Toast cumin seeds and coriander seeds in heavy small skillet over medium-low heat until seeds are lightly browned and aromatic, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Transfer seeds to spice mill or coffee grinder and cool. Add chili powder, sugar, salt, and peppercorns and grind finely. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon spice rub over each side of each steak. Place steaks on baking sheet and chill at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours.

Heat 2 heavy large skillets over medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil to each skillet. Add 3 steaks to each skillet. Pan-fry steaks until cooked to desired doneness, about 4 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer steaks to plates. Let stand 5 minutes. Serve with Salsa Verde and Ancho Chili Sauce.

Notes

Both sauces can be prepared a day ahead. What to drink: Choose a medium-bodied red wine with lots of berry fruit and a bit of spice — Syrah is a good match.

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