lower levels of some buildings contained souvenir shops. Here we observed a group of Greeks haggling over the prices. While many of the buildings were marvelously preserved or restored, others had fallen into a sad state of disrepair. We also visited a few churches in the area. The interior of one was quite dilapidated, in need of major restoration. |
 Many buildings were beautifully restored, with characteristic colors and ornamental trim |
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Roman Theatre Amidst the Old Town was the ancient Roman Theatre, built in the 2nd century AD. At one time it seated 7,000. It has since been restored partially reconstructed, used for staging opera and theatre festivals, concerts, and municipal celebrations. The front stage still had sections of two levels still present, including some marble statues. |
 Ancient Roman Theatre |
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That afternoon we walked through the pedestrian streets and explored other areas. An older gentleman played and sang traditional tunes with his accordion. Stores began closing up for the family-oriented Christmas Eve celebrations. In a local flyer, Olja read about a nearby movie theatre that was showing “The Merchant of Venice”. Upon arrival at the theatre, we were disappointed to find the box office and movie doors taped shut. Although we were early, it was clear that there would be no movie showing in this very dark, deserted spot. A brief inquiry from a man at the adjoining café confirmed our suspicions – there would be no more showings that evening. With the city pretty much closed down for the evening, we headed back to our hotel room, watching TV and eating munchies we purchased on our brisk walk back. Not quite what we had wanted, but it would have to suffice.
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Ornamental building detail on the walking street