Bichon Frise
History and Information
Here is a random sampling of Bichon Frise Facts and Fantasy
that we have collected and will continue to collect and add
those snippets as we go along. We hope you find them useful
in selecting your life friend.
Please also spend a great deal of time at the Official
Bichon Frise Club of America website as a source for all
things Bichon Frise, such as training, feeding, health,
grooming, suggested reading and many more topics of
interest to all dog lovers.
http://www.bichon.org/bfca.htm
History of the Bichon Frise
The Bichon Frise is of Mediterranean ancestry. His
oldest ancestor is the Barbet, or Water Spaniel, from which
the name Barbichon cam, later shortened to Bichon.
Also descended from the Barbet are the Caniche, or Poodle,
and the Maltese. They have certain similarities
because of their common ancestry, but each long ago became
a separate breed.
The Barbichon group of dogs evolved into four breeds: The
Bichon Bolognese, the Bichon Havanese, the Bichon Maltese
and the Bichon Tenerife. From the Bichon Tenerife
came today's Bichon Frise. These lively and
affectionate dogs found their way from the Mediterranean
area to the Canary Islands, specifically to the Island of
Tenerife. They probably traveled as the companions of
Spanish sailors, who may have used them as items of barter.
By the 1300's, Italy had become a center of trade and
commerce and, with the advent of the Renaissance, began a
period of exploration. Now it was the Italian sailors
who returned the Bichon to the continent. In Italy,
the Bichon Tenerife attracted the attention of nobility and
the new middle class of merchants. The dog was often
groomed in the lion style, which was then a popular trim,
but he should not be confused with the Little Lion Dog
(Lowchen). Late in the 1400's, as the French became
enamoured of Italian culture, France invaded Italy, and the
Italian influence spread north. Italian artists and
scholars went north to serve in the French courts and, no
doubt, carried along favorite pets.
It was about this time that the Tenerife or Bichon made his
appearance in France, during the reign of Francis I
(1515-1547), the patron of the Renaissance. His
popularity grew under Henry III (1574-1589). A
favorite Bichon legend says that King Henry so loved his
Bichon that he carried him wherever he went in a tray-like
basket attached around his neck by ribbons. What the
king does, others at court imitate. The pampered,
perfumed, beribboned dogs gave birth to the French verb
"bichonner" (to make beautiful, to pamper). Another
period of popularity in France was during the year’s
of-Napoleon III (1808-1873).
Many artists have included a small curly-coated lap dog or
a Bichon-like figure somewhere in their portraits.
Among the most famous were Titian (1490-1576) of Italy, Sir
Joshua Reynolds (1723-1792), first President of the Royal
Academy of England, and the Spanish artist Francisco Goya
(1746-1828). These works of art help to verify the
presence of the Bichon in various countries.
By the end of the 19th century, the pet of royalty had
become less fashionable. In the late 1800's, he
became a street dog and could be found doing tricks in the
circus or at fairs. The cuddled pet was now on his
own -- and he survived! His charm, his cunning mind
and his sturdiness no doubt enabled him to do so.
Following World War I, a few fanciers recognized the
potential of the dogs and began establishing' their lines
through controlled breeding programs. On March 5,
1933, the official standard of the breed, as written by
Madam Abadie of Steren Vor Kennels, was adopted by the
Societe Central Canine de France. As the breed was
known by two names, Tenerife and Bichon, the President of
the International Canine Federation, Mme. Nizet de
Lemma’s, proposed a name based on the characteristics
that the dogs presented and the name Bichon a polio Frise
(Bichon with the curly coat) was adopted. The
anglicized version is Bichon Frise (curly lap dog).
On October 18, 1934, the Bichon was admitted to the
official registry of the French Kennel Club.
The International Canine Federation recognizes the Bichon
Frise "as a French-Belgian breed having the right to
registration in the Book of Origins from all
countries". The breed is recognized in most of the
world now, but then was recognized in only three countries:
Belgium, France and Italy. It was the development of
the Bichon Frise in the United States that was to bring
about the recognition of the breed in other countries.
At the end of World War I, American soldiers brought a few
of these dogs back with them as pets. Some may
remember having seen them but no effort was made to breed
or to keep records.
In 1956, Mr. and Mrs. Francois Picault immigrated to our
country with six Bichons. They settled in Milwaukee,
where their first litter arrived, sired by Eddy White de
Steren Vor out of the bitch Etoile de Steren Vor. The
Picaults were to eventually meet two Americans, Azalea
Gascoigne, a breeder of Dachshunds, in Milwaukee, and a
Collie breeder, Gertrude Fournier, in San Diego. It
was some time before these ladies met. In the
meantime, each had begun to Breed the Bichon Frise and each
had made efforts to organize with other Bichon
breeders. The Bichon Frise Club of America, formed in
May 1964, was established as a result of their combined
efforts. At this time Bichon enthusiasts began to
increase in number. As members of BFCA, they worked
diligently to establish the breed in this country and to
gain recognition by the American Kennel Club. Smaller
groups of Bichon breeders began to form local clubs under
the guidance of the national club.
September 1, 1971, was a big day for the Bichons and their
dedicated owners. It was on this date that the Bichon
Frise was permitted to compete in American Kennel Club
shows in the miscellaneous class. When competing in
Miscellaneous, the dog receives ribbons according to his
placement in the class but he is not awarded points toward
his championship. Many breeds spend years in this
class before being granted full recognition by AKC.
However, at the October 10, 1972, meeting of the American
Kennel Club, it was announced that the Bichon Frise had
been granted recognition and would be eligible to compete
for championship points on April 4, 1973. Hard work
had paid off and a major goal was reached.
Now that AKC recognition of the breed had been achieved,
the next step was to have the national club
recognized. Although a strong organization existed
already, it had yet to become officially
acknowledged. One aim of a national breed club is to
hold Specialty shows, limiting entry to one breed.
Under AKC guidelines, a club must hold a series of "match
shows". A match show is, in effect, a practice
show. All the procedures of a point show are
followed. Four match shows were held, hosted by local
clubs in San Diego, Atlanta, Virginia and New York, from
April 7, 1973, through October 26, 1975. With the
last match, all the requirements had been met.
Permission was granted on November 26, 1975, for BFCA to
conduct the first Specialty. The first National
Bichon Frise Club of America Specialty, obedience Trial and
Sweepstakes was held on May 14, 1976, and was hosted by the
Bichon Frise Club of San Diego.
The next major undertaking was a revision of the Standard,
that guideline by which all Bichons are judged and toward
which all breeding must be aimed. Following months of
preparation, the Revised Standard was presented to the
membership of BFCA for approval and, subsequently, to the
American Kennel Club. Its current version was
approved on October 11, 1988, and can be found in this
book. The new standard is a more complete word
picture of the perfect Bichon. In the future, it will
be accompanied by an Illustrated Standard.
Since 1976, each local Bichon Club has been given the
opportunity to bid on hosting the Specialty, held in the
spring. Many local clubs now conduct their own
specialties while some clubs hold AKC sanctioned B or A
specialty matches. But it is the annual National
Specialty, which is most eagerly anticipated. Bichon
owners throughout North America attend. The highlight
of the week is the show itself and each seems more
beautiful than the last. There is no sight more
spectacular than a room full of perfectly groomed Bichons
Frises. It is with a great deal of pride that the
Bichon Frise Club of America looks back on the history of
this "small, sturdy, white powder puff of a dog with the
merry temperament''* - The Bichon Frise.
* from the Revised Standard for the Bichon Frise
American Kennel Club Official Bichon Frise Standard
General Appearance
The Bichon Frise is a small, sturdy, white powder puff of a
dog whose merry temperament is evidenced by his plumed tail
carried jauntily over the back and his dark-eyed
inquisitive expression. This is a breed that has no gross
or incapacitating exaggerations and therefore there is no
inherent reason for lack of balance or unsound movement.
Any deviation from the ideal described in the standard
should be penalized to the extent of the deviation.
Structural faults common to all breeds are as undesirable
in the Bichon Frise as in any other breed, even though such
faults may not be specifically mentioned in the standard.
Size, Proportion, Substance
Size --Dogs and bitches 9 1/2 to 11 1/2 inches are to be
given primary preference. Only where the comparative
superiority of a specimen outside this range clearly
justifies it should greater latitude be taken. In no case,
however, should this latitude ever extend over 12 inches or
under 9 inches. The minimum limits do not apply to puppies.
Proportion--The body from the forward-most point of the
chest to the point of rump is 1/4 longer than the height at
the withers. The body from the withers to lowest point of
chest represents 1/2 the distance from withers to ground.
Substance --Compact and of medium bone throughout; neither
coarse nor fine.
Head, Expression
Soft, dark-eyed, inquisitive, alert. Eyes are round, black
or dark brown and are set in the skull to look directly
forward. An overly large or bulging eye is a fault as is an
almond shaped, obliquely set eye. Halos, the black or very
dark brown skin surrounding the eyes, are necessary as they
accentuate the eye and enhance expression. The eye rims
themselves must be black. Broken pigment, or total absence
of pigment on the eye rims produce a blank and staring
expression, which is a definite fault. Eyes of any color
other than black or dark brown are a very serious fault and
must be severely penalized. Ears are drop and are covered
with long flowing hair. When extended toward the nose, the
leathers reach approximately halfway the length of the
muzzle. They are set on slightly higher than eye level and
rather forward on the skull, so that when the dog is alert
they serve to frame the face. The skull is slightly
rounded, allowing for a round and forward looking eye. The
stop is slightly accentuated. Muzzle --A properly balanced
head is three parts muzzle to five parts skull, measured
from the nose to the stop and from the stop to the occiput.
A line drawn between the outside corners of the eyes and to
the nose will create a near equilateral triangle. There is
a slight degree of chiseling under the eyes, but not so
much as to result in a weak or snipy foreface. The lower
jaw is strong. The nose is prominent and always black. Lips
are black, fine, never drooping. Bite is scissors. A bite
which is undershot or overshot should be severely
penalized. A crooked or out of line tooth is permissible,
however, missing teeth are to be severely faulted.
Neck, Topline, Body
The arched neck is long and carried proudly behind an erect
head. It blends smoothly into the shoulders. The length of
neck from occiput to withers is approximately 1/3 the
distance from forechest to buttocks. The topline is level
except for a slight, muscular arch over the loin. Body--The
chest is well developed and wide enough to allow free and
unrestricted movement of the front legs. The lowest point
of the chest extends at least to the elbow. The rib cage is
moderately sprung and extends back to a short and muscular
loin. The forechest is well pronounced and protrudes
slightly forward of the point of shoulder. The underline
has a moderate tuck-up. Tail is well plumed, set on level
with the topline and curved gracefully over the back so
that the hair of the tail rests on the back. When the tail
is extended toward the head it reaches at least halfway to
the withers. A low tail set, a tail carried perpendicularly
to the back, or a tail which droops behind is to be
severely penalized. A corkscrew tail is a very serious
fault.
Forequarters, Shoulders
The shoulder blade, upper arm and forearm are approximately
equal in length. The shoulders are laid back to somewhat
near a forty-five degree angle. The upper arm extends well
back so the elbow is placed directly below the withers when
viewed from the side. Legs are of medium bone, straight,
with no bow or curve in the forearm or wrist. The elbows
are held close to the body. The pasterns slope slightly
from the vertical. The dewclaws may be removed. The feet
are tight and round, resembling those of a cat and point
directly forward, turning neither in nor out. Pads are
black. Nails are kept short.
Hindquarters
The hindquarters are of medium bone, well angulated with
muscular thighs and spaced moderately wide. The upper and
lower thigh are nearly equal in length meeting at a well
bent stifle joint. The leg from hock joint to foot pad is
perpendicular to the ground. Dewclaws may be removed. Paws
are tight and round with black pads.
Coat
The texture of the coat is of utmost importance. The
undercoat is soft and dense, the outercoat of a coarser and
curlier texture. The combination of the two gives a soft
but substantial feel to the touch which is similar to plush
or velvet and when patted springs back. When bathed and
brushed, it stands off the body, creating an overall powder
puff appearance. A wiry coat is not desirable. A limp,
silky coat, a coat that lies down, or a lack of undercoat
are very serious faults. Trimming --The coat is trimmed to
reveal the natural outline of the body. It is rounded off
from any direction and never cut so short as to create an
overly trimmed or squared off appearance. The furnishings
of the head, beard, moustache, ears and tail are left
longer. The longer head hair is trimmed to create an
overall rounded impression. The topline is trimmed to
appear level. The coat is long enough to maintain the
powder puff look which is characteristic of the breed.
Color
Color is white, may have shadings of buff, cream or apricot
around the ears or on the body. Any color in excess of 10%
of the entire coat of a mature specimen is a fault and
should be penalized, but color of the accepted shadings
should not be faulted in puppies.
Gait
Movement at a trot is free, precise and effortless. In
profile the forelegs and hind legs extend equally with an
easy reach and drive that maintain a steady topline. When
moving, the head and neck remain somewhat erect and as
speed increases there is a very slight convergence of legs
toward the center line. Moving away, the hindquarters
travel with moderate width between them and the foot pads
can be seen. Coming and going, his movement is precise and
true.
Temperament
Gentle mannered, sensitive, playful and affectionate. A
cheerful attitude is the hallmark of the breed and one
should settle for nothing less.
AKC Approved October 11, 1988
And if all this sounds good so far, ask yourself these
questions and ponder this information so your decision will
be an educated decision.
Before you Buy Your Puppy
Anyone looking for a pet has to make a number of decisions
first. The most important may be whether or not your
household even needs a pet! A living creature, from gold
fish to Golden Retriever, needs attention and care from its
owner and that owner must have time to devote to those
needs. This article is intended to help you understand the
needs and requirements for the potential Bichon Frise
owner. It will also suggest questions the breeder/seller
should be asking you and the questions you need to ask of
the seller to insure a good fit between puppy and human.
Before you buy a pet, and especially a puppy, ask yourself:
Why do I want this puppy? A puppy is not a status symbol,
it is not an educational tool to teach children the facts
of life, it is not a stuffed animal that can be tossed
aside on those days the family is too busy.
How much time do I have for this puppy? Puppies need lots
of training to make them responsible household members.
Compare them to the two year old child who does not know
good manners, needs potty training, cannot prepare his own
food and water and may not always sleep through the night.
Puppies should not be left alone for long hours and then be
expected to learn all these things in a timely fashion. If
you work all day, look for that gold fish – and then
be sure you remember to feed him.
How old are my children? If you have a child younger than
four, you already have your hands full! It is difficult to
potty train a puppy and a child at the same time. (See
http://www.bichon.org/crate.htm) Besides, little kids adore
stuffed animals and the puppy looks the same to them. So if
they poke his eyes and pull his tail, they cannot perceive
his pain. However he WILL feel pain and may retaliate by
biting. This is not aggressive behavior, it is his defense
mechanism to say "I did not like what you did".
Is my yard fenced? A Bichon can be incredibly fast when he
sees a ball in the street, another animal to play with or
when he is being chased by a child. It is heartbreaking for
a family to lose a pet to a speeding car. An electric fence
is not the answer for small breeds. The electric fence
cannot keep larger animals out because it only works for
the dog wearing the collar. Larger dogs that roam free
often attack smaller dogs. There are also "dognappers" that
capture cute dogs for resale and other purposes. A yard
does not have to be completely fenced. A small area nearest
the exit that will serve to take the puppy outside to do
his business works well. If you have a secure deck (meaning
with a gate and no large escape holes), this may work well
for you. This is essential to successful housetraining. It
must be close and the puppy must be promptly carried to the
area as soon as he awakens and/or as soon as you return
home from running errands. Having an area nearby is
definitely a human need on those rainy days when you prefer
to put the pup outside while you remain inside and dry!
Tying a dog out with a stake is inhumane, unsafe and may
create an aggressive dog!
Am I committed to lifelong care? Having a pet is a
commitment to his care for his entire life. For a Bichon,
this can mean as long as 16-18 years! This means through
sickness, old age and any infirmities that may come with
age. A living creature cannot just be tossed aside when it
is inconvenient to provide the care. Veterinary treatment
can be quite expensive and the annual exam, shots and teeth
cleaning has cost to it. If you are looking for a pet for
your child, who will provide pet care when your child grows
up and leaves for college? Who will maintain the coat and
feed him? Who will soothe aches and take him to the vet on
a regular schedule? These have to be considered.
Questions the breeder/seller should ask you before you buy
a puppy:
A responsible breeder wants information from you before
selling you a puppy. Those questions will reflect the
questions you should have already asked yourself about your
reasons for wanting a puppy. Other questions will concern
the members of your household, ages of children, who will
be responsible for training and care, who is home during
the day. This breeder has put time, effort and money into
this breeding and will be unlikely to place a puppy in a
home that is not prepared to provide adequate time and
attention to raising it. A breeder who asks NO questions
and only is interested in selling has probably not spent a
lot of time in planning for a genetically healthy litter,
has no concern as to how the puppy will be cared for and
may not even know much about the breed except that a Bichon
is cute and desirable and can bring in a large sale price.
By the way, price is never the best indicator of quality. A
good breeder is concerned with the home that will be
provided and prices pups only according to the investment
in raising the litter. This means keeping the pups until
they are old enough to be separated from the litter and
never immediately after weaning at six weeks.
In addition to the topics mentioned, the breeder will ask?
Why do you want a puppy? Why a Bichon?
Have you owned pets before? What happened to those pets?
Were they healthy; did they live long lives?
Is your yard fenced? Are you in a house or an apartment?
How many other pets do you have? Are other dogs
neutered/spayed? Their ages, sex, health and temperaments?
If a local sale, the breeder may ask which veterinarian you
plan to use.
Have you obedience trained a dog before?
Are you willing to sign a contract to spay/neuter this
puppy since it is not a show puppy and not a prospect for
breeding? Do not expect to buy a pet quality puppy and then
have the right to breed this puppy. Every show litter has
pups in it that are not good enough to be show pups. This
may be for cosmetic reasons, such as lighter pigment or
teeth that are not properly aligned. The puppy may not be
outgoing enough to perform well in the show ring. His
measurements may be less than perfect (height, weight,
length) but he will still be a wonderful pet. Understand
that a spayed or neutered animal is likely to live a longer
and healthier life. Trust the breeder to know which puppy
should not be bred and sign those papers willingly when
asked to do so. This is the breeder’s way to insure
good health for future generations of Bichons!
Questions the buyer should ask the seller:
How old is the puppy you are selling? Never buy a puppy
younger than 8 weeks and it is better for the puppy to
remain with the litter until about 10-12 weeks. Some show
breeders will keep a puppy several months before selling it
because this is considered a good show prospect. This may
be a particularly desirable puppy so do not reject it
because of age! However do ask why it is being sold later
than others in the litter.
Who are the parents and can they both be seen (especially
the mother of the puppies)?
Do you have a pedigree showing the ancestors? How many
champions behind the pup? Any in the previous three
generations or are there only one or two that are six or
seven generations back? A champion years ago has no real
meaning if there has not been a champion within the last
two or three generations.
Health of the parents, grandparents and great-grandparents?
A responsible breeder knows several generations and is
aware of the health of the ancestors. To test this
information, ask about genetic screening of ancestors. This
screening is indicated by registration numbers that begin
CERF or OFA. The CERF registry indicates healthy eyes
(renew annually) and the OFA registry (lifetime) is for
orthopedic soundness. A person who does not know what you
mean is probably breeding pets bought from a pet shop or
puppy mill environment and may have no information at all
about earlier generations. These registration numbers
cannot be used unless the animals have been checked by the
properly trained veterinary specialists. IF THE ANSWER YOU
RECEIVE IS "I DON’T TEST BECAUSE MY DOGS DON’T
HAVE THESE PROBLEMS, you must realize that if testing
isn’t done, you do not know if your dogs have
problems.
What shots has the puppy had and who gave them? Will I be
given a record of these shots? How many times has the puppy
been checked by a veterinarian? Name of the veterinarian
who examined him?
A good breeder has a lifelong commitment to the welfare of
pups being sold. This means the breeder will always be
available to answer questions, to give advice on diet and
training and to help place a dog that you can no longer
keep (because of a move, change in the health of the owner
or whatever). The breeder’s responsibility does not
lessen your obligations to lifelong care!
It is worth noting that you should NEVER buy a pup from
someone who "will meet you at the mall" or some location
other than his home/kennel! And be alert to "brokers" who
buy pups from other breeders to sell.
ALERT - there is no such thing as a "toy" Bichon.
They should range in adult size from about 9 inches
to 12 inches at the shoulder and the outside range is not
considered "show size". Any breeder who advertises
"toys" should be suspect and you should never pay extra for
this non-existent type of Bichon breed, which may well be a
mixed breed puppy, regardless of any papers that are
offered with it.
Now that you have the answers to questions asked and have
given answers that the seller has asked, do you still want
to purchase a puppy at this time?
You may have concluded that this is not the right time for
your family to have a puppy. If you feel comfortable with
the breeder who has discussed selling you a puppy, indicate
that you may want to come back later when the children are
older and you have more time. Let the breeder know you have
made this decision. Do not be offended if the breeder
indicates that your household is not ready for a puppy.
Breeders interview many prospective buyers and have an
instinct for which households need a puppy and which do
not. Unfortunately the "for profit" sellers only look for
financial return and will not give such advice. That is why
there are so many dogs in pounds and roaming the
countryside. If you are attracted to the Bichon Frise,
remember that you may be making a contribution to the
future of the breed when you opt not to take a puppy home
with you! You can always make a purchase when circumstances
have changed and your lifestyle is more suited to pet
ownership. And if you do buy a puppy, regardless of the
breed, please be a responsible owner!
Above information Courtesy of www.Bichon.org