Small galleries now occupy part

of the citadel

Watermelons, peppers and other

produce sold at a roadside stand

As we traveled out of Belgrade, the terrain changed drastically - from the very hilly city to the flat plains dominating the countryside. On the outskirts of Belgrade we saw a large number of homes that had their structural bricks completely exposed. Jerry (school director) explained that any home that is not stuccoed is considered incomplete, and therefore is not taxed. In Mali, a similar rule was in effect for homes which had their rebars exposed above the first floor.
Framing both sides of the road were large flat fields of corn, sunflowers, watermelons, and other crops. Roadside stands displaying fresh produce such as peppers and watermelons clustered along this main route between the two towns. I always found it interesting that several vendors selling the exact same things would set up their wares so close to each other. Along the first stretch, one lane went north and the southbound traffic had 1 1/2 lanes. The middle lane became a passing lane for either direction - an often precarious situation. Thankfully, newly-completed construction with a divided highway enabled us to travel much more quickly along the second stretch of the trip.

About two hours later, we reached Novi Sad (population 270,000), a modern city situated at a strategic bend of the Danube. Prominent high on a hill overlooking the river was a powerful fortress, developed in the 18th century to hold the area for the Hapsburgs. Although grass covered the tops of the walls, it was obvious that the perimeter of the fortress was quite extensive. With a bit more time, you could tour through the dark tunnels snaking across the area. Cannons and other war artillery stood near some of the structure's moats. As we reached the top, we parked near the museum. In front of the museum was an archaeological excavation in progress. Perhaps some of the findings would make its way into the museum's collection. Perched high on the hill, we had a great view of the city. Traditional terra-cotta tile roofs contrasted with the newer sections of the city. Beams from former bridges emerged from the river, remnants from the bombing there during WWII. New lower bridges were subsequently constructed next to it. In the distance was another bridge, in the process of being rebuilt after being bombed in the late 1990's. Moving around the top of the fortress, we went past a number of large buildings. Art galleries occupied some of the small rooms, but it was obvious that with some renovation, the place would have great potential.

Now back down the hill, we crossed a bridge and headed into the main part of Novi Sad. With the removal of some graffiti and some restorative attention, the entrance would have been quite charming. Lucky to find a parking spot right away, we headed towards the pedestrian street. Bright flowers of contrasting colors beamed in front of the outdoor cafes. Ahead of us were some newly restored buildings in various colors, having all the charm of other European cities. Along both sides of the cobblestone street were small boutiques, restaurants, and cafés. In these streets you could find everything from handmade leather goods to Reebok sneakers to a whole store dedicated to Barbie. While eating lunch at a quiet seafood restaurant, a small band marched by. Full from the lunch, we weren't tempted by the stands of ice cream. Evidence of more restoration was underway in one section of the street. With more funds, cities such as this and Belgrade could be quite charming. Strolling back to the car, we headed back home by mid-afternoon.