Cabinets

Tue - August 9, 2005

dish drawer organizers

Haefele one at Kitchensource
Ikea has one

Posted at 09:51 PM Read More

Mon - August 1, 2005

Mop Organizer

Take a look at this mop organizer : will it work for our narrow space next to fridge? (and can I talk my cabinet makers out of a door for that space??? Let's hope so!) Although my original plan was to have mops and such in that cabinet next to desk... hmm, gotta settle this.

Posted at 10:01 AM Read More

Sat - July 23, 2005

suggestions for lining cabinets

cork liner (protects wood finish if glasses put away wet)
Rationell drawer mat (a bumpy liner from Ikea)
odd lots of wallpaper
that cushy grip liner stuff
"Duck" from Wal-mart (washable)

Reasons: protects finish, soft landing, noise reducing,

Since I'm a little worried that my finishing won't be enough, maybe I should be sure to get some!

Posted at 12:00 AM Read More

Tue - July 19, 2005

Drawer Slide Jig

The jig for installing Blum Tandems is at the bottom of this page on woodworker.com
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=134-840

Posted at 09:51 AM Read More

Fri - July 8, 2005

susans

from here: http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Kitchen_Corner_Cabinets.html

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From contributor K:
Like others, we've done a lot of the above, but over the years we've come up with a solution that customers seem to really like. We call it a super-susan (sounds better than lazy). We've since seen versions of it on the market.

We make our own susan platters, and attach them on the bottom of the cabinet, and on a middle shelf, so they are actually sitting on a platform. We also make the middle shelf/platter adjustable so they can even put large pots and pans on the bottom and whatever on the middle shelf, as height is less of an issue. Nice thing about it is that they no longer have to worry about items falling off the susan, as it has a 1 1/4" side lip (total of 2 1/2", minus 3/4" material and 1/2" recess) and the farthest it can go is on the shelf. The platter is 3/4" maple (sometimes I use 1/2" if stock is low), ribbon around the side is 3/16" solid maple (although it can be any color), attached to 3/4" solid wood front (either splay or 90 degree). The susan is a stainless steel ball-bearing, which is rated at 1000 lb., and the pegs for the adjustable shelves are custom-made solid brass, which go 5/8" into the 3/4" side and back material. If the kitchen is large enough, I usually suggest a splay corner, with a splay cabinet above and an appliance garage up top.

An added benefit is being that the platter is set on the shelf, they can also place items to the left and right of the susan, in the back, that they use every once in a while, so the area which used to be a space thief is now wholly utilized. If you are doing a splay corner cabinet as opposed to a 90 degree, an added benefit is that you can also add a drawer on top.

No poles to adjust or re-adjust, simple installation, great product, great effect.

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Part of the answer lies in the quality of the lasy suzan you install. In high end cabinets, I suggest my own custom lasy suzan. It's three shelves attached together with four dowels close to the edge, with a flat bearing at the bottom and a pivot at the top and no post in the middle. I use rubber plywood for the edging that is about 3/4" higher than the surface of the shelf. They turn very smoothly and are very stable. Very seldom will something fall from the shelves. They are a lot more solid than those plastic or wire lasy suzans. They are also priced accordingly, but clients don't complain when I show them the quality.

I use 2 12" doors attached together with the Blum concealed bifold hinges. They have their own self-closing mechanism like their regular hinges. You can find those hinges with most of the manufacturers of concealed hinges.
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From contributor L:
Here is my solution to the "wasted space" in the corner issue - forget about it! Here is why: Suppose you just make that space in the corner "dead." Now, compare that to a lazy susan - first I have to take away 12" of good, usable, direct access cabinetry from each side. Accounting for 2" fillers, that is a loss of 10" on each face, or 20" total. 20" times the interior depth of 23" is 460 sq.in. So that is a net loss of 3.19 sq.ft. of horizontal interior surface. Then I put a 32" pie-cut susan in there and gain back 603 sq.in* - a net gain of only 143 sq.in. or 1 sq.ft. Since you have 2 levels, that is a net gain of 2 sq.ft. so far - and then you lose 20"** of top drawers, since most of us leave the top drawers out to improve access to the lazy susan. That is an additional net loss of 20"x 22"= 440 sq.in. or 3 sq.ft. So, to sum it up, with a lazy susan you loose 1 sq.ft. of storage space compared to a dead corner. Plus you just spent a bunch of the customer's money for that lazy susan.

When you explain this to customers, most of them get it. I have only done two lazy susans in the last two years, and that was in the same kitchen, in an unusual condition.

My preferred solution to the "dead corner" issue is to design it out from the start. If possible, I run one wall of cabinets to the corner, then hold the other wall of cabinets about 5 feet clear of the corner, giving about 3 feet for access to the other wall of base cabinets. Now we are able to use the corner, have almost the same net usable cabinet space, lower cabinet cost, and a more interesting kitchen design because it breaks up that strong horizontal effect of having the countertops running unbroken all around the kitchen.

Note:
*16"x16" x pi x .75=603sq.in.
**2x (12"-2"filler)= 20"

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Posted at 05:21 PM Read More

Wed - July 6, 2005

desk area design

Like the desk design here (kitchen by "bosche" on kitchen forum) - 6 smaller cubbies on bottom; 3 larger on top, wide enough for 'in basket' kind of thing; then the top level has two flanking areas for magazine holders. Very nice.

Posted at 12:54 AM Read More

Tue - July 5, 2005

nice hardware

like these knobs: "MNG with leaf design"

Posted at 11:36 AM Read More

details when ordering

along the lines of sweeby's comments

-most companies have a "touchup" or "home care kit" get one even if you are buying stain. It should have a few ounces of stain, a touch up pen, a touch up wax crayon and a few ounces of topcoat.

-before ordering stain find out if they are going to ship the stain with the order. If not you are going to pay as much for shipping as for the stain since it is hazardous material. (that is why to get it when you order the cabinets BTW) If you are getting stain get a quart, it is usuall barely a few $ more than a pint. Consider an aerosol can of top coat.

-we order an extra piece of matching solid stock, if available, more useful than fillers

-order at least one piece of scribe molding always

-we order a nice looking baseboard molding (not toe kick) to use on the ends of runs and the backs of islands to compensate for floor irregularities.

-don't forget to order overlays for fillers with Full overlay cabinets.

-don't skimp on molding, allow one extra foot for every cut. If it is a DIY allow for an extra length.

-if wooden drawer dividers are available order 1 or 2 extras, cheaper than having one shipped later.

as to the glass cabinets that can vary a lot by mfg.
Yes always get the interior finished (if that is not standard for glass), BUT
if they have a glass you like, check to see what the difference is between prepped for glass and with glass.

For instance one with one MFG the difference between prepped and WITH a decorative glass is less than $12 per door, to the customer. The finish around the interior of the glass is MUCH nicer when they do it, and breakage is then their problem.

Posted at 11:35 AM Read More

Thu - June 9, 2005

walnut trim?

Since we're going to have walnut pegs on drawer fronts, and since i'm worried about matching the cherry trim to the doors since Conestoga doesn't sell the trim we want, maybe we should do walnut trim! (See the photos on Scherr's site from kitchen forum guy, his are maple+something contrasting, so different woods but same general idea)

Also noticed in Scherr's price list that quarter sawn oak costs less than cherry (not even accounting for upgrade to select or premium cherry) - I wonder if the same is true of Conestoga??

Posted at 10:32 AM Read More

Mon - June 6, 2005

mixer lift? spice tray?

Do we need a "mixer lift" (from Rev-a-Shelf) for that 15" cabinet in the food prep area? Or will mixer go over near ovens?

And what about this spice tray ? Would it be useful for us? Lots of our spices are in fairly standardized jars, but we also have a collection of things that are bigger or in random jars.

Posted at 01:59 PM Read More

Thu - June 2, 2005

Crown Molding ala MomJ47

Here's her description of what she has (view this picture) and how it went up. Do we need to order light rail from Conestoga?? Or get that ourselves same as the other pieces??

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The trim at the top of my cabinets serves several purposes, and it's made of three pieces. The top piece, which is the crown moulding can be bought at any lumber yard, mine is probably the cheapest and simplest, and it goes with the rest of the house. The middle, flat piece is about 4+ inches. Since the ceiling isn't perfectly flat, this piece makes everything look even. The bottom piece, 3/4", which went on first, was an afterthought, the cabinets were a little lower than they expected (??). It is the same piece as my light rail, turned on its side, so the flat end shows, (the other side is actually cut like baseboard, but it doesn't show anywhere, not my style).

They put the small piece of trim up, then the flat piece went on top of that, and the crown moulding went up last. It gives it a cohesive look. There are some other kitchens in the gallery that do the same, and the small, piece at the bottom is a contrasting color.

Posted at 02:27 PM Read More

Sun - May 29, 2005

Cabinet Detailing

Look at this picture - notice the "Arts & Crafts" toe kick detailing, and light rail detailing. Matthew points out that these are inset cabinets, not frameless - not sure there's any way to pull this off with frameless doors. Oh well.

Maybe I should have some of those 'apothecary drawers' in the pantry area - also a bread box and maybe bins/drawers for potatoes or onions?

Posted at 10:15 PM Read More

Sun - October 10, 2004

alternative to tray racks

Economic discovery: ordering a regular 12" wide base cabinet with 1 shelf and no drawer gives you a great space for vertical storage (cookie sheets, racks, etc.) below; and I use the upper shelf at the top setting for storing onions in a basket). Skip the vertical "dividers"; they just take up space.

- Ceiling speakers (conncted to main stereo in living room, with option to play only in kitchen): sometimes I think these are the best part of the kitchen! My carpenter was able to cut them right into my plaster ceiling, and also installed a volume switch right next to my phone jack. great thinking.

Posted at 11:49 AM Read More

Mon - October 4, 2004

nice trim

I like the trim above these cabinets - the very top is similar to the trim in our front rooms, then there is about 4 inches of a flat surface, then a narrow bit that sticks out a little bit.

Maybe I should do a diagonal corner cabinet, with glass, like this one (in the same kitchen as above).

Posted at 08:19 PM Read More

Tue - September 21, 2004

Cabinet Accessories

A place to buy kitchen accessories - kitchenshelves.com (maybe same company as shelvesthatslide?)

Posted at 08:52 AM Read More

toekick drawers
crown molding?
Pantry detailing idea
trash pullouts
Mixing similar cabinet styles
some upper cabinet thoughts
Shelves above Interior Wall Sink
Attaching other doors to IKEA
La Fata possible door styles
door options for Ikea cabinets
Ikea long-distance ordering
beautiful arts & crafts doors
plywood or particle board?
interesting doors from the decore collection
interesting cabinet option - order doors for ikea boxes

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