susans
from here:
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Kitchen_Corner_Cabinets.html
----------
From
contributor K:
Like others, we've done a lot
of the above, but over the years we've come up with a solution that customers
seem to really like. We call it a super-susan (sounds better than lazy). We've
since seen versions of it on the
market.
We make our own susan platters,
and attach them on the bottom of the cabinet, and on a middle shelf, so they are
actually sitting on a platform. We also make the middle shelf/platter adjustable
so they can even put large pots and pans on the bottom and whatever on the
middle shelf, as height is less of an issue. Nice thing about it is that they no
longer have to worry about items falling off the susan, as it has a 1 1/4" side
lip (total of 2 1/2", minus 3/4" material and 1/2" recess) and the farthest it
can go is on the shelf. The platter is 3/4" maple (sometimes I use 1/2" if stock
is low), ribbon around the side is 3/16" solid maple (although it can be any
color), attached to 3/4" solid wood front (either splay or 90 degree). The susan
is a stainless steel ball-bearing, which is rated at 1000 lb., and the pegs for
the adjustable shelves are custom-made solid brass, which go 5/8" into the 3/4"
side and back material. If the kitchen is large enough, I usually suggest a
splay corner, with a splay cabinet above and an appliance garage up
top.
An added benefit is being that the
platter is set on the shelf, they can also place items to the left and right of
the susan, in the back, that they use every once in a while, so the area which
used to be a space thief is now wholly utilized. If you are doing a splay corner
cabinet as opposed to a 90 degree, an added benefit is that you can also add a
drawer on top.
No poles to adjust or
re-adjust, simple installation, great product, great effect.
----------------
Part
of the answer lies in the quality of the lasy suzan you install. In high end
cabinets, I suggest my own custom lasy suzan. It's three shelves attached
together with four dowels close to the edge, with a flat bearing at the bottom
and a pivot at the top and no post in the middle. I use rubber plywood for the
edging that is about 3/4" higher than the surface of the shelf. They turn very
smoothly and are very stable. Very seldom will something fall from the shelves.
They are a lot more solid than those plastic or wire lasy suzans. They are also
priced accordingly, but clients don't complain when I show them the
quality.
I use 2 12" doors attached
together with the Blum concealed bifold hinges. They have their own self-closing
mechanism like their regular hinges. You can find those hinges with most of the
manufacturers of concealed hinges.
-----
From
contributor L:
Here is my solution to the
"wasted space" in the corner issue - forget about it! Here is why: Suppose you
just make that space in the corner "dead." Now, compare that to a lazy susan -
first I have to take away 12" of good, usable, direct access cabinetry from each
side. Accounting for 2" fillers, that is a loss of 10" on each face, or 20"
total. 20" times the interior depth of 23" is 460 sq.in. So that is a net loss
of 3.19 sq.ft. of horizontal interior surface. Then I put a 32" pie-cut susan in
there and gain back 603 sq.in* - a net gain of only 143 sq.in. or 1 sq.ft. Since
you have 2 levels, that is a net gain of 2 sq.ft. so far - and then you lose
20"** of top drawers, since most of us leave the top drawers out to improve
access to the lazy susan. That is an additional net loss of 20"x 22"= 440 sq.in.
or 3 sq.ft. So, to sum it up, with a lazy susan you loose 1 sq.ft. of storage
space compared to a dead corner. Plus you just spent a bunch of the customer's
money for that lazy susan.
When you
explain this to customers, most of them get it. I have only done two lazy susans
in the last two years, and that was in the same kitchen, in an unusual
condition.
My preferred solution to the
"dead corner" issue is to design it out from the start. If possible, I run one
wall of cabinets to the corner, then hold the other wall of cabinets about 5
feet clear of the corner, giving about 3 feet for access to the other wall of
base cabinets. Now we are able to use the corner, have almost the same net
usable cabinet space, lower cabinet cost, and a more interesting kitchen design
because it breaks up that strong horizontal effect of having the countertops
running unbroken all around the
kitchen.
Note:
*16"x16"
x pi x .75=603sq.in.
**2x (12"-2"filler)=
20"
-------------
Posted: Fri - July 8, 2005 at 05:21 PM